Is a built in toaster oven the smart choice?

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An air fryer is basically a small scale convection oven. It doesn't really "fry" but is quicker than a toaster oven and will make things like wings a little crispy. I have one at home and rarely use it. It would probably work good on a boat as a countertop appliance if you have the room to store and use it.


So our combo unit is a microwave plus convection oven, with another smaller convection oven (air fryer) inside.

:)

-Chris
 
We have a counter top toaster over that we hauled out when we needed it. Then I realized (after 3 years) that our microwave was a convection combo. Started using it. Seems to do everything the toaster oven can do except make toast, and we already have a toaster. Going to take the toaster oven home. One less thing to store.
 
My dear HeadingtoTexas: I am always amazed at how we have similar thinking in projects. I am about to install a toaster oven and keeping the microwave too in the same cabinet.
There is enough dead area room for both but it will put a strain on my carpentry skills. The microwave will be lowered and the toaster oven installed above. Both on separate shelves. Because I took out the electric stove top and put in a propane stove top I a 30 amp plug sitting waiting to be used.
I will be lining the cabinets in SS and installing a power vent out the starboard side. Yes it fits. There is also 4-6 inches around the toaster oven for clearance. The SS is for my piece of mind.
We have the same toaster oven at home and when cranked up to 400 degrees their is very little heat coming from it. See photo. I will send finished photos when done.
 

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Our counter top airfryer/oven stays out all the time
Does great steaks and pork roast
Gas oven gets used regularly for bread and pizzas
Microwave gets used maybe 3 X a year
 

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If you don’t have an oven, you might consider a microwave/convection unit. We have one, it works great and doesn’t seem to generate too much heat.
 
We have the same toaster oven at home and when cranked up to 400 degrees their is very little heat coming from it. See photo. I will send finished photos when done.

I’ll second that, Barrie. Great minds, eh?

No heat is key for those pocket installations, but convection ovens and especially air fryers exhaust a lot of hot air; at least mine at home do. I am very interested in what model(s) you have and how you fit them into the galley cabinetry. Please share!
 
Rigtyme, for my benefit, the brand and model # please?
How wide is it ?
 
Any idea how many Amps it draws?

Up to 1650W (See attached), nominal 13.75W max @ 120v.

I've definitely seen that in the real-world while grilling or convection cooking. I think my observation has been less when microwaving. But I've never fully isolated it and tested. If I get a chance I'll try and do that.

It has always operated comfortably on a 15A breaker.
 

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The whirly-pop is also available in stainless steel for induction burners. If the pot's only use was as a popcorn maker, it probably wouldn't make it aboard our boat with limited storage. But the base is just the right size pot for boiling water for pasta, steaming clams, or a stew. A regular 9" lid (from Goodwill) fits the base. So we basically have a 9" induction stock pot that doubles as a popcorn maker later in the evening.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PPD975X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
My Sharp turn table microwave is 1200 watts and draws about 16amps. (120vt 15amp breaker on a 30amp boat)
I am not sure if can be operating while using an induction stove top or anything else.
I do have the microwave on an 1800watt inverter, switch from house buss to inverter, which can be cycled on and off while on the inverter. It has a tendency to suck the battery voltage quickly.
This configuration is while on shore power.
 
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here are my plan drawings: Hope the pictures are straight.
 

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Brilliant! I had not made the leap from trimming the factory opening a little taller to accommodate the model I have in mind to just changing the entire stack face and building shelves as needed. Love it! That also addresses access to the underside of the cooktop. Have you changed that out for something different too? Thanks, Barrie.
 
As previously mentioned, I switched out an electric stove top for a propane. It is fairly flat and most of it is on the counter, not below. The attached pictures shows the old stove coming out and you can see how thick the counter is. Also note the empty cavity below.
The other picture is not my boat but is my stove so you can see what it looks like. Mine is flush not sunken in.
 

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Ah now this is where the magic comes in. The tank is in the top side starboard locker. Fits perfectly and is legally vented and secure. The magic was finding a path down to the stove. I had to feed it down and then behind a small cavity to the right side of the fridge. There is a step from the outside that sticks into the room but is covered in wood trim. Just enough between for the hose to get through. Then down to the small cupboard at the bow end of the galley, under the draw and into the home space.
A 10 minute job that took all day. :dance:
 
I should mention that also installed are 3 gas sniffers; One up top next to the tank, one in the galley and one in the bilge.
 

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