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Old 03-19-2017, 11:10 AM   #41
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When you fix nuts using epoxy what is your technique not to get epoxy coming into the nut? Any secret tip or advice?
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:47 AM   #42
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Lou, several ways to keep the threads clear: 1, be neat! 2, wax, or Teflon Slip Spray, the bolt, wet out the recess with neat epoxy, install the washer and the nut and the bolt, fill the remaining space with thickened epoxy. You're only doing this to keep the nut from turning on final assembly; the nut and washer are doing their job from the backside of the assembly. 3, on large items you can wrap the threads with Teflon tape. 4, remove the bolt when the epoxy is stiff enough, but not so stiff that you cannot get the bolt out, and clean out any mess after cure with a tap.

One more nut type: The threaded insert suitable for relatively light loads is knurled and often sold for use with undermount sinks in solid countertops. You epoxy the insert into a bore in the bottom of the countertop.

These things actually come in all sorts of sizes and materials. They're often sold for retaining the rock in mines and tunnels; stick the bolt and insert package into the hole, turn it to mix the epoxy, wait for the cure, tighten the bolt. Remember the threaded inserts epoxied into the concrete tunnels on "The Big Dig" in Boston? They were used to carry concrete ceiling panels but were fatally proven inadequate because of bad epoxy.
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:47 AM   #43
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I use a threaded screw/bolt into the epoxied nut to keep the threads protected. Then I remove the screw/bolt after the epoxy has set up and before it's completely hardened.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:08 AM   #44
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Thank you D & Al for these tip.
I read on another forum a guy was filling the nut thread with vaseline before setting it in epoxy, I rather prefer your tip of using a bolt and remove it before epoxy is hardened.

L.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:58 AM   #45
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Just thinking outside the box here, but that looks like a big surfboard. If it was me, I'd be tempted to visit a local surf shop and ask where is the best local board builder, and bring your swim deck over to him for a conversation.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:36 PM   #46
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Too easy, A-2010.

And, I'm having too much fun. On to layout for cutting, cutting hand holes, locating the spacer blocks, fitting the ends.
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:17 PM   #47
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Final gluing done today. Decided to glue all the bits together and t'hell with the forces due to expansion due to water. But, I pinned/doweled the perimeter joints with 3/8" fiberglass rod (McMaster-Carr). A certain bit of fun was had since, due to springback of the curved laminations, fitting could only be done when the long, curved pieces were clamped. The fun continued while fitting the pins and gluing; epoxy had to be applied and the perimeter pieces simultaneously slid inwards together. I cheated; the pin holes are 7/16" and the pins are 3/8"; epoxy takes up the annular space for a 'perfect' fit. See the 'dress rehearsal' pics and others taken over the last few days.

Sanding and cutting the corners to round tomorrow, then it's off to the boat.
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2017-03-22 SwimPlatform 001.jpg   2017-03-23 SwimPlatform 001.jpg   2017-03-24 SwimPlatform 001.jpg   2017-03-25 SwimPlatform 001.jpg   2017-03-25 SwimPlatform 003.jpg  

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Old 03-26-2017, 05:04 PM   #48
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Beautiful! Will you oil it or leave it natural?
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:40 AM   #49
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One comment: WOW!

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Old 03-27-2017, 06:01 AM   #50
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straight up cool. Good work!
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