rule of thumb for boat slip size

[rgano]

The pulleys are near the top of the pilings so if they are under water I have bigger problems. Keep in mind that the pulleys and lines that run through them are small in comparision to the dock lines, so they would break before there was ever any strain between them and the boat, not that there should be. I'll take some pics soon. System works great, makes it easy for wife to grab lines when I'm backing in, and keeps lines out of the water when gone.

Thanks. I get the setup now. Small weighted lines running through sheaves to keep the heavy mooring lines out of the wawa. Never any mooring stress on the light stuff.

 

[Art]

While at anchor... two fenders on boat side [same on other side]. Those are for side tie of our tow behind runabout as well as for friends runabouts when they visit.

At dock we keep fenders out too.

 

[rslifkin]

For us, fenders out before docking, retrieved after departure. Mine hang on the Taylormade adjusters. I've learned from experience that if you snag a fender hard while docking it'll just break the adjuster, then you fish the fender out of the water with a boat hook and install a new adjuster.

 

[backinblue]

Thanks. I get the setup now. Small weighted lines running through sheaves to keep the heavy mooring lines out of the wawa. Never any mooring stress on the light stuff.

Exactly. Funny I was just at a marina over the weekend in NY. No slips just pilings. They could benefit from a system like this that is used by everyone at my yacht club. Also prevents any possible lines getting into the props or thrusters.

 

[backinblue]

I've tried a few different fender adjusters/hangers and these are the winner for me. They stay attached to my fender lines when not in use and are easily deployed and adjusted. There are sizes for different rails, but last I checked 1 1/4" were the largest they make which won't work for some.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CT4MCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[OldDan1943]

Window sash weights made of iron, as I recall from my youth.

 

[backinblue]

Window sash weights made of iron, as I recall from my youth.

That's exactly what I use. I think they are about 7 lbs. I spray them with rustoleum zinc before use and they stay amazingly growth free even after several seasons.

 

[backinblue]

What about with boat sheds?

With a wider shed which has 30” decks on both sides, giving the boat an excess of 6’ of slip width over its beam, does that seem too much? That seems like a lot of water on one side when attaching lines.

Boat sheds are not popular or non-existent in some parts of the country. Would love to have one if I could.

 

[backinblue]

backnblue, yes true rub rails. No chrome strip to catch on 'things'.

What's wrong with a stainless steel strip at the outer edge of the rub rail? Provides added protection from dings and scratches.

 

[OldDan1943]

What's wrong with a stainless steel strip at the outer edge of the rub rail? Provides added protection from dings and scratches.

Dont want to catch and snag, ripping the rest of the strip off.
How many tug boats have that SS stip? Must be a reason for that.

 

[psneeld]

What's wrong with a stainless steel strip at the outer edge of the rub rail? Provides added protection from dings and scratches.

Its not the strip that is an issue, it's that all to often that's all it is over just glass or a hard backing which is fine for just a rub rail, but useless against real bangs.

Then it is all mangled or scratched and looks like crap on pretty boats.

 

[backinblue]

Nothing against tugs, but not everyone wants a boat that looks like a tug. If you bang anything hard enough to mangle your rub rail, you are going to have something that looks like crap and needs repair. I guess if you have true tug-like rails you can go banging into whatever you want, I'd rather avoid that. I thought we were more talking about rubbing against a wood piling while pulling in or out of a slip. My rub rails work great for that and the outer stainless strip still looks pretty.

 

[psneeld]

I rather avoid it too, but experience has taught me that it still happens...because of me or someone else.

Doesn't have to be Tug sized, but a stainless strip screwed to the hull/deck joint is just a place waiting for Glassworks.

Travel more,, all pilings are not created equal.

 

[backinblue]

I rather avoid it too, but experience has taught me that it still happens...because of me or someone else.

Doesn't have to be Tug sized, but a stainless strip screwed to the hull/deck joint is just a place waiting for Glassworks.

Travel more,, all pilings are not created equal.

I travel all the time. I agree that just a stainless strip in not a rub rail. My rail extends at least a couple inches from the hull and then has a stainless strip attached. Does a good job of bumping off pilings which is all I expect of it.

 

[rslifkin]

The stainless handles being gently laid up against a piling just fine. But occasionally in a tight slip with a crosswind it would be nice to have something that could handle more of a hit against a piling without having to cover the boat in fenders.

 

[psneeld]

I travel all the time. I agree that just a stainless strip in not a rub rail. My rail extends at least a couple inches from the hull and then has a stainless strip attached. Does a good job of bumping off pilings which is all I expect of it.

Often it is hard plastic or just glass behind the strip. Just transmits the energy.

Pilings full of tar, growth, hardware or are made of cement .....quickly remove the pretty factor of stainless/chrome.

 

[backinblue]

10 years in and my boat remains pretty so I guess I'm lucky or just more careful than others.