The wiring, the hose runs, the clamps, no hose on the drain valve, perhaps the lack of a check valve, it looks like there was or is leak, etc. Wh, what do you think is wrong with it?
All of the above, plus.
Isn't the pressure relief valve supposed to be on the hot side? Looks like its hooked up backwards.
Also, the tank is failing, check the leak?
I'll probable add some valves on the supply and return side of that loop somewhere close to the engine room. No need to lose my engine because of a hot water heater failure down the road.
All in all it is a pretty rough looking installation. Was it done during the initial build or did an errant owner do it a few years later?
So Xsbank, are you suggesting installing 2 ball valves on the hoses from the engine to the water heater, one on the inlet and one on the outlet?
i am not sure that having failure of the exchanger will disable the engine. Now i suppose it could water down the antifreeze enough to allow it to freeze, which would be bad. i am not sure the engine cares if it is drinking from a big tank of liquid.
It will contaminate your fresh water system with antifreeze...which in small concentrations you may not notice but could still lead to glycol poisoning.
You can eliminate the valves if you use a heat exchanger on the engine, then a failure of the coil in the water tank will not put glycol in your hot water, nor will it cause the engine to fail. Valves would require you to spot the failure in a timely manner but an exchanger will not. Valves just make it easier to isolate the heater, should you need to.
Definitely a dog's breakfast.
My Take
First, regarding the fittings. They appear to be Whale brand. This is a VERY common fitting on boats. Whale fittings are sold everywhere marine plumbing is sold.
There is supposed to be a hose on the pressure relief valve leading to the bilge as per ABYC (makes sense if you think about it ). I believe there should be a hose on the drain tap for the same reasons.
Double clamping is not required and is ill advised as the nipples on these water heaters are too short to support a second clamp. A second clamp would just pull the hose off.
There is no air space under the tank. The insulation is fiberglass batting which soaks up any drips, leaks etc. and corrodes the aluminum tank inside the box. This is the major cause of short water heater life.
I have to agree. An internal leak in the water heater coolant loop would be opposing the internal water pressure of the fresh water system. If the engine is at operating temperature, say 180°, the internal coolant pressure will still be relatively low, perhaps even lower than the fresh water pressure. If a hot water tap is full open, I suppose it could draw coolant into the system, but I don't think it would be significant enough to disable the engine. Any leakage would be dangerous for humans though.
Now, if the coolant leak is outside the water heater, the only thing that will save you is cut-off valves on both the inlet and outlet lines from the engine.
Maybe this is another reason to perform a periodic pressure test on the coolant side of the engine. The radiator-cap style of testers are inexpensive and easy to use. Test once with the cut-off valves closed to check the engine side. If OK, then test again with the cut-off valves open, the water pressure pump off and a hot water faucet open. That should let you know if there is an internal leak.
Just thinkin'
Larry
M/V Boomarang