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Old 07-03-2021, 05:29 PM   #21
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We are getting prepared to install the vinyl plank flooring in our boat. The plan is to let it float in the galley/lounge area and glue it down in the pilot house where the engine hatches are. A word to the wise, this material will expand and contract with temperature. We installed it on a porch floor (floating) over fiberglass and I fit it too close to the posts. Consequently some joints near the posts have opened up slightly in winter. Otherwise the weather has not affected it and it is holding up well for 4 years now.
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Old 07-04-2021, 06:38 AM   #22
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Was on a new build that had sheet flooiring that had no skid sections as part of the pattern.

On older wooden boats the Holley stood proud of the teak , as no skid.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:17 AM   #23
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I have luxury vinyl plank floors in my house. Super easy to clean. I plan on putting it in on my new to me boat.
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Old 07-04-2021, 11:24 AM   #24
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My latest attempt was with the click-together planks, left floating. Around the hatches I used a metal J-channel from the tile flooring section. They are sized for different thicknesses of tile, and I had to order the ones for the size of my flooring and a suitable color. This avoids cracking and an unfinished look around the edges of the hatches.


I like it so far. We'll see how it holds up. Before selecting the material, I brought home a LOT of samples. Some seemed more scratch resistant than others.
That looks nice and clean. The black trim actually adds to it, IMO.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:07 PM   #25
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That looks nice and clean. The black trim actually adds to it, IMO.
The trim looks better than I thought it would. It's actually a brown, but dark enough that it looks black in this picture. I wanted a lighter brown, but options were limited. I painted the inside of the hatch black, hoping the "crack" would get lost in the shadows. That worked well. I have to touch it up where some (white) adhesive I used to hold the trim got into the hinge side.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:24 PM   #26
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It does look very nice. I will probably go with plain aluminum.
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Old 07-05-2021, 02:12 AM   #27
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My latest attempt was with the click-together planks, left floating. Around the hatches I used a metal J-channel from the tile flooring section. They are sized for different thicknesses of tile, and I had to order the ones for the size of my flooring and a suitable color. This avoids cracking and an unfinished look around the edges of the hatches.


I like it so far. We'll see how it holds up. Before selecting the material, I brought home a LOT of samples. Some seemed more scratch resistant than others.
Looks fantastic.

Just so Im clear, are the "planks" wood laminate on a mdf type substrate or vinyl on synthetic (the "hybrid" flooring I mentioned earlier).

It seems the terminology is different for USA vs Australia.

Thanks
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Old 07-05-2021, 07:24 AM   #28
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It does look very nice. I will probably go with plain aluminum.
For the record, that was my first choice. I was out-voted on that one. But I'm very happy with how it came out anyway.

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Looks fantastic.

Just so Im clear, are the "planks" wood laminate on a mdf type substrate or vinyl on synthetic (the "hybrid" flooring I mentioned earlier).

It seems the terminology is different for USA vs Australia.
Not sure. The ones we ended up going with are three layers, all synthetic materials. We looked at one where the top layer was real wood, but it was too thick for our application. It did look good. Beyond being too thick, we thought the grain was a bit deep, too. It did cost more, but for something the size of a cabin sole that's not a huge consideration.
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Old 07-05-2021, 08:04 AM   #29
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I watched a French couple on an Amel sailboat install vinyl strip flooring. I don't recall the brand - some sort of Italian product if I recall correctly. They did a nice job installing it with many more curves and fitting issues than a trawler. Last I checked, it was holding up well. But in the end, it's still a vinyl floor trying to emulate something it clearly isn't. 25 years ago when we purchased my Willard 36, it had bright blue shag carpeting. I sourced some teak parquet tiles and installed a more traditional floor. It's of course held up well over the years, though finding teak parquet tiles has become more challenging.

Has anyone ever considered cork for a boat? Seems go have natural qualities that would do well on a boat such as moisture and dent tolerance. If an owner was okay with a non-traditional flooring material, I would think it deserves look.

Peter
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Old 07-05-2021, 10:19 AM   #30
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Funny you should ask...

My latest attempt was with the click-together planks, left floating. Around the hatches I used a metal J-channel from the tile flooring section. They are sized for different thicknesses of tile, and I had to order the ones for the size of my flooring and a suitable color. This avoids cracking and an unfinished look around the edges of the hatches.


I like it so far. We'll see how it holds up. Before selecting the material, I brought home a LOT of samples. Some seemed more scratch resistant than others.
Capt. Tom How did you get the last plank into the J channel on the hatches ? I looked at the channel and it seems you fasten it down b-4 laying the planks. On outside edges no problem, but how do you do a hatch inside where all 4 edges are trimmed ? Maybe I'm missing something. I was just going to use some right angle alum. for trim until I saw this.
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Old 07-05-2021, 10:50 AM   #31
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My plan to do the hatches where all 4 sides are trimmed with the J channel is to glue the 4th side of channel down with thickened epoxy.
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Old 07-05-2021, 12:53 PM   #32
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I am planning to put vinyl plank flooring in my boat as well. It had carpet previously, which I've removed, so the floor is currently plywood. I was thinking of using thickened epoxy to harden the edges of the hatches so that I have a solid edge to work with, and the j-channel to finish it looks like a good option.

The particular product I'm planning to use is are flexible planks that use a 'gripstrip' installation which I've done in several locations previously, it's 100% waterproof and extremely easy to install. It's inexpensive enough that if I don't like it or it doesn't work well, I can just put something different in.

Are there any other ideas besides the j-channel to finish out edges or stair treads?
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:38 PM   #33
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I am planning to use the J channel to finish the edge. This is all contingent on us buying the boat, so far we have had 2 deals fall through. The problem is where the J channel needs to curve. I will make a male and female templates out of plywood the same thickness of the flooring. The problem is getting a smooth curve in the J channel. I plan to make relief cuts in the base of the J channel. Either a V cut or just a straight cut depending on whether it is an outward curve or an inward curve.. Then press the J channel in between the male and female templates to form the curve. We will have about 4 curves of consequence to deal with. Pretty much the rest will be straight lines for the J channel. I will have a lot planks that will need to be bent around curved surfaces on the sides of the base cabinets. These are areas that currently have carpet on them. Most of the J channel will be screwed down but in a few places it will have to be glued down with thickened epoxy. On those strips I will drill holes in the base of the J channel to give the epoxy more area to hold.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:46 PM   #34
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I am planning to use the J channel to finish the edge. This is all contingent on us buying the boat, so far we have had 2 deals fall through. The problem is where the J channel needs to curve. I will make a male and female templates out of plywood the same thickness of the flooring. The problem is getting a smooth curve in the J channel. I plan to make relief cuts in the base of the J channel. Either a V cut or just a straight cut depending on whether it is an outward curve or an inward curve.. Then press the J channel in between the male and female templates to form the curve. We will have about 4 curves of consequence to deal with. Pretty much the rest will be straight lines for the J channel. I will have a lot planks that will need to be bent around curved surfaces on the sides of the base cabinets. These are areas that currently have carpet on them. Most of the J channel will be screwed down but in a few places it will have to be glued down with thickened epoxy. On those strips I will drill holes in the base of the J channel to give the epoxy more area to hold.
You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

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Old 07-05-2021, 01:53 PM   #35
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You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

L
Or, if the cuts along the curves become unsightly, have one face under the planks not above, with the vertical face proving the protection.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:56 PM   #36
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You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

L
Since it will be walked on I would prefer aluminum not plastic. But I know virtually nothing about 3D printing.
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Old 07-05-2021, 02:15 PM   #37
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Since it will be walked on I would prefer aluminum not plastic. But I know virtually nothing about 3D printing.
Example: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/materials/#metals

Scroll down the page they show you metal options.

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Old 07-05-2021, 03:53 PM   #38
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Example: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/materials/#metals

Scroll down the page they show you metal options.

L
Iíll bet that isnít expensiveÖ
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Old 07-05-2021, 05:56 PM   #39
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No clue about this particular one but saw some price example from another and it was pretty cheap comparing to have the same piece made by a metal worker.

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Old 07-05-2021, 06:21 PM   #40
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The particular product I'm planning to use is are flexible planks that use a 'gripstrip' installation which I've done in several locations previously, it's 100% waterproof and extremely easy to install. It's inexpensive enough that if I don't like it or it doesn't work well, I can just put something different in.
I tried a product that I'd used very successfully in a 4 season room. It was a thin, flexible vinyl product that had two layers. The pieces attached by a press-fit grip strip adhesive.

It failed very quicky in the boat and was all removed in less than a year. It couldn't take the heat when I'd leave the boat for a few weeks in the summer without AC -- and that was moderate Socal, not where I am now in Florida. The adhesive failed, the edges curled, and the seams came apart.

At the time the product was sold as TrafficMaster Allure at Home Depot -- but the name Allure now seems to be used on a totally different click-lock product that seems related to what was, for a time, known as Allure Ultra.

I, personally, wouldn't again trust the pressure sensitive adhesive flooring where the only adhesive is a strip where pieces interface. It but me once, bad.

All replaced in less than a year.
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