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Old 11-12-2020, 05:14 PM   #1
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Bonding

My new to me Mainship 350 has all the green bonding wire to all the thru hulls disconnected. Why would anyone be prompted to do this.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:15 PM   #2
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Some people donít believe in bonding. I am going through my bonding system and redoing it because the PO didnít maintain it. I do like mine bonded.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:31 PM   #3
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These where purposely disconnected at the thru hull and the bare end safe ended with electrical tape. Before I re attach them I was trying to find out if there would be some issue that require this. I can’t think of what.
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:52 PM   #4
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These where purposely disconnected at the thru hull and the bare end safe ended with electrical tape. Before I re attach them I was trying to find out if there would be some issue that require this. I canít think of what.
There should not be any reason to unhook the bonding that I can think of. Personally I would reconnect it. But before you hook it up make sure that there anodes on the hull and shaft, etc. you donít want everything bonded without having anodes in the water to be sacrificial or it could cause some through hull to waste away. Do you have a galvanic isolator in the green ground wire in the shore power? If not I would put one in.
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Old 11-12-2020, 06:32 PM   #5
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There is a reasonable debate as to whether to bond or not to bond. But if the bonding wire is there, I would reconnect it. Also make sure that the engine block is the main termination point so that the prop shaft and rudder is part of the bonding system.

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Old 11-12-2020, 08:33 PM   #6
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I happen to agree not to bond thru hulls, no need, bonding just creates a current flow. Shaft is bonded to a stern zinc, but rudders are not, they do have their own zinc attached. dissimilar metal currents to protect the stainless but not to be a source for stray current flow. Self contained circle.
Shaft protectors isolate the shaft from the engine/tranny.
But each to their own thoughts.

See attached article.
Marine grounding system.pdf
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soo-Valley View Post
I happen to agree not to bond thru hulls, no need, bonding just creates a current flow. Shaft is bonded to a stern zinc, but rudders are not, they do have their own zinc attached. dissimilar metal currents to protect the stainless but not to be a source for stray current flow. Self contained circle.
Attachment 109991
Metals of differing potential are not a source of stray current.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:57 PM   #8
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Metals of differing potential are not a source of stray current.
correct.
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Old 11-13-2020, 10:48 PM   #9
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not to hijack thread but is the green wire going from all the threw hulls the same circuit as the green wire in the 120 service panel?
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Old 11-13-2020, 10:56 PM   #10
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not to hijack thread but is the green wire going from all the threw hulls the same circuit as the green wire in the 120 service panel?
Yes if the green AC ground is bonded to the DC ground which is also bonded to the green bonding wire to thru hulls. Green is a color used for ground wire, unless it is a bare wire or strap
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Old 11-14-2020, 11:47 AM   #11
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A well bonded boat cannot suffer from self inflicted stray current corrosion. That is an advantage.
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Old 11-14-2020, 12:11 PM   #12
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A well bonded boat cannot suffer from self inflicted stray current corrosion. That is an advantage.
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You have my/our attention.
Care to expand this, perhaps with examples of self inflicted.
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Old 11-14-2020, 12:53 PM   #13
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In my experience, most stray current corrosion cases are self-inflicted. In other words, the victim boat is causing the stray current that is causing the corrosion on the victim boat. There are cases of stray current migrating from another boat but they are exceedingly rare.

So, if all of the metal underwater bits are bonded together with a bonding system where each connection is < 1 ohm, no daisy chains, etc. all of the underwater metal is at the same potential. With no voltage difference between the underwater metal components, current cannot flow should a B+ connection be made to an underwater metal component. No current flow, no stray current corrosion.

Note that a bonding system is, well, another system. And like every system on a boat, there is maintenance required to keep the system functioning properly.
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Old 11-14-2020, 01:45 PM   #14
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B+ meaning battery positive? why/how would that occur? Does that cause swimmer's death, I thought it was AC current.
Also I thought stray current was current that did not originate at the boat and is looking to return to origin such as dock pedestal but the return path neutral or ground is open.
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Old 11-15-2020, 09:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
B+ meaning battery positive?
Yes, B+ is battery positive and B- is battery negative that serves as the return to the source of power, the battery, and to differentiate this conductor, which carries current, from the AC Safety Ground or the Bonding conductor which do not normally carry current.

Quote:
why/how would that occur?
Miswiring a bilge pump float switch, chafed B+ conductor touching an underwater metal component, chafed or bad butt splice in the B+ conductor submerged in bilge water, etc.

Quote:
Does that cause swimmer's death, I thought it was AC current.
AC is the cause of electric shock drowning (ESD). The purpose of a bonding system, when installed, is to distribute cathodic protection current from a hull anode to the connected underwater metal components and to protect the boat from stray current (DC) corrosion.

Quote:
Also I thought stray current was current that did not originate at the boat and is looking to return to origin such as dock pedestal but the return path neutral or ground is open.
Hopefully my explanation above will clear this up.
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Old 11-15-2020, 09:58 AM   #16
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ok I'm a little worried now . my boat is out of the water it has most of the thru hulls bonded . I doubt it's a very good connection . I have reconnected where it was broken at the rudder stuffing box and where the stainless muffler was.

but there is no anode on the hull .it does have zincs on the shaft and rudder .also I'm planning on researching shaft repair for the next haul out I have some crevice corrosion at the packing.
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:02 AM   #17
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My boat has done fine with everything bonded and no hull anodes. Just anodes on the shafts, rudders, and trim tabs.
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soo-Valley View Post
Shaft protectors isolate the shaft from the engine/tranny.
But each to their own thoughts.

Attachment 109991
does this imply the drive saver is good or bad? for corrosion issues.
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:37 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by CharlieJ View Post
@Soo-Valley
In my experience, most stray current corrosion cases are self-inflicted. In other words, the victim boat is causing the stray current that is causing the corrosion on the victim boat. There are cases of stray current migrating from another boat but they are exceedingly rare.

So, if all of the metal underwater bits are bonded together with a bonding system where each connection is < 1 ohm, no daisy chains, etc. all of the underwater metal is at the same potential. With no voltage difference between the underwater metal components, current cannot flow should a B+ connection be made to an underwater metal component. No current flow, no stray current corrosion.

Note that a bonding system is, well, another system. And like every system on a boat, there is maintenance required to keep the system functioning properly.
Now THAT's clarity. Thank you, Charlie.
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:53 AM   #20
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does this imply the drive saver is good or bad? for corrosion issues.
It means that any hull anodes will not protect the shaft, so the shaft should have its own anode. I do not trust the transmission to be a good conductor for shaft protection anyway so I would do a shaft anode even without a drive saver.

I had drivesavers on my engines but I took them out and put a spacer in their places. With a drivesaver you canít really get a good engine alignment and I didnít trust the drivesaver not to break on itís own and leave me with a problem.
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