Weebles in La Paz Baja (MEX)

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mvweebles

Guru
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
7,248
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Weebles
Vessel Make
1970 Willard 36 Trawler
It's been 3-weeks since we left Ensenada with the Baja Ha Ha fleet and we are now anchored in La Paz, something close to 900 nms away from Ensenada. Time for some random thoughts.

Weve averaged around 6.4 kts, burned around 1.4 gph. I don't track these very closely so best-guesstimate.

Longest leg was Leg 1 from Ensenada to Turtle Bay, about 250 nms - two overnights. Overall, have done 4 or 5 overnight runs so far. We are a crew of two.

We keep a defined watch schedule. I fade early so Cheryll takes 8PM-11PM, I take 11PM-2AM; Cheryll 2AM-4AM; and I take 4AM to 7PM. I take the linon's share of the night watches is fine by me. Daytime is a bit more flexible. We have found that if we don't keep a watch schedule, what invariably happens is we both need a break at the same time. Overall, having just two aboard has been easier than we thought. And our boat is a small 36-footer so a third person would be difficult.

Maintenance and repairs. A recent thread on Diesel Ducks asked why so many of them come up for sale so quickly? I'm not sure that's true, but if it is, I suspect that newbie entrants to long distance cruising vastly miscalculate the mechanical aptitude and effort needed to keep a boat running. If you either don't enjoy working on boats are do not posess the ability, long distance cruising will be scary, frustrating, and your destinations severely limited. This goes way beyond single/twin debate. This is about keeping refrigeration cold, pumps pumping, watermakers making water, generator generating, inverters inverting, solar charging, etc. It's an endless list of to-dos, some more serious than others. I don't know why this topic is so rarely discussed on this forum (and other forums). But the amount of mechancial work required to keep a boat moving is astonishing.

We both started the trip with the Flu which sucked. Cheryll was slower to recover than I was, but for the first 4-5 days, we barely ate. Frankly, we still haven't eaten much and when we do, tends to be one meal for the day. Our appetites have evolved and adapted which is fine. Cheryll has developed a sciatica (sp?_ issue that has made getting on/off boat to dinghy sometimes difficult (we have not been to a marina since we left Ensenada).

In a few days, we'll hop to the mainland side of Mexico and start meandering south to Mazatlan. We've enjoyed being part of the Ha Ha fleet and highly recommend it to others, but frankly, we look forward to getting outside the Gringo Zone of Baja. The influence of Americans has been surprising to us - Ensenada, despite being a mere 80-miles south of San Diego area, seemed more authentically Mexican than La Paz (and certainly Cabo, though both are thoroughly Mexican once you get a half-mile inland from the marinas).

Our destination plan is to get south of hurricane zone by May, which is Costa Rica in these parts. Our commitment is to keep going until it isn't fun anymore or we hit Florida. My guess is we'll put Weebles on a ship somewhere near Panama rather than head north in the Caribbean, a difficult run.

Peter
Ensenada to Florida with Cabo.jpg

Weebles in Cabo.jpg
 
Pete, I would like to frame this for you. This is bottom line and the more remote you travel, the better you need to be and the more stuff you need to carry.

If you either don't enjoy working on boats or do not posses the ability, long distance cruising will be scary, frustrating, and your destinations severely limited. This goes way beyond single/twin debate. This is about keeping refrigeration cold, pumps pumping, watermakers making water, generator generating, inverters inverting, solar charging, etc. It's an endless list of to-dos, some more serious than others. I don't know why this topic is so rarely discussed on this forum (and other forums). But the amount of mechanical work required to keep a boat moving is astonishing.
 
Having spares and an inventory of consumables is important, but knowing what to do with them is quite another. And then there's the inevitable gap. Last week, I went hunting for 2/0 battery cable which took me on a tour of inland Cabo where few tourists venture and English is not spoken. The first place didn't have it but recommended another place that did. Was underpinned by a very patient Uber driver. Yesterday, in La Paz, it took me three tries to find the right sized crimp lugs. And these were the external efforts to resolve a charging issue that has been perplexing me since I left. My DC troubleshooting expertise increased immensely over the last 2 weeks thanks to a ln online Magister who generously helped me despite ample frustration on my part.

Necessity is the mother of invention. Had I been able to call a qualified marine electrician to resolve, I would have done so in a heartbeat. But there is no one to call. I'm it. Backstopped by some very helpful people for whom I'm forever indebted.

Listening to the morning VHF nets of people needing something and someone else offering to fill the void, my sense is cruisers have a 'pay-it-forward' mentality. Idea is to keep a positive balance in the karma account knowing that someday you'll need to draw upon it.

Peter
 
I have another thought on the subject of keeping a boat running. The hobby has moved from how to keep the important stuff running as Pete mentioned to how to deal with digital stuff. I’ve many boating friends who worry more about a Wi-Fi connection than engine and drive train health.

But, top notch nav gear is sure nice, especially when far away from help on a stormy night. ?
 
sounds like you are having a good journey overall

snowbird season has started and everyone in the warm areas are now sick with flu plus
 
Sorry to hear about the health issues. Watch rotation with a cold or flu amplifies the discomfort.
The boat is looking really great. When I think of all the hours I have invested in window and curtain repairs, I'm envious of just being open. How is the run averaging between upper and lower stations?
 
Glad to hear things are running smoothly after all that work and that you guys are enjoying getting back to using the boat.
 
should have taken a photo for the archives!

I run into a TFer once in a while which is always fun, but yesterday was a mini-Fort Pierce ala La Paz it seems.
The crews of Doc Peces, Weebles, Muirgen, and Domino were all on the end of the dock where Doc Peces and Domino are moored for a brief time yesterday morning. There are others in the region as well.
Small world....
 
I have another thought on the subject of keeping a boat running. The hobby has moved from how to keep the important stuff running as Pete mentioned to how to deal with digital stuff. I’ve many boating friends who worry more about a Wi-Fi connection than engine and drive train health.

But, top notch nav gear is sure nice, especially when far away from help on a stormy night. ?

Arguably, Weebles was not ready to leave Ensenada. I had trouble getting a new watermaker installed but got it cobbled together at last minute so decided to just go and deal with stuff along the way.

Navigation gear was (and remains) functional but far from fully configured. We had two "Crazy Ivan" episodes with the autopilot. Definitely disconcerting to have the AP go wonky in the middle of nowhere. Rebooted. But the ultimate fix was figuring out the Simrad nomenclature for High vs Low speed. Also have had the AP go dark which I traced to too small of a breaker running too many MFDs. I have a NEMO gateway which has not been installed and configured. Future enhancement. Point being my navigation system is fully functional. But is not optimized for it's full capabilities. Would be great to be able to export GPX route files to it but not high on the current list.

One morning (4am) the engine would not start. Not sure why one of the Blue Sea ACRs needed to be reset. Has not been an issue since. But I gotta tell you, having an engine go dark at a lonely anchorage at 4am does not settle the nerves.

Another morning the entire boat was dark. Turns out it was an under voltage shut down related to my lack of charging capacity (resolved as of yesterday) and the fact that not all the negative cables were routed through the shunt so I was not aware of the depleted state (also since resolved). But having a dark boat in the middle of nowhere is also a bit disconcerting. Thankfully, my generator and engine are well isolated for start, but still.......it's a pretty common type of issue that happens so you either learn to deal with it or you stay near yachting centers. Confession: it's much easier to talk about it in hindsight. These things rattle me and I constantly ask myself what happens if something comes along that I cannot fix? Not a pretty thought, but I'll deal with it as best I can.

I mostly enjoy tinkering, though not as much as I used to. But my mindset is improving.

Peter
 
How is the run averaging between upper and lower stations?

As the weather has gotten warmer, flybridge has been used more. I like night watches on the flybridge because it helps keep me awake. I must also confess that our lower helm seat isn't as comfortable. Our flybridge is very well protected.

I've been ambivalent on flybridges. But now that the weather is warm and we're at anchor, I'm really liking it. Breeze is constant and much more comfortable. I think for warmer climates, having a flybridge has moved up the list of must haves (not that we will have another boat)


Peter
 

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What a fantastic trip you are embarking on! So glad you are taking the time to write about it so we can follow along. I hope there is water left for you when you get to the canal! ;-)
 
I run into a TFer once in a while which is always fun, but yesterday was a mini-Fort Pierce ala La Paz it seems.
The crews of Doc Peces, Weebles, Muirgen, and Domino were all on the end of the dock where Doc Peces and Domino are moored for a brief time yesterday morning. There are others in the region as well.
Small world....

Yes, it is a really small world, and more and more TF'ers arrive daily it seems!

Just as an invitation to all the TF'ers..., entering Marina La Paz you cannot miss Bill and our boats. Please stop by and say hi.

I'm not on the boat 100% of the time but am there daily for sure.
 
Peter, you made it, congratulations!

Making it down the Baja is more than folks realize!
 
Peter,
Good to see you made La Paz. Was hoping you might explore north a bit, we missed on you at Ensenada last season.

Safe travels!
 
Congrats on successfully making that run. That’s a lot of miles and not a lot in the way of shelter or services.

It will get easier once you work through the extended shakedown phase. You know more than most about running a boat and about how to fix things. You did a huge amount of work and made many changes to your boat and some early challenges are to be expected. Get the bugs worked out and your pleasure to frustration ratio will improve dramatically.

You might also need a few miles to return to your full confidence level after a long layoff. I know it takes me some time to get back into the boating rhythm after being away.

You are more experienced and prepared than most succesful cruisers. Very wise of you to not commit to an itinerary beyond what is still fun. Looking forward to following your travels.
 
Thanks for your kind thoughts. I try to be candid, sometimes embarrasingly so.

You might also need a few miles to return to your full confidence level after a long layoff. I know it takes me some time to get back into the boating rhythm after being away.

My wife has asked me about this a couple times, especially after a recent spate of bonehead brain-farts (#1: Thought the outboard was dead and called a fellow cruiser with 911 to pick us up. Turned out I had taken the red coil ignition safety clip and forgotten to replace it; #2 - yesterday, I fired-up the generator to run the Battery Charger which didn't charge. After opening the panel with multi-meter in hand, I realized I didn't flip the breaker to connect the generator to panel).

I was essentially off the water for over 10-years, and have not been master of a cruising vessel in over 15-years. Mostly though, I was in my 40's back then and I'm now 62. "Confidence" is different now, though I struggle to explain how. More "Acceptance" if that makes sense.

Very wise of you to not commit to an itinerary beyond what is still fun. Looking forward to following your travels.

I was well-built for deliveries, especially along the Pacific Coast where legs are so long. Nordhavn/et-al were built for a guy like me - I was happy to tuck my chin and just keep moving. I used to ride motorcycles and have a half-dozen 1000-mile days (Atlanta to Chicago, for example). I didn't start out planning to go 1000 miles, but I just didn't have any reason to stop so I didn't. Voila, I arrived at my destination. I still have a twinge in the trapazoid muscle of my right shoulder.

But I make no pretense that that style of travel is normal. There is no way my wife would sign-up for that. I love her company and companionship. I'm always perpexed by the ocassional "my wife or my boat???" thread.

We'll be leaving La Paz in the next day or so for Mazatlan. We'll move from La Paz to an anchorage that is the closest jumping off point to Mazatlan. So far our longest leg has been around 230 nms so while Mazatlan is only 160 nms, it's an open water crossing without the psychological comfort of a fleet of Baja Ha Ha boats with their AIS icons speckling the MFD. Will take us a bit over 24-hours. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit nervous.

Peter

La Paz to Mazatlan.jpg
 
Great stuff, thanks for taking us along for the ride! It seems you have some large open water legs in the first chart you posted, unless I am reading this incorrectly. Do you have bail out options pre programmed in prior to departure or if something comes up, wherever you are you figure out contingencies then? Any concerns about safety in MX? Any concerns about getting health care in your voyage? Did you research this, or just figuring along the coast there is usually docs you can see if something comes up? Asking as I am unfamiliar with where you are going.

Also, are you the same weebles on CF?
 
Peter, it seems to me like you have a timeline which is rushed. You started the trip with the flu. Do you have to be somewhere sooner than later. You have already said "until it stops being fun".
 
Great stuff, thanks for taking us along for the ride! It seems you have some large open water legs in the first chart you posted, unless I am reading this incorrectly. Do you have bail out options pre programmed in prior to departure or if something comes up, wherever you are you figure out contingencies then? Any concerns about safety in MX? Any concerns about getting health care in your voyage? Did you research this, or just figuring along the coast there is usually docs you can see if something comes up? Asking as I am unfamiliar with where you are going.

Also, are you the same weebles on CF?

There are some anchorages along the way that are feasible. For the Baja Ha Ha Leg 2 from Turtle Bay to Santa Maria, a 225 nm run. It was windy that day so we tucked into an anchorage along the way and broke it into a 65 nm run and a 180 nm overnight run. But from Santa Maria/Mag Bay to Cabo (180nms), there are no feasible anchorages so you are committed or you turn back. These types of distances are common along this coast.

The good news is that weather forecasting is generally pretty good, especially within the 48-hour horizon. I have been using a combination of passageweather.com (similar to synoptic charts), Windy, and PredictWind. Forecasts have been roughly 80% accurate - a couple afternoons of non-predicted chop but nothing dangerous, just more uncomfortable than anticipated.

We have a condo in Playa del Carmen south of Cancun that we rent VRBO. "Is Mexico safe" is a very common question. I cannot/will-not answer for anyone else, all I can tell you is we feel safe in the places we travel in Mexico. But we don't have dangerous habits. We go to bed early, do go 'clubbing,' and don't do drugs.

That said, Mazatlan is the crown jewel of the Mexican state of Sinaloa, famed for El Chapo of Culiacan, a city I had never heard of until it became HQ for the Sinaloa Cartel. There are two schools of thought. I was raised in an Italian Catholic family in New Jersey (James Gandolfini/Tony Soprano sort has a passing resemblance to my dad). Little Italy in NYC was known as being very safe because the mob didn't like crime-ridden neighborhoods either.

As a final note on 'safety,' in my opinion, Mexico gets a really bad rap in the US. There are a lot of politics behind it. In my opinion, we Americans would do well to learn a bit more about our southern neighbors. Yes, there are some severe crime and corruption issues, but overall, the Mexican culture is respectful, friendly, kind, and family friendly. And they are generous. A few weeks ago I was in an restaurant in Ensenada on the main walking street - one of those places that used to be up-scale but had faded over the years. We were seated in the front window next to table of Mexicans who did not look wealthy at all - probably a special event dinner for them. A begger on the streeet came up to the window and motioned that he was hungry. He was filthy. We waved him away so he went to the next table with the Mexican family. The father took half of his meal and folded it into a napkin and brought it outside to the begger. I felt tiny that I had not offered similar generosity. This type of largess in Mexico is not uncommon. What a better world it would be if we all viewed our role as giving as much as possible?

Health care. We are both pretty healthy so not an issue so far. But there are options out there for western style medical doctors and dentists, just gotta find them. Costs tend to be more akin to hiring a skilled tradesman vs drawing-down your 401K. Given the number of Gringos in La Paz for example, I'd imagine there is very good medical care available. I do take two common medications that are easily available over the counter here at a cost that is about the same as I pay for it in the US after insurance. It's so easy to just get it here that I just stock-up and don't bother with a prescription in the US.

There are several reasons gringos come to Mexico. In places like La Paz, I'd say many come because it's less expensive than the US (though that gap is narrowing). They tend to want American style ammenities at a bargain price. For us, we simply like the culture, the food, and the sense of adventure. The US is incredibly wealthy and being here is a good reminder of how fortunate we have been.

Yes, same Weebles as on CF, though I don't post there much anymore. TF is a much more friendly platform to my tastes.

Peter
 
Peter, it seems to me like you have a timeline which is rushed. You started the trip with the flu. Do you have to be somewhere sooner than later. You have already said "until it stops being fun".

Mostly, we want out of the gringo zone and into Mexico. La Paz is a great city and I fully understand why cruisers get 'stuck' here for years. Our sights have been set on Mazatlan for a while. In the last 20-years or so, train and highway access has expanded so Mazatlan has become a domestic tourist haven. We hear very good things about it so want to check it out for ourselves. We may also leave Weebles there for a few weeks and head back to Florida, but not sure yet.

Peter
 
Mostly, we want out of the gringo zone and into Mexico. La Paz is a great city and I fully understand why cruisers get 'stuck' here for years. Our sights have been set on Mazatlan for a while. In the last 20-years or so, train and highway access has expanded so Mazatlan has become a domestic tourist haven. We hear very good things about it so want to check it out for ourselves. We may also leave Weebles there for a few weeks and head back to Florida, but not sure yet.

Peter

One advantage of Mazatalan is you can get a slip.

Everybody talks about how fun it is at anchorage, but at least for me marina life is just more pleasant.
 
One advantage of Mazatalan is you can get a slip.

Everybody talks about how fun it is at anchorage, but at least for me marina life is just more pleasant.

The anchorage at La Paz is a bit rolly. It's okay for short term, but not sure how folks do it long term. The dinghy dock Marina de La Paz is incredibly cruiser friendly, but as you note, getting a slip is helpful. And Mazatlan has a large international airport.

Peter
 
Peter,

Big congrats on your successful southbound passage. And thanks again for your help one year ago when SoLunaMare was in Ensenada dealing with halyard issues (now resolved!). Hope your hop over to the mainland goes smoothly in the little ship you are rightfully proud of.

Roger Neiley
 
Midnight and underway.

It's 10:45 pm and I just relieved my wife at the con for my 11pm-2am watch. I slept hard for a couple hours. This is our 5th of 6th overnight since leaving Ensenada over 1000 nms and 4-1/2 weeks ago. The anchorage we left 23 hours ago was very rolly so neither of us got much sleep. Staying awake is especially hard tonight.

With exception of a small tramp steamer early this morning, there has been zero traffic all day. No VHF traffic, no AIS, no pangas, nothing. We are in 6000 feet of water and, until we get closer to Mazatlan in a few more hours, on no traffic lane.

For the first 15-hours, we were slow. At times, well over a half knot too slow. I've had this happen before when I was delivering where I become convinced the boat picked up something. What else could explain such a long period of slowness? 15-hours of adverse current??? How is that possible??? Everytime it's the same. After hours of head scratching, I stop the boat to check for debris. And every time there is nothing - issue is current, some sort of ocean river (Windy's 'Current' mapping didn't even come close to identifying this one). We regained our speed plus the lost half kt bump around 3pm this afternoon.

This time, the slow speed had consequences. The marina in Mazatlan advised entering on high tide so we planned accordingly. Because of the long distance, losing a half knot meant missing the high tide by 4 hours. However we are now back on schedule. It all works out I guess, though I'm sure you semi-displacement speedsters are noting yet another reason not to own a displacement boat such as a Willard. To which I'll note there are no fuel docks here so you'd have to choose your speed wisely.

I'm not sure how to characterize this type of travel. While there are long periods of nothing to do except write long TF posts, the underlying tone is neither relaxing nor is it stress free. At one point this afternoon, we were almost 100nms away from land. It's certainly not athletic, but it is adventurous.

Okay, back to work. It's 77 degrees outside so I'm on the flybridge for my watch. Weather is calm and smooth. For those who've read this far, thanks for hanging with me while I kill some time staying awake.

Peter

EDIT - rotated pictures seem to be a feature of TFs browser app. At least for my android phone. Any suggestions?
 

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[SNIP]

For those who've read this far, thanks for hanging with me while I kill some time staying awake.

Please keep posting like this. I know I am half way around the world and will probably never cruise this area, but I like reading your posts and imaging this will be me at some point in the future. I appreciate your candidness in the posts as it makes one think about the mental side of cruising.

i.e. a lot of times it is less about what boat you own, how long it is, whether it is round bilge or hard chine, one engine or two, but rather the mindset of being in the open ocean with nobody but yourself to rely on.
 
I sympathize. I can tell the difference between 50hz and 60hz by the hum. I can feel when the engines are out of sync better that the gauge. But actual distance / speed over water is well, fluid. With all the measurement and quantification we use somehow the planet still has variables that don't get factored. Where is the exact edge of the gulf stream today? How fast is it? Where is that temperature break we were on yesterday?
A boring night watch is a good watch. Gauges are all in range, nothing of issue on the screens. Except my dinosaur brain starts focusing on minor things until I'm sure that there is an issue needing attention. My mantra then is "Just keep driving the bus".
The small windows of quiet are fleeting. It is what you bought with the many months of difficulty it took to get there.
 
fAc78RbgPtta5YV17
I appreciate you sharing your adventures and candid thoughts Peter.
Wish I had come across the Gulfo de California to see you all at the Thanksgiving/La Paz
spontaneous TF get together. Just across the SOC in San Carlos and climbed Tetakawi fo the first time after living here 10 year. We could actually see the Baja from there.
fAc78RbgPtta5YV17

Look us up if you ever get back this way.

DJ
 
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Thanks for your kind thoughts. I try to be candid, sometimes embarrasingly so.



My wife has asked me about this a couple times, especially after a recent spate of bonehead brain-farts (#1: Thought the outboard was dead and called a fellow cruiser with 911 to pick us up. Turned out I had taken the red coil ignition safety clip and forgotten to replace it; #2 - yesterday, I fired-up the generator to run the Battery Charger which didn't charge. After opening the panel with multi-meter in hand, I realized I didn't flip the breaker to connect the generator to panel).

I was essentially off the water for over 10-years, and have not been master of a cruising vessel in over 15-years. Mostly though, I was in my 40's back then and I'm now 62. "Confidence" is different now, though I struggle to explain how. More "Acceptance" if that makes sense.



I was well-built for deliveries, especially along the Pacific Coast where legs are so long. Nordhavn/et-al were built for a guy like me - I was happy to tuck my chin and just keep moving. I used to ride motorcycles and have a half-dozen 1000-mile days (Atlanta to Chicago, for example). I didn't start out planning to go 1000 miles, but I just didn't have any reason to stop so I didn't. Voila, I arrived at my destination. I still have a twinge in the trapazoid muscle of my right shoulder.

But I make no pretense that that style of travel is normal. There is no way my wife would sign-up for that. I love her company and companionship. I'm always perpexed by the ocassional "my wife or my boat???" thread.

We'll be leaving La Paz in the next day or so for Mazatlan. We'll move from La Paz to an anchorage that is the closest jumping off point to Mazatlan. So far our longest leg has been around 230 nms so while Mazatlan is only 160 nms, it's an open water crossing without the psychological comfort of a fleet of Baja Ha Ha boats with their AIS icons speckling the MFD. Will take us a bit over 24-hours. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit nervous.

Peter

View attachment 143676

Always enjoy reading your posts & musings. This one hit home. Sold our sailboat several years ago and finally landed a trawler and we made an inaugural 5 day run (also started w/ a flu like bug) whereby I made similar and several boneheaded mistakes. It's as if I'd never been on a boat before. I remain nervous and question the purchase decision almost hourly. On the bright side, the anxiety and illness resulted in a much needed 10lb weight loss. Keep posting and here's wishing both our anxieties ease as tropical breezes blow across our flybridge.
 

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