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Old 07-27-2020, 09:12 AM   #1
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Temperature issue

Hello from Distant.

Just had my perkins 4236 completely reconditioned. When I open valve to direct coolant through hot water tank,temperature increases,when it reaches 200 I shut the valve of and temperature drops back down to 185. I don't know how high it would go if I left valve open.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:17 AM   #2
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Did it behave that way before engine work?
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Old 07-27-2020, 11:45 AM   #3
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Temperature issue

Not much information here for remote troubleshooting but three thoughts for you:
1. If that is your temperature sender in the photo, with the water heater shutoff valve next in the same pipe, it could be that the actual coolant temperature does not change when the valve is opened. The increase could be due to coolant flowing past the sender when the valve is open, but the sender is in a blind pipe when the valve is closed.
2. The coolant flowing through the water heater is not being cooled nearly as effectively as the balance of the flow going through the heat exchanger. You could have too much coolant bypassing the heat exchanger via the water heater. Partially closing the valve would fix this. A globe valve is better for bypass coolant flow to bus heaters or water tanks as you can modulate the flow better.
3. Don’t forget that electric temperature gauges are notoriously inaccurate, and a different sender will give a different reading. Your 200 degree reading could be higher than the actual temperature, and hence less scary.

I would test with the heater valve cracked slightly, just enough to have flow, and see if the temperature stabilizes.
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Old 07-27-2020, 01:41 PM   #4
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I had different engines before,did not have this issue.
I did open valve slightly to see if reduced flow would correct problem, but temperature still increased.
I am wondering if the location of the sensor is giving incorrect read out with valve open or closed,and which would be correct,valve open or closed. It is not actually in the head ,instead T'd into a line coming from the head
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Old 07-27-2020, 01:55 PM   #5
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With different engines, isn't it possible that the plumbing needs to be different? This sounds a lot more complex because of that. I suggest a pro to figure this out. I'd even talk to the shop that put this engine in because they didn't plumb it correctly and they should correct it on their nickel. Have you spoken with them?
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Old 07-27-2020, 02:14 PM   #6
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Yes,did discuss it with them,and they don't understand why this is happening. However have recently discussed it someone who has been involved with marine engines for sometime,he' will look more closely at the issues and also will discuss further with those who did the work on the engine.
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Old 07-27-2020, 02:29 PM   #7
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In person, tracing hoses and knowledge of different cooling setups is your best bet. Please keep us posted as we all learn from this type of situation. Cheers.
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:09 PM   #8
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Thanks for your input....,cheers.
It would be interesting to see how someone with the same engine has their hot water tank connected.
Thanks again.
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Old 07-28-2020, 12:01 PM   #9
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Temperature issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Distant View Post
Thanks for your input....,cheers.
It would be interesting to see how someone with the same engine has their hot water tank connected.
Thanks again.


I have a Perkins 4.236. My coolant for hot water tank circulates through a small heat exchanger on the hydronic heating system, which services the hot water tank plus the space heating. This makes no difference to what the engine cooling system sees, other than I may get a bit more cooling in the rare event that I use the engine heat for space heating. I leave both globe valves on the heating circuit wide open as I have never had an issue with overheating.

I do have two engine temperature senders. One located on the thermostat housing which serves the gauge on the flybridge. The second is located where yours is, serving the lower helm gauge. I do see a 20 degree lower temperature on the lower gauge, which I have never investigated, as they are both steady and consistent at all operating conditions. An IR gun on the head reads 185, which is what the upper gauge (sender on thermostat housing) reads.

For info I have the Bowman mani-cooler system. The engine is a 1999 vintage.

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Old 07-28-2020, 03:13 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info.
Both engines recently reconditioned,right engine runs and indicates 20° cooler than left, sensors in same location,however will check them more closely. Still working on some issues.
Thanks again.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:19 PM   #11
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My engines are around mid 80'S but recently reconditioned. Have not checked the make of the heat exchanger ,but will do.
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Old 07-28-2020, 04:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distant View Post
Thanks for the info.
Both engines recently reconditioned,right engine runs and indicates 20° cooler than left, sensors in same location,however will check them more closely. Still working on some issues.
Thanks again.
Swap the sensors just for grins.
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Old 07-28-2020, 05:56 PM   #13
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Maybe will do.
Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:13 PM   #14
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Your issue sound like the water is not circulating through the water heater properly. Also, the location of the temp sensor looks like its giving you the temperature of the dead leg. I suggest that you check the location of the return leg from the heater back to the engine.
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:13 AM   #15
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Thanks,will check return leg.
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:26 AM   #16
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Quick question and then I will observe.
Is the hot water heater electrically on, at the same time?
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:03 AM   #17
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No,no electrical on to tank at same time.
Thanks.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:18 AM   #18
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Hmmm restricted water flow, perhaps. Blow the coils of the hot water heater out.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:30 AM   #19
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Buy an IR gun. Your troubleshooting will be quick and accurate.
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Old 07-29-2020, 10:46 AM   #20
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Yes,just recently started checking it all out,so will take all sugestions into consideration.
Thanks.
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