Marine Hot Water Tank

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I just replaced a 23 year old raritan 20gallon with another Raritan 20 gallon. It was an exact replacement, which made it easy. We replaced because it started leaking out of the bottom of the tank, not sure how often the PO replaced the annode, but still, 23 years sounds good to me for a water heater.
 
4mo
Thanks for the reply. I completely agree, 23 years for any HWT is good value.
Another for Raritan.
 
Another vote for Isotemp Spa 40. Stays hot a long time. Great for the two of us. 5+ years.
 
Thanks Mike, You’re the first for the Isotemp!
 
I was looking at the Isotemp units, and I think they would be fine. But they simply did not fit into the space that I wanted to use. In other cases their different form-factor could be a plus.
 
I agree Brian. The space is the big issue as I have approx 20” X 22” to fit the tank. Height is about 36”. Torrid’s 15 gal is about 16” X 24” provided the fittings don’t get in the way.
 
Most marine water heaters (regardless of whats on the outside) are aluminum tanks surrounded by fiberglass batting, inside a metal box.

The vast majority don't last nearly as long as they should due to improper installation.

Most are installed directly on a flat surface. Any leaks, drips, humidity collecting under the tank is absorbed by the fiberglass batting. This causes poultice corrosion of the aluminum and leads to a shorter life span.

The simple expedient of a couple of non-absorbent (plastic) 1/2" battens to create some air space under the tank will lead to a much longer lifespan.
 
I think the idea of raising the tank (regardless of what it is made of) is a sound idea to allow air to circulate. The addition of a drain hose as well makes sense.
Thanks BoatPoker.
I will include these ideas in the install.

Brent
 
Fractalphreak
Great information regarding the heating element being 750 watts! My wife and I were talking about the same thing. Our Phase III does not have a generator, only solar, so in the event that we are at a marina, then a 30 amp shore connection would be needed. Don’t think this should be an issue.
For your ISO Temp, do you think there would be any issues in acquiring parts if needed?
I think Raritan is out due to it’s diameter. Torrid I think is still a front runner.
Thanks again for the in depth reply.
 
Torrid.

Our 30 gal water heater was original to the boat (1989) and finally gave up the ghost in 2017. Jeff from Torrid (headquartered on Bainbridge Island WA) brought the new replacement unit down to our boat while we were dockside on Bainbridge and took the old and away for factory analysis.

Excellent product, excellent customer service.
 
We installed an 8 gallon Isotemp from Sure Marine last winter. It worked well this season. It has a mix-it valve and it heats much faster than the old Seaward from the heat exchange on the engine. It retains heat really well. It comes in several sizes and 120 or 230 volt, and the bonus is Sure Marine is great to deal with.
 
Thanks Simi 60. Power can be an issue with us especially when winter boating as we only have solar, no Gen.

Brent
 
We installed an 8 gallon Isotemp from Sure Marine last winter. It worked well this season. It has a mix-it valve and it heats much faster than the old Seaward from the heat exchange on the engine. It retains heat really well. It comes in several sizes and 120 or 230 volt, and the bonus is Sure Marine is great to deal with.

Thanks Playin Hooky!
My wife and I started looking into Isotemp and Torrid more in depth and what is very interesting is both offer dual heat exchangers. This could be a huge bonus for us in that we can run engine coolant through one exchanger and coolant from our Espar heater through the other!.
I had posted a previous thread titled Need More Hot Water.
This may be a solution.
 
Buy the cheapest one that will do the trick. You will have sold the boat long before any of them bake.
 
Fractalphreak
Great information regarding the heating element being 750 watts! My wife and I were talking about the same thing. Our Phase III does not have a generator, only solar, so in the event that we are at a marina, then a 30 amp shore connection would be needed. Don’t think this should be an issue.
For your ISO Temp, do you think there would be any issues in acquiring parts if needed?
I think Raritan is out due to it’s diameter. Torrid I think is still a front runner.
Thanks again for the in depth reply.

One positive for the smaller element - when you are at a dock using shore power, especially in winter when you might want to run a dehumidifier or electric resistance heater, or a shop vac doing projects, or all of the above:whistling:, is the hot water heater might be able to stay on and not put you close to tripping the master breaker, or straining the 30 amp connections...

Interesting comment on your power availability. A thought I've had (or rather slight regret) is not thinking the gallons/element wattage/solar thing out before purchasing the 11 gallon size.

We have put together an approx 1000 w solar system for NWD. Depending on just how much power we generate during our summer cruising trips, the possibility exists that we could run the hot water tank from the inverter during peak solar input times without really draining the batteries. I wouldn't want to try that with a 1500 watt element, but 750 on our 2500 watt inverter should not be that taxing...IF I'd bought a smaller tank, say the 25 L size (6.6 gal) the time required to heat water from 70 F to 160 F drops to 1 hr 45 min from the theoretical 3 hr 15 min we need to account for with the 40 L size (10.5 gal) Not sure if solar will be able to do it; we should would like to minimize the generator if we can. Of course, as in my previous post there is room for hot water efficiencies aboard that may help our situation....

If you have a hydronic heating system I would sure look into taking advantage of that as a source of heating your water. I don't know the ins and outs of it as our diesel heat is forced air; but it sure would be nice to have hot water without having to worry about a lot of amps AC for a couple hours.

No issues for us here in WA for parts. Like Playin Hooky we deal with Sure Marine in Seattle; I believe they carry all the parts we would likely need. Knowing their customer service, if they didn't have it they'd get it quick. Usually they've already encountered whatever issues might occur and have parts and experience ready to help. (It is the type of business you can call for help and the guy who answers the phone knows exactly what you did wrong in disassembling your Webasto for cleaning and can tell you what you failed to plug back together all the way when you reassembled it!) Sure Marine has a website for online sales, and Isotherm is a worldwide company, so I'm guessing any country with a sizable boating community will have vendors for parts...
 
Thanks Simi 60. Power can be an issue with us especially when winter boating as we only have solar, no Gen.

Brent
Most of the year ours is done on solar, but we have 2.2kw of it
Gen rarely used.
 
I searched manuals and web for an anode for my Isotherm...could find the part or location on diagrams.

So far my Isotherm gets 4.5 stars.....the only issue with me is it has a proprietary ( but thermally protected) heating element.
 
We have a raritan original to our 1996 boat. Still going strong. Only replaced one dripping expansion valve and a new anode.
 
Don't rule out high quality glass lines steel tanks like those from Raritan and Torrid, these days failures for those are pretty darn rare, especially if you change the anodes every few years. On the other hand, I would avoid any water heater that uses an aluminum tank.
More on water heaters here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/WaterSystemsPt2-153-03.pdf

Also, don't be fooled by some water heaters that have a stainless outer shell, billed as "stainless steel" with a tank that's not stainless.
 
We've been using a 6 gal GE water heater from Home Depot since 2007. Cost at the time was $189.95. Takes about 10-12 min of generator running time to heat the water very hot and we can easily get 2 showers (with hair washing) from one tank of hot water. We change the anode every 2-3 years just because...
 
We replaced ours with a small Whirlpool from Lowes; much cheaper and it works fine.
 
I'm just finishing up installing at 10 gal Torrid on my GB32. It has the 'heft' of good quality and they have a great reputation. As an anecdote about how the old one failed, we were out for a day cruise and noticed there was no water coming from the faucet in the head. Then I noticed the bilge pump counter showed the pump had been going off many times. Turns out, the old Isotemp had corroded out and drained into the bilge. The fresh water pump then dutiful emptied the fresh water tank thru the void. No harm done, though. I just ended up with a well flushed bilge! (I had already been using ZCare bilge cleaner, so there wasn't much oily junk left).
 
Anyone seen a solar thermal system for trawlers with panel on deckbridge and plumbed into hot water tank in ER or lazarette with a circulating pump?
 
hot water

I have a Paloma on demand water heater been on the boat for 30 yrs if you have propane its a great unit.small mounts on the wall as much hot water as you want.
 
Dear Mystic Dreamer, yes, that's an option I have looked at too...but a small solar thermal panel, plumbing, and pump costs likely about as much, no fuel cost, no propane to manage safety wise...
 
I have a Paloma on demand water heater been on the boat for 30 yrs if you have propane its a great unit.small mounts on the wall as much hot water as you want.

While I understand it's been working well for you for a long time, just so others know, none of the on demand apartment-type propane water heaters meet ABYC Standards. These, not the Paloma specifically, have been responsible for several cruiser CO deaths.
 
New to Hot Water Heaters in Boats

This is not a reply, but rather a question since we are on the topic...We just bought the GB32 a couple years ago. There has been plenty time to figure tis out but I have had other fish to fry. The hot water heater works well but the triple breaker on the panel is taped off. Somebody said the electric aspect does not work so it was taped off. If so, how can I test it to see if that is true? Just flip the breaker and see what happens when plugged in to 110 shore power? Secondly, I have had the yard winterize the boat and do not understand what to do regarding the excess redpop you need to put into the system to fill the water heater Does one have to put in a bypass? or can you drain the heater somehow first? Incidentally, I winterize both my 135 and the genset myself. That is no problem, having had a sailboat for years, but I am just not up to speed on water systems. Moreover, I just do not trust most of these yard dudes with those engines. Ideas?
 
This is not a reply, but rather a question since we are on the topic...We just bought the GB32 a couple years ago. There has been plenty time to figure tis out but I have had other fish to fry. The hot water heater works well but the triple breaker on the panel is taped off. Somebody said the electric aspect does not work so it was taped off. If so, how can I test it to see if that is true? Just flip the breaker and see what happens when plugged in to 110 shore power? Secondly, I have had the yard winterize the boat and do not understand what to do regarding the excess redpop you need to put into the system to fill the water heater Does one have to put in a bypass? or can you drain the heater somehow first? Incidentally, I winterize both my 135 and the genset myself. That is no problem, having had a sailboat for years, but I am just not up to speed on water systems. Moreover, I just do not trust most of these yard dudes with those engines. Ideas?

To test it I would check the wiring first and see if there is voltage at the tank rather than just turning it on. If there is voltage then fill the tank with water and turn it on and see if it works.

Before winterizing, you should put the water heater in bypass mose and drain it of water, then winterize the water piping by either blowing it out or adding antifreeze to the tanks and pumping it through the system. If you have a bypass system there should be a valve on the water in and out that will let you bypass the heater.
 
If you want to retain heat in a water heater, add insulation around the heater, bottom, top and water lines. The stock insulation isn't great.

I use a 50 gallon house water heater. It sits on 2" foam with foam all around including the top. Both hot and cold lines are insulated, the cold for ten feet. It holds enough heat for daily showers and cooking for 2 days, 2 people (depending on how much water you use).
 
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