chronic window leaking

[paulga]

it was not identified in the pre purchase examination. but it has been raining for two days, and I noticed grooves are wet in multiple windows (even with windows that remained shut during the rain). the water could slowly seep into the plywood below the window and form a discoloration area over time.

changing to aluminum frames is not on my road map. Is there a temp solution to stop the water coming in?

 

[Comodave]

In a previous boat, about 12 boats ago, we had teak window frames and they leaked. I made covers out of Stamoid since it is waterproof. I put an aluminum keder strip above the windows and a bolt rope on the canvas that slides into the aluminum strip. Then add snaps to the cabin sides to secure the canvas. They will keep all the rain off the windows so they won’t leak. I used white lightweight Stamoid so I would get light through it. Stamoid is very easy to sew and could even be sewn on a home sewing machine.

 

[tiltrider1]

Have you checked the drain holes? If they don’t drain properly they back up.

 

[Comodave]

Google aluminum awning rail. Sailrite sells both the aluminum strip and bolt rope that gets sewn onto the canvas. On Sailrite website it is called keder.

 

[paulga]

Is this the bolt rope?



does it threads into the alum strip as below?



is this the stamoid that is sewn to the bolt rope?

https://www.sailrite.com/Plastipane...3ZOzYiE78KOxveXrOwJgAs3Z3KecogpMaAi-5EALw_wcB

 

[SteveK]

window drain holes seem to clog often

 

[Comodave]

That is one version of keder, I prefer the aluminum one. The Stamoid is similar to Sunbrella but it is waterproof not water resistant. It is also smooth not woven like Sunbrella. Search Sailrite site for Stamoid.

 

[Choices]

What kind of boat?

 

[ktdtx]

I had one small, intermittent leak in a window and applied this a few times and it stopped the leak. I say it was this but I recall blue rather than red on the bottle but maybe packaging has changed. I don't think this would be appropriate for large leaks.



http://https://captaintolley.com/

 

[SteveK]

I had one small, intermittent leak in a window and applied this a few times and it stopped the leak. I say it was this but I recall blue rather than red on the bottle but maybe packaging has changed. I don't think this would be appropriate for large leaks.



http://https://captaintolley.com/

Your link does not work for me but I know the product well and can recommend it.

 

[NWSeadog]

Captain Tolleys also worked for me with wood framed windows.

Here is a link to the product on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-Sealer/dp/B003T6EJ9A/ref=asc_df_B003T6EJ9A?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80127027907630&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726554134288&psc=1

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Yep. Capt. Tolley for me.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

Another thumbs up for Capt. Tolley. It works great on tiny invisible openings. Big leaks can also be fixed, but it takes some fussing. I had large leaks on my forward windows. I could see that prior owners had tried a variety of goops but still leaked. I put down towels on the inside and put in a few drops of CT. The liquid went through the crack. Not to worry. Wait a day and do it again. After a few days, CT had built up enough layers that it sealed off the leak. CT is sort of like Elmer's Glue in that when wet it turns gummy, but still seals.

I had a similar experience with the forward hatch teak coaming. It leaked so bad that the V berth cushions would get wet. Put down towels and dropped in CT. I could tell where it was coming through, so I put some masking tape there to stop the through put. Kept applying CT until it the cracks couldn't take any more. Three years later, no issues.

 

[paulga]

What kind of boat?

MT sundeck 40'

 

[paulga]

I cannot see any cracks, only can see the inside groove is wet after the rain. where should I apply captain trolley?

 

[paulga]

That is one version of keder, I prefer the aluminum one. The Stamoid is similar to Sunbrella but it is waterproof not water resistant. It is also smooth not woven like Sunbrella. Search Sailrite site for Stamoid.

I saw stamoid material, it's not transparent. the vinyl window material that I posted earlier is transparent and also water proof. maybe it's easier to sew stamoid to the bolt rope than it is to somehow fix vinyl to the bolt rope?

 

[SteveK]

I cannot see any cracks, only can see the inside groove is wet after the rain. where should I apply captain trolley?

If the track is metal then at the ends, follow a path water would follow. If you see wood as well then wet the wood with the CT, once, twice even three times, until your leak stops.

 

[TJM]

You have to stop the water on the outside. If you plug the hole from the inside, water will still seep in but it will find a new path to run. Is the water build up on tracks of the sliding windows? I drilled my drain holes over size because they kept getting clogged with pollen and leaves,

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. p. I re-read your initial post. "Is there a temp solution...". For temporary you might simply apply butyl tape gobbed into, onto and around your window.


Upside is it's cheap, easily removable and you can use as much as you want without worry of contamination of your future repair site (window frame).


Downside is it IS only temporary, will have to be re-done and you won't be able to open your windows (with winter approaching that may be a good thing).


https://www.homedepot.com/p/50-ft-Butyl-Sealant-Tape-Roof-Accessory-in-Gray-99415/205945574


One caveat. This really cheap stuff WILL soften in the sun and get quite gooey BUT it IS temporary and cheap.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I cannot see any cracks, only can see the inside groove is wet after the rain. where should I apply captain trolley?

Don't use the applicator bottle. It is the type that you cut off the pointy end. That leaves too big of an opening and can't be applied carefully. CT is about the consistency of whole milk. It is easy to dribble out too much.

Get a syringe from a hobby shop that has a tiny hole. Fill with CT and then carefully leave a bead in suspect areas. It will disappear in some areas. That's where the water enters. Keep applying there, but like I said, watch so that if it goes all the way through you can catch it. Stop applying, wait a day and do it again. It took 3 or 4 applications for my bigger leaks. Once the crack is full of CT, there is no water entrance.

The tiny bead left in areas that didn't have cracks will simply dry up. I kept a damp towel with me because if you dribble some down the side of the cabin it can show up as a shiny streak if not removed immediately. Shoot the leftovers back in the bottle and rinse the syringe.

I had almost a full bottle left after doing my windows, so I did my teak deck. It was tedious running a bead down both edges of the old thiokol(?), but I found a few places where the deck accepted 5-10 drops while in other places what looked like cracks accepted nothing.

 

[paulga]

the outside bottom frame flushes with window screen, I cannot see where to apply the glue. Didn't see where is the drain hole either

Photo 1 is seen from inside. Photo 2 and 3 are outside. This window remains shut due to historical repairs. Yet the inside groove becomes wet after the rain

 

[SteveK]

If this was a grand banks the drain hole is at one or both ends of the inside/outside trough

 

[DBG8492]

Those look like the frames on my MT

If they're the same, then the "drains" are marked in the pic below. Although yours look like slots cut out of the frame. Mine are longish holes in the edge of the frame, but near those locations.

Mine were leaking not because of those holes being clogged, but because whatever was used to bed them (probably at the shipyard in Taiwan) had failed and somewhere along the line, someone thought it would be cool to put silicone around the outside edges.

If they are the same type, it's fairly easy(ish) to rebed them. Just pull all the screws from the outside edge, pry it out, scrape off all the old bedding, and use your compound of choice before putting them back.

But if they've been leaking for some time, it's likely the wood on the bottom of the cutout is going to be rotten - at least some of it. I have a few where I'm going to have to replace large chunks of plywood. But if it's just the top couple of inches, you could opt to use some clear penetrating epoxy to try to fix it before rebedding.

 

[TJM]

Many years ago, before I repaired my windows, I applied the external shrink wrap from Frost King. This is the house hold item that people use to seal up drafty windows, apply the tape on the frame and use a hair dryer to shrink it tight. Seal is on the outside to prevent any further water intrusion.
If you are wintering aboard you will NEED to do this also. Heating the inside will cause a lot of condensation, dripping water kind.

 

[paulga]

Many years ago, before I repaired my windows, I applied the external shrink wrap from Frost King. This is the house hold item that people use to seal up drafty windows, apply the tape on the frame and use a hair dryer to shrink it tight. Seal is on the outside to prevent any further water intrusion.
If you are wintering aboard you will NEED to do this also. Heating the inside will cause a lot of condensation, dripping water kind.

the drawback is the windows cannot be used for ventilation if sealed this way.

without ventilation, the air smells diesel. my towel and shirt already smell like diesel. it would be worse w/o ventilation daily.

 

[paulga]

Those look like the frames on my MT

If they're the same, then the "drains" are marked in the pic below. Although yours look like slots cut out of the frame. Mine are longish holes in the edge of the frame, but near those locations.

Mine were leaking not because of those holes being clogged, but because whatever was used to bed them (probably at the shipyard in Taiwan) had failed and somewhere along the line, someone thought it would be cool to put silicone around the outside edges.

If they are the same type, it's fairly easy(ish) to rebed them. Just pull all the screws from the outside edge, pry it out, scrape off all the old bedding, and use your compound of choice before putting them back.

But if they've been leaking for some time, it's likely the wood on the bottom of the cutout is going to be rotten - at least some of it. I have a few where I'm going to have to replace large chunks of plywood. But if it's just the top couple of inches, you could opt to use some clear penetrating epoxy to try to fix it before rebedding.

i didn't pay attention if there are screws on the outside. will check later. how to test if the holes are clogged?

 

[SteveK]

the drawback is the windows cannot be used for ventilation if sealed this way.

without ventilation, the air smells diesel. my towel and shirt already smell like diesel. it would be worse w/o ventilation daily.

Either you have a very good nose or you have a diesel leak to stop. My first diesel was a sail, then GB, now Bayliner and the only time the admiral complainted I found a leak, fixed and all good.

Ventilation is good, but should not be IMO because you smell diesel.

 

[paulga]

during the trip we changed racor filters and the secondary filters. there are two gallon bottles of drained fuel and some saturated fuel pads onboard that I'm going to dispose of. I usually can also smell diesel when I get on board. I thought it's vapor through the vent.

I didn't find fuel puddles in the bilge. the water around the bilge pump appears dirty with lots of bubbles every time I turn on the bilge pump. could that be leaked fuel? the tanks gauges read 17 starboard and 20 portside. will keep monitoring.

 

[SteveK]

sealed bottles probably not, The rags are bigtime source of smell, as is any spillage during the process, at times unseen unless it is floating in bilge water.

 

[Comodave]

I saw stamoid material, it's not transparent. the vinyl window material that I posted earlier is transparent and also water proof. maybe it's easier to sew stamoid to the bolt rope than it is to somehow fix vinyl to the bolt rope?

No, Stamoid isn’t see through. The lighter weight white will let light into the boat. You put the window cover on when you aren’t on the boat or when it is raining. Takes a minute to do a window. Then you will stop the rain from getting on the window completely. It also keeps UV out of the boat and helps protect the interior.