Keel blocking Mainship

[kendad]

My keel was damaged during a winter layover and the hauler is not taking responsibility. I’m trying to find any info about how it is to be done correctly for my attorney. Any help is appreciated, vessel has been blocked for 18 years by previous owner with no issues. My hauler says faulty glass which has been disproved. Too much weight on block during lowering is what’s suspected . Again any help appreciated.

 

[psneeld]

First off....is the boat insured and have you contacted your insurance company? If not I recommend you contact them, but you don't have to file a claim yet (maybe...see where that goes).

18 years of poor blocking could have started a long term issue that finally resulted in damage.


Like many things that "could be" long term..... proving exactly what happened beginning with proof the current damage happened in one incident.

What proof on either side right now exists either way?


Once you get an idea of what a repair would approximately cost, you can evaluate how much you are willing to spend to try and get the cost repaired. If insurance covers it, even with deductibles and raised rates, it may be cheaper in the long run. At that point insurance for both parties work it out.

 

[kendad]

First off....is the boat insured and have you contacted your insurance company? If not I recommend you contact them, but you don't have to file a claim yet (maybe...see where that goes).

18 years of poor blocking could have started a long term issue that finally resulted in damage.


Like many things that "could be" long term..... proving exactly what happened beginning with proof the current damage happened in one incident.

What proof on either side right now exists either way?


Once you get an idea of what a repair would approximately cost, you can evaluate how much you are willing to spend to try and get the cost repaired. If insurance covers it, even with deductibles and raised rates, it may be cheaper in the long run. At that point insurance for both parties work it out.

Thanks, we’ve done all that and had the hull inspected which is where we deduced not bad glass. My dilemma is complicated in that there’s very little info regarding the placement of keel blocks, sling marks are identified on the freeboard but nothing for blocking.

 

[psneeld]

Who determined what (qualifications)?


Before you answer, if you plan on legal action at some point, be very careful what you say on the internet.


In all the marinas I have lived or worked in... there are few yards that know where blocks are best placed. They use rules of thumb or whatever the yard has established as a minimum number of blocks, but not usually exactly where. My last haul, I had to as for a different blocking technique as I wasn't satisfied with the stability of a block stacking. They gladly complied without issue....but it wasn't about placement, just blocking stability.


I have seen boats such as a 35 Mainship blocked with 2, 3 and 4 blocking stacks. I would guess 2 is one too few and 4 may be one more than necessary but I would have to have a closer look.


I am thinking it may not be where or how many blocking stack were used but how the boat was placed on the stacks.


Beyond an expert (read I am not saying many surveyors, yard mnagers, etc), determining why the glass failed can be very important (I have professional level accident investigation and material failure training).

 

[Shrew]

The keel should be blocked at the transom, and each bulkhead. Ideally, the jack stands should also be located at the transom and the bulkheads, though I've also seen it recommended to place a jackstands no more than 10 feet apart.

Block Size: 30-40 feet (6x6 x18 or 8x8x18)
40ft < (8x8x18)

 

[psneeld]

The keel should be blocked at the transom, and each bulkhead. Ideally, the jack stands should also be located at the transom and the bulkheads, though I've also seen it recommended to place a jackstands no more than 10 feet apart.

Block Size: 30-40 feet (6x6 x18 or 8x8x18)
40ft < (8x8x18)

Are these ABYC suggestions?


Not sure many keel boats have a keel all the way to the transom.


I googled images of 35 Mainships and all the ones I saw had 3 blocked areas. A little in from the end of the keel, back maybe 10 or so feet from the bow and one in the middle of those 2. Which is a very common pattern, that's what the last yard did for my boat (34 WLL, 40 LOA) though I have requested 4 sets for ground I didn't trust.

 

[rslifkin]

Are these ABYC suggestions?


Not sure many keel boats have a keel all the way to the transom.


I googled images of 35 Mainships and all the ones I saw had 3 blocked areas. A little in from the end of the keel, back maybe 10 or so feet from the bow and one in the middle of those 2. Which is a very common pattern, that's what the last yard did for my boat (34 WLL, 40 LOA) though I have requested 4 sets for ground I didn't trust.

That description is about how my boat is supported on the cradle it's currently sitting on (although there are 8 cross beams that hold the keel IIRC). In the past when it was on blocks, there were usually 3 or 4 sets under the keel, then a tall stack of blocks under the tiny keel stub right at the transom where the keel has mostly cut away, but is still an inch or so tall.

Boats with a single will typically have the keel cut away sharply before the prop, so there's usually nothing left of it at the transom. In those cases, I'd expect just stands at the transom, no blocks all the way aft. In my case with twins, there's nothing that needs to go behind the keel, so it cuts away more gradually and leaves a tiny keel stub all the way back, probably to stiffen the hull slightly or to channel water to the bilge sump (see picture below).

 

[Shrew]

Boats with a single will typically have the keel cut away sharply before the prop, so there's usually nothing left of it at the transom. In those cases, I'd expect just stands at the transom, no blocks all the way aft. In my case with twins, there's nothing that needs to go behind the keel, so it cuts away more gradually and leaves a tiny keel stub all the way back, probably to stiffen the hull slightly or to channel water to the bilge sump (see picture below).

Correct. The transom IS a bulkhead, of sorts. the weight of the boat sits on the blocks. The jackstands just keep it from tipping over. If you can't get a block under the transom, then the first place you can where a bulkhead meets the keel.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Been there two years ago, not a pleasant experience, good luck.
Mine was blocked on 1 place on the keel plus two jack aft. From the very experienced surveyor I hired this is not an issue if done properly and usually the way it is done here to have 3 points support in case of potential ground movement with freezing/unfreezing ground.
In my case the issue was that it was badly blocked ( too small blocks, and not flat bedded so the whole weight was supported on an angle what broke the hull) and put at the wrong place (no bulkhead).

L