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Old 03-28-2019, 06:06 AM   #21
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The hose welding itself in place is extra insurance should auto hose clamps rust out.

The hose removal tools do a great job , are quick and don't damage the hose.
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:50 AM   #22
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A heat gun can assist with hose removal. I dont carry a heat gun so I use a hair dryer. Seems to work fine.
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Old 04-01-2019, 02:02 PM   #23
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I've thought about this. My thoughts are to use a T with a 1/4 turn ball valve, to connect a temporary hose, at the strainers and filters to run the antifreeze solution through the plumbing systems. Also, compressed air can be used to blow water out of the fresh water system. It would be nice if boats could be plumbed so that the fresh water system completely drains to one low spot to evacuate the system for storage. This is not always possible though.


Also, good old WD40 with the straw can be worked under the hose edge and sprayed around the hose. Working the hose back and forth will usually loosen the hose from the barb.
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Old 04-01-2019, 02:41 PM   #24
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keep hoses from sticking is easy, I use Rectorseal T plus 2.
Has the benefit of also helping to seal hose to the fitting.

Why suffer with wrecking hoses to get things apart when it is so easy to prevent hose damage. I started using it when I ripped or cracked a soldered fitting right out of a heat exchanger getting a stuck hose loose.
And getting exhaust hoses off risers really meant good chance of wrecking the hose. It was always a pain to work the hose free.
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Old 04-01-2019, 02:44 PM   #25
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As many have said I would stay away from lubricating hose connections. That's just asking for trouble. I would also stay away from prying hoses off with picks and screw drivers. Even if you don't damage the hose, you might damage the barbs which could create a leak. The best method, and I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, is to use a heat gun. Be patient and keep the heat gun moving until the rubber is very warm or hot to the touch. This expands the rubber and softens it up to the point where you can wiggle it off. This may take some time with thick walled intake hoses. For winterizing however, try to avoid removing hoses at all. I just drain my raw water system at the heat exchanger and lift muffler and then pour about 10 liters of pink plumber's antifreeze directly into the strainer (with the intake seacock closed of course) while the engine is running. This will dilute or displace any remaining water. Have everything ready to go when you start your engine so your impeller doesn't run dry for more than a few seconds. Don't forget to fog your engine before shutting it down though.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:04 PM   #26
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Goto Harbor Freight or Amazon and get two sets of picks; small which has the diameter of a coat hanger and large which has the diameter of a pencil. Circle the pick 360-degrees around the hose and then twist the hose. It’ll break free every time. If then it won’t come off the barbs, use a heat gun to soften the rubber. Easy peasy.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:51 PM   #27
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why not just fill the strainer
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:16 PM   #28
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A "hose pick" gets hoses off of barbs easily when they are stuck. And they do not damage the hose.
Absolutely the best way to go! I'd never be comfortable putting any goop on a hose barb with the intention of making it easier to remove.
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Old 04-03-2019, 07:09 AM   #29
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A "hose pick" gets hoses off of barbs easily when they are stuck. And they do not damage the hose.

I wish you'd told that to the hose from our holding tank macerator to its thru-hull.

Took me the better part of an hour (day before yesterday) to get that sucker off that one barb, with hose pick, heat gun, eventually cut-off wheel on a Dremel... and I'm still feeling the bruises and stray cuts all over my hands, etc.

Luckily this was as part of a hose replacement, 'cause the old one was severely mangle in the process -- by the hose pick, even before I went to find the Dremel.

-Chris
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:47 AM   #30
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Chris, that's too bad about your difficulty with that sewage hose, but I have never had that happen when dealing with the really robust, wire wound exhaust hoses and that ilk. Without the pick, it's a cut-off wheel job being VERY careful to avoid damaging the hardware with the wheel.
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Old 04-03-2019, 02:39 PM   #31
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Chris, that's too bad about your difficulty with that sewage hose, but I have never had that happen when dealing with the really robust, wire wound exhaust hoses and that ilk. Without the pick, it's a cut-off wheel job being VERY careful to avoid damaging the hardware with the wheel.

Yeah, mostly I was able to cut the hose enough to expose part of the wire, pull out some of that wire, snip, rinse, repeat...

Gak!

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Old 04-11-2019, 11:03 PM   #32
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Yeah, mostly I was able to cut the hose enough to expose part of the wire, pull out some of that wire, snip, rinse, repeat...

Gak!

-Chris
That I had to do on my stuff box hose. One wire strand at a time and then cut till the next wire. ALmost forgot about that.
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Old 04-13-2019, 06:39 PM   #33
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Thanks for that one Diver.

Bendit,
Does NAPA have “Rectorseal #5” ?


Cannot answer this as I am in Auckland, New Zealand and we don’t have NAPA here.
Our local engineering supply shop stocks it.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:42 AM   #34
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Alco grease . I use it on most remove items on all my boats. It is made for seawater. A proper fitting hose and clam will not be compromised by sliding on with grease. It’s about $25.00 a tube but it’s a must have .
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