Bilge pump float switch

[Beach House]

I have a question.
Scenario:
Bilge pump runs continuously.
No leaks.
Checked pump and switch for debris.
Manual pressure to close float switch did not turn pump off.
Float switch plastic appeared to be degraded. No idea of age (2000 Mainship, owned for two years)
Hardwired to battery with warning light but no switch.
Guessing the switch is bad and since we are anchored out in benign waters decided to remove wire to disable.

Question:
Did I miss something and if not, should I preventively replace the other float switches in the boat

Thanks for your thoughts,
Kathy

 

[SoWhat]

Rule style switches are notoriously unreliable. Ultra switches are a better product.

 

[caltexflanc]

Ultra Pumpswitch is what you want. Pricey but a one-time buy. After having to replace two Rules and SureBail with them, I went ahead and preemptively switched out the remaining 4 (that's right, a total of 7).

 

[sledge]

Float switches, both mechanical and electronic, can look clean and normal but still fail. The quickest way for you to confirm (if you're not hiring a service tech) is to go ahead and replace that non-working switch and see if it solves the problem. Some people like the electronic or more pricey ones but others have good luck with Rule basic mechanicals. Your other switches might have a very long life, its hard to predict. IMHO it's good practice to simply carry 1 or 2 spare float switches in your inventory on the boat.

 

[Beach House]

Float switch

Thanks for your replies, much appreciated.
Kathy

 

[SoWhat]

ps - should be wired to manual/auto switch and a fuse.
if something jammed the motor it would continue to draw current. The pump will melt and possibly catch fire. Fuse is a critical safety item.

 

[Barking Sands]

Thanks for the Ultra Switch info. Just did some research and then ordered mine. Looks promising.

 

[Lou_tribal]

With some basic electronic knowledge you can make your own ultra switch for less than 20 bucks.

L

 

[Barking Sands]

A switch of that type is about as basic as it gets for electrical knowledge...yes. But the mechanical portion IMO is actually never that simple. Even just a float in a tube with a couple contacts needs to be thoroughly tested before being deemed reliable.

From my brief research on the Ultra..the basic switch has been deemed reliable for many years. Ill pay the extra to save me the time.

But I would not be truthful if I didnt concede that my first thought was that I could make one for pennies...lol.

 

[psneeld]

Not for pennies but industrial and scientific float switches abound.

My problem was finding one with a decent range of on/off levels...many are only less than an inch which results in rapid cycling.

I have one in a sale brine tank that has worked for years, but only has an inch or so water level trigger...it was something like $15 bucks.

 

[CharlieJ]

I recommend the WaterWitch capacitive coupling switch. Even commercial fishermen cannot destroy them!!

Seven year warranty and used by the Canadian and US Coast Guard.

Full disclosure: I have been a dealer and an installer for about 15 years and have never had one fail.

Link: https://waterwitchinc.com/

 

[psneeld]

water witch was dismal 18 years ago, we were dealers and every one was returned.

Hope they are better...

 

[Simi 60]

We have rule float switch on the main bilge pump.
I think the trick is to never let it see water.

We have a ball float with 20mm PVC tube in it pushing up though slightly larger PVC tube and that is what activates the float switch which is mounted a few feet higher than the water level.

 

[boating rich]

That is a cool idea with the ball float. Thanks for sharing.

 

[LongJohn]

In my experience, Ultras do not perform well in fresh water.

 

[catalinajack]

Rule switches are notoriously bad. I have accepted that axiom and have purchased other switches (Johnson, Ultra) but I am still waiting for the Rule switches in my main bilge and my shower sump to fail. I bought the boat 6.5 years ago and have no idea how old they truly are. So, what am I to think? In the case of the shower sump, we have lived aboard for four years and use the shower almost daily. Am not saying Rule switches are not junk, just that I have not seen a failure even in heavy use.

Rule style switches are notoriously unreliable. Ultra switches are a better product.

 

[Barking Sands]

We have rule float switch on the main bilge pump.
I think the trick is to never let it see water.

We have a ball float with 20mm PVC tube in it pushing up though slightly larger PVC tube and that is what activates the float switch which is mounted a few feet higher than the water level.

Love it. Excellent idea.

 

[rslifkin]

I agree that floats that don't get wet are much more reliable. At this point, my lowest pumps that remove stuffing box drips, etc. have built in sensors with no moving floats (Whale Supersub Smart pumps). The rest of my pumps have float switches, but the only time they get wet is if I turn off the lower pumps and flood the bilge to test the upper pumps. The Whale built in switches seem to be good compared to most of the electronic switch complaints I read. They work fine in fresh water (even when filling the bilge with a hose). And I've yet to have any kind of dirt or grime stop the thing from working.

That said, the most reliable float I've ever seen was the unknown brand rolling ball type float Chris Craft installed when my boat was built. Lasted 34 years of switching the primary pump to remove drips, etc. with no failures. I only removed it because I was making some design changes to the bilge pump setup and didn't have a use for it anymore. There's another of those same switches in my forward bilge, but that one is normally dry (and confirmed working).

 

[CharlieJ]

I had Ultra Pump Switches in my boat for years. The biggest disadvantage was that it is difficult to manually test them for operation.

I removed them about 15 years ago and, as discussed in #11 above, installed WaterWitch switches. I have installed these exclusively for at least 15 years in my clients' boats and have never had a failure. They are backed by a seven year warranty.

 

[Beach House]

Float switch

Thanks again for all the replies. Good info. I will most likely go with Waterwitch.

 

[Ross Macdonald]

I finally gave up on rule float switches. They are worthless. I rewired the rule 2000 pump to a manual push pull on off switch with easy access and after a shower just pull the switch and drain the sump. We are fortunate to have a very large capacity sump.

 

[Brooksie]

The Groco (#109 I think) is, by far the best bilge pump switch for at least 8-10 reasons. I think PAR makes a similar switch.
Some electronic switches won't react to rainwater, shower water, with oil, dog hair. You don't want your switch putting 12v+ into your bilge water either, which many flipper type switches will do. The "try for water" type pumps wake you all night.

I have had my boat on a mooring since 1974 and rely totally on my pump switch and it is still the same switch that came with the '71 boat.

 

[HopCar]

Thanks again for all the replies. Good info. I will most likely go with Waterwitch.

I was a Water Witch dealer also. They were pretty reliable in clean salt water. The problem is that oil in the bilge can coat the contacts and render them useless. Keep your bilge clean.

 

[HopCar]

The Groco (#109 I think) is, by far the best bilge pump switch for at least 8-10 reasons. I think PAR makes a similar switch.
Some electronic switches won't react to rainwater, shower water, with oil, dog hair. You don't want your switch putting 12v+ into your bilge water either, which many flipper type switches will do. The "try for water" type pumps wake you all night.

I have had my boat on a mooring since 1974 and rely totally on my pump switch and it is still the same switch that came with the '71 boat.

I’m a big fan of Groco but not their bilge switch. It’s just cad plated steel with a snap over rubber cover. If I were going to use that type of switch I’d choose the Jabsco PAR. The switch is enclosed in a sealed plastic housing. I’m surprised yours hasn’t rusted out. Maybe I’m being too harsh on the Groco switch.

It’s an interesting design but I never tried it. I was worried that the small air tube would get blocked. I do like the idea that the switch mechanism is out of the water.

 

[HopCar]

In my experience, Ultras do not perform well in fresh water.

What happens in fresh water that doesn’t happen in salt?

 

[Brooksie]

I’m a big fan of Groco but not their bilge switch. It’s just cad plated steel with a snap over rubber cover. If I were going to use that type of switch I’d choose the Jabsco PAR. The switch is enclosed in a sealed plastic housing. I’m surprised yours hasn’t rusted out. Maybe I’m being too harsh on the Groco switch.

It’s an interesting design but I never tried it. I was worried that the small air tube would get blocked. I do like the idea that the switch mechanism is out of the water.

The Groco switch doesn't even have to me mounted in the bilge so no need for fancy metallurgy or coverings. The tube never gets blocked b/c no water goes in the tube.
Rain water isn't conductive enough for electronic switches some say it in the instructions some let you find out yourself. The will not turn on reliably in oily water nor will they turn off reliably in water with dog/people hair in it.
My boat is on a mooring, I cant afford to have it "stick" off or on and it never has. Don't knock what you haven't tried.
I am no fan of Groco in general b/c they treated me badly in their seacock recall

 

[Catbird]

Jabsco Hydro Air Bilge Switch

Mercury-Free Air Pressure Operated Automatic Bilge Switch
Nominal Voltage: 12 Volt DC, Max. Current Draw: 20 Amps
Ultra Reliable and Safe, No Submerged Electrical Components