Best Trawler for <$100k-$125k?

[Steve91T]

I am (or was.... thanks to Covid ) also trawler shopping. I've always figured I'd want a single because, coming from fullish keel sailboats, I'm used to the prop, running gear, and rudder being protected. Most twins I've seen have the shafts, props, and rudders kind of hanging out in the breeze. I do see a number of advantages with twins (and it increases my buying options), and I know many boats successfully cruise with the arrangement but it would make me nervous.

I did see a Cheoy Lee LRC with protected twin running gear but at around 58' way out of my size range.

Anyway, all that to say would you be able to share a photo of your protected twin arrangement? I did try to look one up online but was only able to find the more usual setup (a random MT 47):

Here’s a pic that I took during the survey.

The newer MT’s (1990’s) were narrower and didn’t have a keel.

 

[Frosty]

Slowmo,

I take your point, and it's a good one. For me it's probably more about knowing I'd worry than the actual statistics. Also, in my size range (32-36'), the engine rooms can get cramped. I'm definitely keeping an open mind (can't do much else at the moment anyway).

But I'm also just always interested in boats and their details. I thought the Cheoy Lee was interesting with its protected running gear.

 

[Captain Doug]

Had a 1981 48 Hatteras Motoryacht. They only made about 35 total as 53’s were very popular. 3 staterooms, 3 heads, nice galley and salon but huge aft deck. Roughly 17’ x 15’ beam. With enclosure it was our primary living space. Detroits - 692’s, with geni running and 10kts used 10 gph. Great boat, heavy and seaworthy. Loved the boat in the Great Lakes with fixed docks; not so much on the southern east coast with 8’ tides, current and wind; may want a bow thruster.

 

[Benthic2]

Ok....so I'd like to offer a contrarian opinion here.....

To enter the boating world with a 45' boat may not be the most practical way to get started. Have you considered getting a 30-35' boat for a few years ( or even smaller )?? Easier to navigate, you learn what's important to you, you gain experience, the learning curve is steeper and cheaper, etc. With the smaller cheaper boat you are still learning boat handling, aquiring assorted gear, making contacts, learning the systems, figure out weather systems and building confidence.

Only 50% of people find the right wife on the first try.....for boats, its even less.

 

[rolomart3]

Just some points to keep in mind:


1) Do not expect a boat from the 1980s to hold much value at all above $100k. in fact, do not spend more that $100k on a boat that is more than 30 years old. Fewer lenders are willing to finance older boats and the pool of buyers drops dramatically. By the time you plan to sell the boat, it will be a 40+ year old boat, more like a 15-year old car.


2) Offer 20% below price because they already jacked up the price that much.


3) Be particularly careful with older boats when it comes to availability of parts.


4) Many boats are a deal for someone trying to rehab a storm-damaged boat. You should have a surveyor that can spot these rehabs that are truly dogs


5) Pay particular attention to joinery work at windows and port holes. The boat may float but it could leak and stain things inside. Huge expenses over the years.


6) Carefully inspect deck cores and transom. They may look fine but have the rigidity of a sponge, not good.



7) Avoid any canvas like the pest. That is exactly what it is, an expensive pest.


8) You could spend $15k replacing fuel tanks. So insist in the purchase contract that the tanks be topped one week before the sea trial. Any diesel in the bilge is a deal killer.


9) Also insist that before sea trial, have the waste holding tank be cleaned so a even the macerator pump may be tried with pink antifreeze while in the hard or at sea trial, no effluent. The idea is to detect any colored water in the bilge.


10) Fuel system air-leaks are an expensive PITA and potentially dangerous in some single-engine diesel boats. The engine may quit while in a critical moment requiring a panic drop of the anchor and a prayer.



11) Bow and stern thrusters are more like necessities than nice-to-have these days. Over four times, the thrusters in my boat pulled me out sideways from a bank the wind send me aground sideways. I could not get out moving either forward or backwards, only sideways.


12) Plan that operating and maintenance costs will go up about 33% when going from single to twin-engine propulsion.



Good luck.

 

[catalinajack]

Some very good advice here, some, well, just an opinion not supported by the facts. Far too much generalization. For example, parts unavailability. What parts? Boats pretty much use the same equipment, old or new. Engine parts? Detroit Diesel, Perkins, Lehmans, parts for these old design engines are readily available world-wide.

Just some points to keep in mind:


1) Do not expect a boat from the 1980s to hold much value at all above $100k. in fact, do not spend more that $100k on a boat that is more than 30 years old. Fewer lenders are willing to finance older boats and the pool of buyers drops dramatically. By the time you plan to sell the boat, it will be a 40+ year old boat, more like a 15-year old car.


2) Offer 20% below price because they already jacked up the price that much.


3) Be particularly careful with older boats when it comes to availability of parts.


4) Many boats are a deal for someone trying to rehab a storm-damaged boat. You should have a surveyor that can spot these rehabs that are truly dogs


5) Pay particular attention to joinery work at windows and port holes. The boat may float but it could leak and stain things inside. Huge expenses over the years.


6) Carefully inspect deck cores and transom. They may look fine but have the rigidity of a sponge, not good.



7) Avoid any canvas like the pest. That is exactly what it is, an expensive pest.


8) You could spend $15k replacing fuel tanks. So insist in the purchase contract that the tanks be topped one week before the sea trial. Any diesel in the bilge is a deal killer.


9) Also insist that before sea trial, have the waste holding tank be cleaned so a even the macerator pump may be tried with pink antifreeze while in the hard or at sea trial, no effluent. The idea is to detect any colored water in the bilge.


10) Fuel system air-leaks are an expensive PITA and potentially dangerous in some single-engine diesel boats. The engine may quit while in a critical moment requiring a panic drop of the anchor and a prayer.



11) Bow and stern thrusters are more like necessities than nice-to-have these days. Over four times, the thrusters in my boat pulled me out sideways from a bank the wind send me aground sideways. I could not get out moving either forward or backwards, only sideways.


12) Plan that operating and maintenance costs will go up about 33% when going from single to twin-engine propulsion.



Good luck.

 

[nJAYneer]

So, a ton of great feedback. Thank you. I am thinking about a 45-55' boat and it will be my second. The first was a 27' catalina. Had it for 7 years. Took a break, now I want to move aboard. Hence, my original post. What about hulls? Some of the more sleek boats - like the Tollycraft 44 - have modified V hulls. And others, like the Defever 44+5 have semi-displacement. My general use will be coastal cruising, and will avoid longer crossings. I'd say the longest might be from keys to cancun. I will typically cruise at hull speed. So, modified V versus the semi-displacement trade offs? What about comfort at anchor?

 

[Rufus]

So, a ton of great feedback. Thank you. I am thinking about a 45-55' boat and it will be my second. The first was a 27' catalina. Had it for 7 years. Took a break, now I want to move aboard. Hence, my original post. What about hulls? Some of the more sleek boats - like the Tollycraft 44 - have modified V hulls. And others, like the Defever 44+5 have semi-displacement. My general use will be coastal cruising, and will avoid longer crossings. I'd say the longest might be from keys to cancun. I will typically cruise at hull speed. So, modified V versus the semi-displacement trade offs? What about comfort at anchor?

The 44-46 Ocean Alexanders, which look similar to the Tolly 44 above the water line, use an Ed Monk Jr semi-displacement hull design....relatively full forward hull sections and a keel. Same for the other OAs on your original list. I did some fuel burn runs a few years ago....the 440 is solidly on-plane at 13 kts, 200 HP, about 1.3KMPG. Top speed is 17 KT with 500 installed horsepower. Obviously hull drag goes up quickly with speed. I cruise the boat at 8.5 Kts ...about 1.9 MPG. The fuel numbers would improve dramatically at hull speed.

 

[RSampson]

Which brands of boats are American made, and which are made in Taiwan?
Which brands are known for better build quality and which are not so?
I am in the early stages of looking for a trawler and after reading through this thread there is a lot I have to learn about the different brands of boats. Thanks.

 

[Rufus]

So, a ton of great feedback. Thank you. I am thinking about a 45-55' boat and it will be my second. The first was a 27' catalina. Had it for 7 years. Took a break, now I want to move aboard. Hence, my original post. What about hulls? Some of the more sleek boats - like the Tollycraft 44 - have modified V hulls. And others, like the Defever 44+5 have semi-displacement. My general use will be coastal cruising, and will avoid longer crossings. I'd say the longest might be from keys to cancun. I will typically cruise at hull speed. So, modified V versus the semi-displacement trade offs? What about comfort at anchor?

nJAYneer,

I happened to run across this photo of our OA 440. The side perspective depicts the partial length keel.

 

[Baker]

Which brands of boats are American made, and which are made in Taiwan?
Which brands are known for better build quality and which are not so?
I am in the early stages of looking for a trawler and after reading through this thread there is a lot I have to learn about the different brands of boats. Thanks.

I wouldn't get too hung up on brands. There are some that have more trouble than others. Marine Trader had some pretty bad ones way back oin the 70s but they got better. When it comes to the Asian boats, it is not a matter of brand usually. It is just a mater of how well they were taken care of throughout their lifetime.

As far as American made "trawlers", there just weren't that many. Mainship comes to mind. Do a search on here and you will find tons of info. There is a current active thread on them called "Attack of the Mainships". It has a lot of good information on them in general.

Hatteras made some really nice displacement boats in the late 70s and early 80s that are still higly regarded. Mama is chomping at the bit over my shoulder so have to stop post.