Fiberglass Repair Opinion

[mvweebles]

Not sure of scale on dial calipers. But I just had a thru hull installed. This is about a foot above waterline on side of hull. Looks to be around 3/4 inch solid fiberglass.

As an aside, I'm told that one of the discernable build benefits of a MilSpec builder such as Willard is the hull must be laid up in a continuous layup - a single shift of work. Not sure how true that is, but makes sense.

 

[Solly]

I know you can't cheap out on a repair like this , has to be accessed from the inside as well . Just worried about the thickness of the rest of the hull

Not much sense worrying about the hull thickness now. Time for that was b-4 money changed hands.

I don't see any big problem fixing that from the outside. Grind the widest bevel you can on the good glass around the damage and lay up epoxy and glass to fill. First layer bonds to all the area of the bevel. After the first layer firms up the inside will be sealed and the other layers will bond to it. Keep adding smaller and smaller layers of glass until full.

FWIW I'm not a fiberglass expert but I have used epoxy and glass to fit a bow thruster and other odd jobs.
Find an expert.

 

[DDW]

I know you can't cheap out on a repair like this , has to be accessed from the inside as well . Just worried about the thickness of the rest of the hull

It is quite possible to repair from just one side, even if cored. After all they are entirely built from one side. Composite aircraft are repaired from one side - you can't crawl into the wing.

If not cored, the scarf bevel needs to be about 12:1 in white glass, i.e, at least 3" for your 1/4" example. Use epoxy for the repair, much better secondary bond. If cored, the outer skin must be removed further away from the limits of the inside skin damage, repair the inside skin with a 12:1 scarf, bond in new core, then relaminate the outside.

 

[bucketlist1]

Thanks for the opinions . I am going to try to load the new video . This might answer some questions . Video not allowed . Should be on website www.rangertugtruth.com by end of weekend .www.rangertugtruth.com

 

[BruceK]

.... Just worried about the thickness of the rest of the hull

Were it a real concern surely it would be widely known. If not it`s understandable anxiety on your part, but probably not a realistic concern.

 

[bucketlist1]

NEW Video now LIVE . Plays after the old video . Also bigger hull core sample photos on the ''survey '' part of the website . www.rangertugtruth.com

 

[Rufus]

I couldn't find a photo of the boat on the first hydraulic trailer, but will say that the pad lift style trailers are very susceptible to operator error...it's far too easy to inadvertently apply too much pressure on an individual pad during a lift. I banned my yard from using their pad lift contraption on our boat. Made them move the boat to the storage building in the travel lift slings. Ultimately moved to a winter storage facility that has a keel lift hydraulic trailer. I actually sent some written material to ABYC that hilights the dangers of these pad lift trailers (for their ground handling section). Hasn't been incorporated yet. Anyway, a photo of the trailer by itself and one with the boat on the trailer would be helpful. The last owner's tram/railway lift device might also be worth a look.

Keel lift (Hydraulic arms stabilize only...)

 

[MYTraveler]

He did mention insurance on his website. But...

It is unlikely they will pay a claim if they think damage was concealed.

And they won't pay a claim for damage caused before the policy was issued. I don't see the owner's insurer having any liability here.

If it were mine, I would take some core samples to confirm that the inside fiberglass is not damaged. If it is not, I would also take samples to determine the extent of delamination / damage to the coring and exterior fiberglass.
Then, I would cut out the outer fiberglass shell around that damage perimeter, remove all of the coring material and replace it with fiberglass. I would then epoxy the outer shell back into place and feather in the area of the outer shell that is cracked. In that way, 1 -12 will not be necessary. It should look very good and be structurally better than new, though a little heavier.

 

[Lou_tribal]

And they won't pay a claim for damage caused before the policy was issued. I don't see the owner's insurer having any liability here.

If it were mine, I would take some core samples to confirm that the inside fiberglass is not damaged. If it is not, I would also take samples to determine the extent of delamination / damage to the coring and exterior fiberglass.
Then, I would cut out the outer fiberglass shell around that damage perimeter, remove all of the coring material and replace it with fiberglass. I would then epoxy the outer shell back into place and feather in the area of the outer shell that is cracked. In that way, 1 -12 will not be necessary. It should look very good and be structurally better than new, though a little heavier.

This is exactly what was the repair to my boat when my ex marina damaged my hull by badly blocking the boat on the ground.
Regarding the hydraulic pad lift, if the marina know their job and put the pad where they need to be I don't see any issue. Problem is when joe blow wannabees marina owner want to play in the professional league without knowing their job.

L

 

[bucketlist1]

When I get the Lab test results back , will have a better idea . Thanks

 

[FF]

"As an aside, I'm told that one of the discernable build benefits of a MilSpec builder such as Willard is the hull must be laid up in a continuous layup - a single shift of work.
Not sure how true that is, but makes sense. ."

Yes, laying up in a single work day means there need not be glass mat between layers of woven roving.There is mat used in other areas. Hull pieces are pre cut and a workstation is lowered into the hull mold.

Remember these utility hulls may be use as life boats and suffer being bulldozed off the tilted carrier deck , so the fall may be 50-70 ft.
There is loads of foam built into void areas of the hull , so they will float even if holed or broken .

 

[bucketlist1]

FF , i have read that as well about military spec hulls . I also read they use clear gel coat for hull inspection when it comes out of the mold . Then they paint color , after .

 

[FF]

"I also read they use clear gel coat for hull inspection when it comes out of the mold . Then they paint color , after "

Many high end boats do not use gel coat and are simply painted on the outside.

The bilge us left unpainted so damage is easier to spot and repair..