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Old 05-18-2017, 07:11 AM   #21
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I'll do more research but would a 5gpm washdown pump do the trick or does it create too much pressure?
You need to consider additional factors other than flow rate for your circulation pump. The flow rate and head pressure requirements for the circulation pump are really quite low but the pump needs to be continuous duty as it may run for days on end without break. You will also want a quiet pump. You want to have a AC voltage powered pump because that is what you need to power the air conditioner anyway and running a DC voltage pump continuously will require constant charging of the batteries. When you consider these factors it helps justify the ~$230 cost for a March pump. The magnetic drive these pumps have allow for a long service life because they don't have a shaft to seal and they protect the pump from burning up the motor if (when) you get a blockage. The guy on thehullforum used a fish tank pump which would have most of the features you need but keep in mind that these pumps are not self priming (neither are the March) and therefore need to be located below the waterline. Any plumbing below the waterline connected to the sea presents a flooding opportunity if the case breaks and a fish tank pump is not engineered with this in mind. A fish tank pump's motor isn't ignition protected either but less of an issue for a diesel boat but something to keep in mind and could pop up on a survey.

It is smart to keep an open mind for alternative ways to accomplish things but remember to carefully consider why the conventional products are used. Before you buy a used unit, try calling around a bit and see if a scratch & dent or open box kind of unit is available. An installer may have a decent used unit that most boaters would not pay to have installed but would have value to a diy boater like yourself.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:17 AM   #22
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Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:44 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
You need to consider additional factors other than flow rate for your circulation pump. The flow rate and head pressure requirements for the circulation pump are really quite low but the pump needs to be continuous duty as it may run for days on end without break. You will also want a quiet pump. You want to have a AC voltage powered pump because that is what you need to power the air conditioner anyway and running a DC voltage pump continuously will require constant charging of the batteries. When you consider these factors it helps justify the ~$230 cost for a March pump. The magnetic drive these pumps have allow for a long service life because they don't have a shaft to seal and they protect the pump from burning up the motor if (when) you get a blockage. The guy on thehullforum used a fish tank pump which would have most of the features you need but keep in mind that these pumps are not self priming (neither are the March) and therefore need to be located below the waterline. Any plumbing below the waterline connected to the sea presents a flooding opportunity if the case breaks and a fish tank pump is not engineered with this in mind. A fish tank pump's motor isn't ignition protected either but less of an issue for a diesel boat but something to keep in mind and could pop up on a survey.

It is smart to keep an open mind for alternative ways to accomplish things but remember to carefully consider why the conventional products are used. Before you buy a used unit, try calling around a bit and see if a scratch & dent or open box kind of unit is available. An installer may have a decent used unit that most boaters would not pay to have installed but would have value to a diy boater like yourself.
Thanks so much for the info on the pumps. That's why i'm here.. To learn.

After talking to some guys at the marina it seems like a trade off. A couple guys worry about the boat sinking due to thru hulls for their AC and say the grass isn't always greener.

The rooftop AC is going to stay either way so i'm just using it for now. The portable unit in the Berth has to go. I'm considering simple window unit with an adapter in the front bow hatch "for now". It would clear up some space.

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Originally Posted by Alaskasbear View Post
Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.
You know what i'm not sure. I checked out the engine but didn't write down the serial/model number. I'll check it out this weekend. I honestly would prefer the 165 because finding info on the 200 is much more difficult(i'm in no hurry).

Definitely doesn't seem to use much if any gas. I have been on 4 outings, running the genset alot and the fuel gauge has barely moved. Seems like 220 gallons would last me the year.

I have rot on the flybridge and on the back decking. The back decking will be a much easier job so I plan to tackle that "soon".

The flybridge needs support from the bottom to be sorted out correctly and I will probably wait until winter for that.

In my area a fully kitted out restored boat goes for around 45k.
Found some boats with solid decks but needed some engine service(and little to no electronics).

I'm not afraid of fiberglass work and @ 25k felt like I did good for a boat with radar, autopilot, new plotter,etc. The electronics are expensive but fiberglass is cheap(fiberglass work done by a pro/another story).

I got a quote for $3,000-6,000 to fix the flybridge/rear deck and i'd seriously consider paying 3-4 grand but 6.. I dunno.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:05 PM   #24
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Another weekend on the boat.

Very little done except great times!

Had to run the Genny alot because I moved slips = no shore power.

Had a run in with the bay mud. Got stuck, lots of rocking, reverse "dredge", forward plow, about 10' at a time but I made it the 100yds we managed onto the mud flat.

Pictures!



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Old 05-21-2017, 05:22 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post

Definitely doesn't seem to use much if any gas. I have been on 4 outings, running the genset alot and the fuel gauge has barely moved. Seems like 220 gallons would last me the year.
I wouldn't put too much faith in the guage until you get to know the boat. I have a sister ship and on mine the tank is empty when the guage reads 1/8 of a tank.
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Old 05-22-2017, 06:09 AM   #26
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I wouldn't put too much faith in the guage until you get to know the boat. I have a sister ship and on mine the tank is empty when the guage reads 1/8 of a tank.
I'll tap on the fuel cells later today. I'm inclined to believe it to a certain degree(moves in rough seas/previous owner's last fill up,etc).
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:08 AM   #27
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Mainship and speed

I have a 34 with the 200hp perkins as well. 8-9 kts in calm conditions seems to be the best cruising speed for us around 1600-1800 rpm. bumping down to 1400-1600 rpm i'm sure would save fuel on longer trip and maybe 1kt slower.
One thing to consider is your tachometer accurate? Mine was nearly 300 rpm off when I purchased the boat. They make lazer digital tachs testers now very reasonable around $20. There are adjuster screws on the back of your tachometers.
I think I did one time get mine up to 15kts for a few seconds WOT with new bottom. As far as getting one of these to actually plane, doubtful for any amount of time in my opinion.
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Old 05-24-2017, 08:52 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Alaskasbear View Post
Are you sure its 200hp? Mine is 165hp. Same year as yours. I didnt think the 200 hp came out until 81-82. Top speed is 12 knots WOT. Cruises at 7-8 burning about 1.5 gph . WOT is about 4+. My flying bridge has some rot as well. Project for the fall as well as re coring the cockpit with new hatches.
It is in fact a 160hp not a 200hp.

Doesn't bother me one but i'm actually relieved to know its a bit down on power and matching it's expected performance.

Does yours put out any smoke at all @ 1500rpm-2000?
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:03 AM   #29
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Back to the towing question.

Would it be easy to tow my Henry-O 16'er. It is built very similar to a whaler and weighs about 1500lbs(probably less)?

If so what type of line would I need at minimum to try it out?

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Old 05-24-2017, 11:45 AM   #30
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Regarding a water pump for an AC, I first used an Attwood 800 gph bait well pump. But it only lasts a couple years in salt water due to there is a metal shaft and seal that fails letting water into the motor. I ran it using a relay tied to the on part of the AC so that the relay's ac coil switched on the DC circuit. I have been wondering if a Rule bait well pump is better quality on the motor shaft...

The typical expensive March pump etc...I dont want to buy.

So I have this old dishwasher drain pump. It has a magnetically coupled impeller, sealed ceramic bearing, a thermal breaker on its coil and is super quiet and pumps out 5 gallons in about 30 seconds.
It has no cooling fan, don't know if it needs one. So I am using a PC, DC powered small fan to blow air on it. I will mount it using a piece of 2x4 and ziptie the fan on.

I coated the pump with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane so it won't rust. I plan to install it today. This is a good quality designed pump from a mid 90's Frigidaire. The AC circuit for the AC is GFCI-AFCI breaker for safety reasons.
Pump inlet is a genuine 3/4 hose. The outlet is bigger, so I screwed on a Lasko 3/4 female fitting. I first off formed some threads using a metal 3/4 pipe coupler screwed on by force and slightly heated it. The Lasko hose fitting became a perfect fit. Or I suppose some glue would work.

Pics and video of how nicely it pumps are here.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...llR1Z2dTY0WHBn
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:40 PM   #31
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It works great that dishwasher pump. Totally silent.
Added a video of it running and some more pics.
It does get warm, so will add the fan. It ran for 30 minutes without tripping its thermal breaker, but that is with the hatch open and the gen off. Not so hot I could not keep my fingers on the laminations.

If the bracket rusts, I can make one from SS sheet metal. It is coated with clear polyurethane.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:19 AM   #32
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Some updates if anyone cares(these wont have pics )

Trying to finish the setup of my cobbled together Sitex system. The boat came with a system missing the ECU so I bought a used replacement that in the end doesn't work. Got money back and still have the unit. Sitex wants $200 to fix but i'm going to replace the resistors to see if that works(doubtful). I have to have autopilot. The boat wanders quite a bit and i' tired of constantly steering(I'd still be vigilant).

I'm stuck @
1. Buy an entry level system complete for about $1,400 and install.
2. Buy a working guaranteed Sitex processor for $500. Problem here is I don't yet know if the rest of the system is functioning(ecu fix is step 1).
3. Take the risk and buy a used system.

Another option would be to test the reversing pump and compass somehow so I at least know they work and then go with the Sitex ECU.


I also am building a NMEA multiplexer using Raspberry PI/Arduino but while it's a great system doubt it could replace the Sitex ECU using openplotter/coding.
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:35 PM   #33
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Not much smoke except while its warming up.
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrwesson View Post
Some updates if anyone cares(these wont have pics )

Trying to finish the setup of my cobbled together Sitex system. The boat came with a system missing the ECU so I bought a used replacement that in the end doesn't work. Got money back and still have the unit. Sitex wants $200 to fix but i'm going to replace the resistors to see if that works(doubtful). I have to have autopilot. The boat wanders quite a bit and i' tired of constantly steering(I'd still be vigilant).

I'm stuck @
1. Buy an entry level system complete for about $1,400 and install.
2. Buy a working guaranteed Sitex processor for $500. Problem here is I don't yet know if the rest of the system is functioning(ecu fix is step 1).
3. Take the risk and buy a used system.

Another option would be to test the reversing pump and compass somehow so I at least know they work and then go with the Sitex ECU.


I also am building a NMEA multiplexer using Raspberry PI/Arduino but while it's a great system doubt it could replace the Sitex ECU using openplotter/coding.
Dont know about your autopilot as i don't have one but seeing as how you're already using PI might consider OpenCPN chartplotter. Runs great on Pi with low wattage req. OpenCPN is an opensource chartplotter thats remarkably powerful and the ability to update your charts over wifi is even better. I've been using mine for over 2 years,looking now to intergrate my radar into it. Just a thought.
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:19 PM   #35
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Got bored and decided to have a look under the deck where there was rot. This was supposed to be a fall job but I'm in too deep. Laying fiberglass with a constant stream of sweat isn't fun.

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Old 06-28-2017, 05:20 PM   #36
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Greetings,
Mr. Mr. Can't comment on your electronic projects but I CAN empathize with the "bull work". IF you've got one available, a honkin' big fan helps a lot for keeping you cooler when a goodly breeze won't foul up the works. I've also set up tarps for shade.

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Old 08-03-2017, 06:32 AM   #37
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I finally finished. Could be better but i'm calling this one done(besides touch up paint on the gunnels.

It's just too hot right now. During this project I got so dehydrated enough to completely cramp up 3 times. Between that and not having weather breaks....




Positive note.. It's rock(extremely) solid. I overdid it which in hindsight caused some of my problems with time.
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:44 AM   #38
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Other stuff i've done.

Filled a couple small spots by injecting Gorilla glue.(cant believe how well this works)

Fixed the windlass

Free'd up the windows(owner caulked them shut/Don't leak)

Fixed an engine hatch

Some other stuff I can't think of.


Only minor things left are.

New swim ladder(too short)
Remove outriggers(don't need or use them)
Autopilot

The Sitex autopilot pump works and to my knowledge the compass and rudder sensor but it's missing the CPU which Sitex wants $500 for. I'm thinking about just installing a simple autohelm system and getting rid of everything else.


Raymarine A65 broke a pin and a Garmin 3205 with a depth sounder that barely works.. Got frustrated and installed My dragonfly out of my smaller boat.. It has wifi and streams to my tablet.. Works great and simple.

Going to remove everything, bench test it and sell it.
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:45 AM   #39
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Looks fantastic. Gives me inspiration.
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Old 10-04-2017, 04:50 PM   #40
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How thick was the core on in the cockpit, and what did you replace it with?
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