Recommendations on a crimper?

[exmaggiedrum]

Pro tool

If you want a no nonsense quality crimper that the pro’s use. Thomas & Betts


https://www.zoro.com/sta-kon-crimper-22-to-10-awg-9-58-l-wt111m/i/G2486626/

I was a pro and this is the crimper I used almost exclusively on smaller gauge wires (10-16ga). I started out trying to use ratcheting crimpers but found that they are almost impossible to use in tight spots. And it is also very easy to think you have a good crimp when you don't since you can't see where the jaws are or where the crimp is sometimes. You can have the crimp in the right spot but the wire is not in all the way. Or you can have the wire in but the jaws are over the end of the crimp and not where they should be.


The worst case is when you think you have a good crimp but it is only the insulation part of the crimp that is holding on to the wire and the wire is not inside the crimp all the way.



With the non-ratcheting crimper you have to have enough hand strength to do a good crimp but I have found that after doing a lot of crimps, the ratcheting crimpers gave me horrible hand cramps.



With the model shown here you have as much visibility as you can ever have to get the jaws on the right place and the wire all the way in. You have to make two crimps on each side (depending on the type of crimp). The one on the wire is the most critical one. The insulation grabbing crimp does not take as much pressure.


Which ever crimper you use - absolutely - give every crimp a good tug on the wire to make sure it is a strong crimp. It can look perfect and not be good at all.



Heat shrink terminals can resist corrosion longer but they do not make a better crimp connection wire to wire. If you use them, give the crimp a good tug before you shrink the tubing otherwise you may think you have a good crimp and don't.

 

[psneeld]

I agree...for smaller, non-adhesive/shrink tube fittings the linked crimps are adequate.... The marine electronics firm I worked for...that's that they used much of the time but did use the ratcheting crimpers with special dies for antenna connectors and other unusual connectors. Large ga wire, say 10 and above, sure ratcheting can be better...

 

[McDan]

No place to ‘scrimp’!

I'm going to have a LOT of electrical work in my near future, with a lot of crimping involved. I just bought a new, relatively inexpensive crimper on Amazon, and picked one that was advertised for "insulated terminals" - but it still doesn't seem to be a good fit for the typical connectors that I'm using.

I'm planning to use ring terminals and butt connectors, ideally the really good ones that have adhesive in them, and heatshrink.

Is there a "good", "reasonably priced" (maybe under $50), "ratcheting" crimper that I might be able to find on Amazon or similar that will work for this?

Especially for the small ones, I can get the job done with a pair of vice grips - but I'm sure there's got to be a much better answer than that... And I'm curious to see how much groaning and grief I'll get over even mentioning vice grips!! <grin>

John

Pun intended, this is no place to ‘scrimp’. A good crimp is a ‘cold weld’, the metals are crushed together just so much but enough the make them become ‘one’.
Your worst nightmare would be to have numerous- or all- your crimps prove unreliable, and that’s the correct word.
Unreliable means ‘ok’ until the load makes the joint hot, or corrosion gets in, or mechanical forces pull the wire(s) out. (movement is always the enemy, secure your wiring well)
It’s also best to match the tool to the crimps. Eg: I have an AMP ratcheting crimper which by design impresses ‘crimp quality’ markings on the crimp insulating sleeves but AMP is out of business and those markings usually don’t arise from other mfr’s products.
Spend wisely and enjoy the results.

 

[Playin Hooky]

The difference between a proper crimp and a problematic crimp which will fail and generate heat is measured in thousandths of an inch. Do you trust the tolerances in the tool you are using? IMO this is not a good place to pinch pennies. Sta-Kon, Thomas & Betts, Greenlee, Klein are trusted brands that specialize in electrical tools. Electrical wholesale houses will usually rent out tools needed for larger connections.

 

[catalinajack]

That tool is of the same type and design that I once saw recommended by Steve D'Antonio. I use the Channel Lock product.

I was a pro and this is the crimper I used almost exclusively on smaller gauge wires (10-16ga). I started out trying to use ratcheting crimpers but found that they are almost impossible to use in tight spots. And it is also very easy to think you have a good crimp when you don't since you can't see where the jaws are or where the crimp is sometimes. You can have the crimp in the right spot but the wire is not in all the way. Or you can have the wire in but the jaws are over the end of the crimp and not where they should be.


The worst case is when you think you have a good crimp but it is only the insulation part of the crimp that is holding on to the wire and the wire is not inside the crimp all the way.



With the non-ratcheting crimper you have to have enough hand strength to do a good crimp but I have found that after doing a lot of crimps, the ratcheting crimpers gave me horrible hand cramps.



With the model shown here you have as much visibility as you can ever have to get the jaws on the right place and the wire all the way in. You have to make two crimps on each side (depending on the type of crimp). The one on the wire is the most critical one. The insulation grabbing crimp does not take as much pressure.


Which ever crimper you use - absolutely - give every crimp a good tug on the wire to make sure it is a strong crimp. It can look perfect and not be good at all.



Heat shrink terminals can resist corrosion longer but they do not make a better crimp connection wire to wire. If you use them, give the crimp a good tug before you shrink the tubing otherwise you may think you have a good crimp and don't.

 

[CharlieJ]

To hopefully add to the discussion, here are some details re: crimping terminations on AWG 10 > AWG 20 wire:
1. Properly designed ratcheting crimpers generally have two anvils per crimp location for use on non-heat shrink connections. The two anvils that create the smaller gap crimp the barrel of the termination and the stripped wire. The two anvils that create the slightly larger gap crimp the insulation and the barrel of the termination to create a strain relief.
2. Properly designed ratcheting crimpers for use with heat shrink terminations have a single anvil to crimp the barrel of the termination and the stripped wire. There is no need for the second set of anvils because the heat shrink sleeve , when shrunk, provides strain relief.

I will not use the Klein type crimpers referenced above

https://www.zoro.com/sta-kon-crimper-22-to-10-awg-9-58-l-wt111m/i/G2486626/

for two reasons:
1. When used on non-heat shrink terminations, two crimping operations are required; the first for crimping the barrel to the conductor and the second for crimping the barrel and the termination insulation.
2. Mechanically, this crimper will work on heat shrink terminations since they have a shorter barrel and no mechanical strain relief capability. However, the Klein type crimper can, and often does, break through the insulation during the crimping process which compromises the insulating (non-heat shrink) and water resistance (heat shrink) function of either type of termination.

For interest's sake, per ABYC E-11 Table 15, here are the tensile pull test requirements for crimped connections:
AWG 18/10#; AWG 16/15#; AWG 14/30#; AWG 12/35#; AWG 10/40#

 

[psneeld]

To hopefully add to the discussion, here are some details re: crimping terminations on AWG 10 > AWG 20 wire:
1. Properly designed ratcheting crimpers generally have two anvils per crimp location for use on non-heat shrink connections. The two anvils that create the smaller gap crimp the barrel of the termination and the stripped wire. The two anvils that create the slightly larger gap crimp the insulation and the barrel of the termination to create a strain relief.
2. Properly designed ratcheting crimpers for use with heat shrink terminations have a single anvil to crimp the barrel of the termination and the stripped wire. There is no need for the second set of anvils because the heat shrink sleeve , when shrunk, provides strain relief.

I will not use the Klein type crimpers referenced above for two reasons:
1. When used on non-heat shrink terminations, two crimping operations are required; the first for crimping the barrel to the conductor and the second for crimping the barrel and the termination insulation.
2. Mechanically, this crimper will work on heat shrink terminations since they have a shorter barrel and no mechanical strain relief capability. However, the Klein type crimper can, and often does, break through the insulation during the crimping process which compromises the insulating (non-heat shrink) and water resistance (heat shrink) function of either type of termination.

For interest's sake, per ABYC E-11 Table 15, here are the tensile pull test requirements for crimped connections:
AWG 18/10#; AWG 16/15#; AWG 14/30#; AWG 12/35#; AWG 10/40#

I use the Klien type tool on terminals with only the barrel and no insulation whatsoever...so the double crimp argument is only correct for some terminals out there.


The heat shrink is a secondary operation.


With care.... the connections meet, probaby exceed the ABYC pull test. As you get to neat 10ga, yes I bet the consistency goes down on exceeding the pull test.

 

[CharlieJ]

I use the Klien type tool on terminals with only the barrel and no insulation whatsoever...so the double crimp argument is only correct for some terminals out there.

OK, but just to be fair, in 20 years of marine electrical work, I can't remember the last time that I saw uninsulated terminations in the AWG 20-10 range (red, blue and yellow).

 

[psneeld]

OK, but just to be fair, in 20 years of marine electrical work, I can't remember the last time that I saw uninsulated terminations in the AWG 20-10 range (red, blue and yellow).

Easily ordered on line with a good variety like hooks and captive forks.


When I upgraded to my new 50A 125/250V panel and completely rewired AC/DC...I knew I would need a lot of 10 to 14 ga terminals.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

OK, but just to be fair, in 20 years of marine electrical work, I can't remember the last time that I saw uninsulated terminations in the AWG 20-10 range (red, blue and yellow).

Agreed, rare as hen's teeth. In marine application I simply don't see un-insulated terminals in this size range.

 

[diver dave]

It would seem that terminals that end up being heat shrunk have a better start as non- insulated.
In fact, I’ve ripped off a lot of pvc and nylon sleeves from insulated terminals. They would otherwise leave a lot of air space under the HS tube.