"Fantastic" Holding tank Additive
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What does your gauge show when the tank is empty?
Maybe neither one...What's the make/version of the gauge?
Peggie
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
OK Peggie!
I've read every post here. It gets confusing as to which best is The Best!
Soooo, as usual, I leave this up to you; our one and only real pro... What is your favorite recommendation to add into seamless plastic holding tank?
Thanks!
Art
I've read every post here. It gets confusing as to which best is The Best!
Soooo, as usual, I leave this up to you; our one and only real pro... What is your favorite recommendation to add into seamless plastic holding tank?
Thanks!
Art
The Other Gary
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I have the same gauge set in my boat. It reads fresh water, holding tank and both fuel tanks.
To calibrate the holding tank. When you know you are close to full page to the holding tank screen, push "C" and the screen will ask you if it is full or empty. Push the up arrow and confirm on the screen.
Then go and have a pumpout and repeat the process.
I don't worry about it not being completely full when I calibrated. It's nice to know you have a day in reserve when the alarm goes off.
Same method for all the other tanks.
To calibrate the holding tank. When you know you are close to full page to the holding tank screen, push "C" and the screen will ask you if it is full or empty. Push the up arrow and confirm on the screen.
Then go and have a pumpout and repeat the process.
I don't worry about it not being completely full when I calibrated. It's nice to know you have a day in reserve when the alarm goes off.
Same method for all the other tanks.
sunchaser
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For those thinking an H+ ion is necessary for sewage attacking metal - Metal corrodes due to dissimilar ions whether in a neutral or slightly acidic environment. Uric acid and solid waste is loaded with or can generate ions that are metal gobblers. Bottom line, uric acid and sewer gas are highly corrosive.
Why I even know of some boaters who add a sacrificial metal to protect shafts and props. Maybe a zinc plate inside a metal holding tank would do some good on sewage, or better yet use a non metal holding tank. As beng discussed in a different thread, coatings do work in metal tanks, but why bother for such a simple application.
Why I even know of some boaters who add a sacrificial metal to protect shafts and props. Maybe a zinc plate inside a metal holding tank would do some good on sewage, or better yet use a non metal holding tank. As beng discussed in a different thread, coatings do work in metal tanks, but why bother for such a simple application.
OP
OP
Codger2
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Add to the above, an external tank level indicator to the tank, such as SCAD. (I don't remember what the original name is but I know that Peggie knows what it is.)
Attachments
Aha...The AcuGage Ultra 8 is actually designed to monitor up to 8 tanks--water, fuel and waste on a single system. If your holding tank is the only one that isn't working correctly, your problem is most likely a failed sender.
AcuGage was made by Snake River Electronics, one of the first--if not THE first--to use senders that go on the outside of the tank. SRE went out of business (the name has since had several owners, none of whom have managed to keep it going very long.) They went out of business after Dennis Ferriello left because the quality had really detoriated and started his own company to make better ones--the Profile Tank Monitors Profile Tank Monitors (also sold by SCAD Technologies under their private label brand name). Their components are "plug & play" replacements for Snake River...and use the same wiring as the SeaLand TankWatch monitors
Call Dennis...he'll know exactly what you have and what you need.
Just saw Gordon's post..."I am thinking your gauges need to be calibrated?" and Gary's reply. That's a possibility, but the age and quality of the Snake River senders point more toward a new sender. Try that first...if it doesn't work, call Dennis.
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This a good one for which to call/order? - https://tankedge.com/products.html
By watching videos... I've found fairly time consuming installation needs as well as inserts required for metal diesel/gas fuel tanks. That is a basically a game-stopper for where/how our Tolly's two 100 gal gas tanks are positioned. Currently I have quick, simple and extremely accurate ways to determine gas tank levels as well as holding tank level. But, do not have easy access to determine freshwater tank levels... by general knowledge of usage rate cannot recall ever letting those two 37.5 gal tanks go dry. Will admit that having display on wall would be even faster than my way for for checking. However, my check-it ways will never go out of service. Does anyone have a time when the sensors discussed gave error readings or maybe even the display panel stopped working?
Happy Level-Sensing Daze - Art
By watching videos... I've found fairly time consuming installation needs as well as inserts required for metal diesel/gas fuel tanks. That is a basically a game-stopper for where/how our Tolly's two 100 gal gas tanks are positioned. Currently I have quick, simple and extremely accurate ways to determine gas tank levels as well as holding tank level. But, do not have easy access to determine freshwater tank levels... by general knowledge of usage rate cannot recall ever letting those two 37.5 gal tanks go dry. Will admit that having display on wall would be even faster than my way for for checking. However, my check-it ways will never go out of service. Does anyone have a time when the sensors discussed gave error readings or maybe even the display panel stopped working?
Happy Level-Sensing Daze - Art
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The one that works best in YOUR tank among those that work WITH nature and not one in which the active ingredient is a lethal chemical. If the ingredients aren't listed on the label download the MSDS for it...if you can't find the MSDS, avoid it.
Obviously you want to avoid formaldehyde, but "non-formaldehyde formula" only means the active ingredient is another lethal chemical--most likely gluteraldehyde or quaternary ammonium compound. If it's not listed on the label, google the MSDS for it.
"Biodegradable" does not mean enviro-friendly either...believe it or not formaldehyde is among many highly toxic chemicals that are classified as biodegradable, which means they do eventually, but not before doing a lot of harm.
Your first clue will be the first aid warnings..avoid products with warnings that say "harmful or fatal if swallowed, may cause blindness, call poison control immediately." Try products with first aid advice like "keep out of the reach of children, wash hands after exposure, flush eyes with clean water, drink plenty of water if ingested, contact physician IF symptoms develop."
If nothing works, it means the tank isn't well enough ventilated, or may be too deep for passive ventilation to provide enough oxygen to keep it aerobic...in which case, aeration may be is the only solution.
Thanks, Peggie. Our tank has no notable problems... just wondering best bet
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Originally Posted by cardude01 
Are most a float attached to a sending unit or something different? I really don't want to pull that sending unit.
Actually there are very few any more that have internal senders...Wema and SeaLand still do, but most--including the one cardude has (which he'd know if he'd bothered to read my reply...see post #74) --use some type of external sender. If he needs a new one, I think he can handle pulling a glued-on strip off the outside wall of the tank.
Are most a float attached to a sending unit or something different? I really don't want to pull that sending unit.
Actually there are very few any more that have internal senders...Wema and SeaLand still do, but most--including the one cardude has (which he'd know if he'd bothered to read my reply...see post #74) --use some type of external sender. If he needs a new one, I think he can handle pulling a glued-on strip off the outside wall of the tank.
Flushing out the tank 2-3x a season--and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup--as I've described several times here gets rid of any sludge without the need for any additive. What you're looking for is a product that'll do that little bit of work for you.
cardude01
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Originally Posted by cardude01
Are most a float attached to a sending unit or something different? I really don't want to pull that sending unit.
Actually there are very few any more that have internal senders...Wema and SeaLand still do, but most--including the one cardude has (which he'd know if he'd bothered to read my reply...see post #74) --use some type of external sender. If he needs a new one, I think he can handle pulling a glued-on strip off the outside wall of the tank.
Thanks Peggy. I read the post, but need to get back on the boat and look at the tank again. I didn't think it had an external sender but I really didn't know what I was looking at.
Flushing out the tank 2-3x a season--and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup--as I've described several times here gets rid of any sludge without the need for any additive. What you're looking for is a product that'll do that little bit of work for you.
- - > 
Pgitug
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OK I have not read all the posts so if I am repeating, forgive me. Has anyone heard of adding on quart of mixed Tang, the orange drink, per 40 gallons of holding tank? A dock master told me today he tried this and after four or five uses the one inch tank sludge was gone..
Anyone confirm this story?
Anyone confirm this story?
I've heard of a lot of nutty ideas in 25 years, but that's a new one...
The ingredients in Tang are Sugar, Fructose, Citric Acid, Calcium Phosphate, Contains Less than 2% of Orange Juice Solids, Natural Flavor, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Vitamin E Acetate, Niacinamide, Vitamin B6, Vitamin A Palmitate, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Beta Carotene, Maltodextrin ...
Distilled white vinegar is a liquid consisting of about 5–20% acetic acid (CH3COOH), water, and other trace chemicals, which may include flavorings. The acetic acid is produced by the fermentation of ethanol by acetic acid bacteria.
I don't think the Tang did any harm--although all that sugar had to leave a sticky residue...but the citric and ascorbic aids are the only ingredients in Tang that could have accomplished anything...and the concentrations of those are a fraction of the amount in distilled white vinegar...so he'd prob'ly have accomplished just as much with a couple of 1-quart doses of white vinegar for about half the cost and with the sticky residue.
It's also highly possible that flushing out his tank 3 times with nothing but water would have done just much.
The ingredients in Tang are Sugar, Fructose, Citric Acid, Calcium Phosphate, Contains Less than 2% of Orange Juice Solids, Natural Flavor, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Vitamin E Acetate, Niacinamide, Vitamin B6, Vitamin A Palmitate, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Beta Carotene, Maltodextrin ...
Distilled white vinegar is a liquid consisting of about 5–20% acetic acid (CH3COOH), water, and other trace chemicals, which may include flavorings. The acetic acid is produced by the fermentation of ethanol by acetic acid bacteria.
I don't think the Tang did any harm--although all that sugar had to leave a sticky residue...but the citric and ascorbic aids are the only ingredients in Tang that could have accomplished anything...and the concentrations of those are a fraction of the amount in distilled white vinegar...so he'd prob'ly have accomplished just as much with a couple of 1-quart doses of white vinegar for about half the cost and with the sticky residue.
It's also highly possible that flushing out his tank 3 times with nothing but water would have done just much.
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BruceK
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Even so, probably safer than drinking it.
If you read the list of ingredients, Tang is not only safe to drink, it's actually pretty healthy. It was originally created for astronauts as a substitute for orange juice....one of many consumer products that came from the space program.
Mostly sugar and other sweeteners.
danderer
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That is a common belief but not strictly true. Tang predated the US astronaut program by a few years; NASA chose it for trials and use in space. But Tang wasn't created for that purpose... Or so I believe.
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