ABYC Cite PLEASE?

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Here's my less expensive, homemade version.

Good morning ASD,
We have basically the same boat. Took a while to find, but the breakers are under the lower helm, tucked up on top of a horizontal piece of wood...

Not sure if that's what you're looking for/referring to...


So psneeld and Scott are your additional current protection boxs WITHIN ten feet of the boats power inlet as measured along the conductor?

Scott you are under the helm so you may be 20 feet or more from the power inlet. Not sure of psneeld.


Look at what CMS posted:

E-11 7/2018

"11.10.2.8.3 Additional Overcurrent Protection - If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of 10 ft (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 ft (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors.

So based on the above the new box MUST be within 10ft of the inlet.

So what is one to do if all the wire is like mine, all in cased in a raceway/tube?

My breaker panel is approximately 21 feet from the inlet. If I mount it in the helm it will be mounted about 16 feet from the inlet.:whistling:
 
Mine is just inside where the power comes into the boat.

It's only a few feet to the main panel, but I wanted an ELCI.

I posted the ELCI box back on page 1....I would have to see the back of your shore power inlet to make a suggestion.
 
Mine is just inside where the power comes into the boat.

It's only a few feet to the main panel, but I wanted an ELCI.

I posted the ELCI box back on page 1....I would have to see the back of your shore power inlet to make a suggestion.

That box is on sale at Defender Marine through Sunday for $388. First post BTW. Had to register to say that.
 
That box is on sale at Defender Marine through Sunday for $388. First post BTW. Had to register to say that.

Yep ....great prices than from 2 years ago when I bought.
 
Surveyors do many types of surveys , frequently before a boat is sold.

Sadly some can attempt to justify their expense by finding "flaws" in the vessel so their cost seems less .

I guess they carry this self serving practice , even on insurance inspections.

eg, "I saved your life by quoting rules made 30 years after your boat was built , that have zero to do with your boat. Don't you feel so much safer?"
 
Surveyors do many types of surveys , frequently before a boat is sold.

Sadly some can attempt to justify their expense by finding "flaws" in the vessel so their cost seems less .

I guess they carry this self serving practice , even on insurance inspections.

eg, "I saved your life by quoting rules made 30 years after your boat was built , that have zero to do with your boat. Don't you feel so much safer?"


I don't think it's that nefarious. The inspection identifies things that by current standards pose a greater risk. It's 100% your choice whether you fix/upgrade it or not. Nobody is saying you must do it.


Now if you don't, insurers may be less interested in insuring your boat, because it's a higher risk. If I were an insurer, I'd be very concerned about older boats with sub-standard power systems, that have been hacked in all sorts of ways over their life. I'm not saying that ASD's boat is like this, but I think we have all seen our share of derelict boats. I'd want to snap on the rubber glove and give it a real close inspection before agreeing to insure. But it's also your choice whether or not you carry hull insurance. Unfortunately it's also your choice whether you carry liability insurance, but that's a whole other topic.


And you can choose to incur the extra risk yourself in your use of the boat, and not fix/upgrade. It's your choice.
 
ASD
Do you have any space adjacent to the boat power inlet?
Mine any many I see are immediately adjacent and would allow simply moving the cable to the main panel to the new CB and adding jumpers from inlet to CB.
All could be done through mounting holes if there is space to add something like this.
http://cmsquick.com/prod_30_cbiss_29.jpg
There are both 30A & 50A versions available that are Wx title for outside mounting.
 
ASD
Do you have any space adjacent to the boat power inlet?
Mine any many I see are immediately adjacent and would allow simply moving the cable to the main panel to the new CB and adding jumpers from inlet to CB.
All could be done through mounting holes if there is space to add something like this.
http://cmsquick.com/prod_30_cbiss_29.jpg
There are both 30A & 50A versions available that are Wx title for outside mounting.

Thanks - where can one find that handy inlet with the breaker? I will need a 50amp.
 
The need for protection right at the point of where the shore power comes into the boat has been known for a long long time. My 1981 Hatteras had OEM big shotgun shell fuses right next to the input plug on the boat. For that matter I haven't seen a house where there isn't a breaker right by where the power comes in from the street to the house.

It's amazing to me the number of people on here that are terrified of hooking up to shoreside water supply and the number who resent having to have basic electrical safety measures.
 
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The need for protection right at the point of where the shore power comes into the boat has been known for a long long time. My 1981 Hatteras had OEM big shotgun shell fuses right next to the input plug on the boat. For that matter I haven't seen a house where there isn't a breaker right by where the power comes in from the street to the house.


I think one of the challenges is that these are sometimes very skillfully hidden. I have heard of cases where they are behind removable panels, inside cabinets, and the owner never knew they were there. Aah, the fun of boat ownership. Treasure hunts!
 
It's amazing to me the number of people on here that are terrified of hooking up to shoreside water supply and the number who resent having to have basic electrical safety measures.


Agreed. It amazes me how many people have told me I'm crazy for thinking that those 50A to 30A adapters so many people use are downright dangerous (because they leave the 30A shore cord and boat inlet un-protected due to the dock breaker being 50A). Now if someone would just make a version of one of those adapters with breakers in it...
 
Here's one source but a search should turn up many.
Hubbell catalog available online for other versions
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/marinco-50-amp-shore-power-inlet.html

Thanks - have seen those but did not realize they contained a breaker. Before I buy anything I think I'll check on what I have now - may already have one! The back of my inlet 'box' is in the 'master' closet in our 'stateroom', so not too difficult to get to. Added a Galvanic Isolator in that box last yr, but I was away from the boat and had the yard's electrician install it. Such fun exploring these old boats.
 
Thanks - have seen those but did not realize they contained a breaker. Before I buy anything I think I'll check on what I have now - may already have one! The back of my inlet 'box' is in the 'master' closet in our 'stateroom', so not too difficult to get to. Added a Galvanic Isolator in that box last yr, but I was away from the boat and had the yard's electrician install it. Such fun exploring these old boats.
These are not a combo inlet + CB. Inlet is a separate but similar size look as the CB. You would need space to cut an additional hole to mount the CB and then wire it in series from inlet to main CB panel.
Take a look at a Hubbell catalog. They likely will have more pics, dwgs, etc. There are other CB with plates and Wx protected switches available.
 
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I think one of the challenges is that these are sometimes very skillfully hidden. I have heard of cases where they are behind removable panels, inside cabinets, and the owner never knew they were there. Aah, the fun of boat ownership. Treasure hunts!

Yep that was me yesterday. I found all kind of extra places!!


Here's other versions w square cover vs screwed SS.
You can match your current inlet. Note some include / exclude a rear cover with strain relief. If not included you'll need to order separately to complete the install.
https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Breaker-Housing-6353EL-Compliant/dp/B06WP26QYY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MARINCO-MA...48d2af8c69:g:ZqsAAOSwpO5dgTdW&redirect=mobile

ASD
Do you have any space adjacent to the boat power inlet?
Mine any many I see are immediately adjacent and would allow simply moving the cable to the main panel to the new CB and adding jumpers from inlet to CB.
All could be done through mounting holes if there is space to add something like this.
http://cmsquick.com/prod_30_cbiss_29.jpg
There are both 30A & 50A versions available that are Wx title for outside mounting.

Thank you! So this ELCI would fix my issue and satisfy the ABYC requirements?

Didn't know these existed.......
 
Yep that was me yesterday. I found all kind of extra places!!






Thank you! So this ELCI would fix my issue and satisfy the ABYC requirements?

Didn't know these existed.......
ABYC is exactly why they exist & are used.
 
If there's a breaker in these, I had NO IDEA... lol...

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ASD
This may be what you are looking for.

https://abycinc.org/page/StandardsSupp58

E-11 AC & DC Electrical Systems on Boats

Purpose: This standard is a guide for the design, construction, and installation of alternating current (AC) electrical systems and direct current (DC) electrical systems on boats.

NOTES:
The United States Coast Guard has promulgated mandatory requirements for electrical systems in Title 33, CFR 183 Subpart I. Refer to the CFR for current federal requirements.
See E-30, Electric Propulsion Systems, for voltages over 300 VAC and 60 VDC for the purposes of electric/hybrid propulsion.
Three phase power systems pose different risks from those encountered with single phase systems and should only be installed and maintained in accordance with specifications detailed in any of the various recognized standards development organizations including IEEE, ABS, Det Norske Veritas, etc.
Scope: This standard applies to:

11.2.1 alternating current (AC) electrical systems on boats operating at frequencies of 50 or 60 hertz and less than 300 volts, including shore power systems up to the point of connection to the shore outlet and including the shore power cable and,
11.2.2 direct current (DC) electrical systems on boats operating at 60 volts nominal or less.
EXCEPTIONS:
Any conductor that is part of an outboard engine assembly and does not extend beyond the outboard engine manufacturer’s supplied cowling.
Engine manufacturer supplied engine management systems and their associated conductors.
Current Version: (2018, RFI)
Archive Standards: (2015) (2012) (2009) (2008) (2003)

NOTE: ABYC E-11, AC & DC Electrical Systems is a result of combining standards E-8, Alternating Current (AC) Electrical Systems on Boats, and E-9, Direct Current (DC) Electrical Systems on Boats.

E-8, Alternating Current (AC) Electrical Systems on Boats: (2001) (1999) (1994) (1985) (1977) (1974)
E-9, Direct Current (DC) Electrical Systems on Boats: (1998) (1990) (1981) (1975)


I hope this helps.
 
It is designed to be install near the shore power inlet but doesn't replace the inlet. You unscrew the cover to access the breakers.
 

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No breaker in those but you can add the breaker with an identical e ternsl housing and cover for a unified look.
Similar ones avail for the square plastic covered inlets
If there's a breaker in these, I had NO IDEA... lol...

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That may be the way to go. It would look nice and may be easier to fit than a panel inside a box.
 
Here's other versions w square cover vs screwed SS.
You can match your current inlet. Note some include / exclude a rear cover with strain relief. If not included you'll need to order separately to complete the install.
https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Breaker-Housing-6353EL-Compliant/dp/B06WP26QYY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MARINCO-MA...48d2af8c69:g:ZqsAAOSwpO5dgTdW&redirect=mobile

Got it. Thanks. We have a phone/TV round inlet next to the elec inlet that we don't use - could put the breaker there:thumb:
 
It is designed to be install near the shore power inlet but doesn't replace the inlet. You unscrew the cover to access the breakers.

A few questions:

Where do you get this?

Is this for two inlets as in two 50amp connections?

If this has two connections, then I can remove the tv cable/phone connection and mount this in its place. Write up completed!! Getting excited;)
 
Check eBay I noticed a few new units w/o packaging. Other ones that usually have decent prices is WholesaleMarine.com
oe Defender
 
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