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Old 08-02-2017, 06:37 PM   #21
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metal. And looks to be leaking not far from the rudder end. Can see the water coming in.


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Old 08-02-2017, 06:39 PM   #22
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Tube must have rotted out. I will let everyone fallow this. I'll have to take the tube out. Looks to be screwed to the ends.
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:39 PM   #23
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Pull the rudder to get the tube out.
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:23 AM   #24
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Pull the rudder to get the tube out.


Well haven't done it yet. Got a pipe camera to check it out. Can't believe that others trawlers don't have water in there keel. Crazy thing and what a pain.
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Old 09-03-2017, 11:52 AM   #25
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Almost feel like filling it up with epoxy?
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:03 PM   #26
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If that tube rotted out and the bolts fell off, make sure you are properly bonded, anodes in good shape etc. Any sign of 'pink' in your wheel or rudder? The repair looks straightforward as far as I can see from the photos - pull the tube and fill the bolt holes with something, build a replacement tube and put a larger plate on the inside; redrill the holes. Make sure your fab shop adds a bonding lug. Or use a fibreglass tube and glass it to the hull. The pipe doesn't support the shaft so I would do fibreglass.
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:19 PM   #27
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Or use a fibreglass tube and glass it to the hull. The pipe doesn't support the shaft so I would do fibreglass.

I second this. Any new FRP (fiberglass) boat would use an FRP shaft tube. They likely used metal back then because FRP tube wasn't so readily available, nor the glues as trustworthy.

Just make sure to get a tube with inner & outer dimensions that will accept a new cutless bearing on the aft end and shaft seal (packing gland) hose on the inner end. Machining is not a big deal if the dimensions aren't available, but obviously easier all around if things fit right out of the box.

Best of luck, this sounds like a pain but it's certainly do-able.
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Old 09-03-2017, 02:30 PM   #28
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Metal or bronze will outlast you too, the last one lasted 30(?) years. My preference is fibreglass.
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:02 PM   #29
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Metal or bronze will outlast you too, the last one lasted 30(?) years. My preference is fibreglass.


What I was thinking. Not pull it out of there and filling the keel up with epoxy. Then water can't get in there again. I was even thinking instead of breaking the keel bolts off a drilling them and installing new ones. Cutting the floor open that way you could epoxy the top and cut the tube and sleeve it so I didn't have to break the keel bolts to get the shaft log out. Is it just filled up down there with rocks and hollow and are the rocks going to fill in when I pull out the shaft log?
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:07 PM   #30
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What I was thinking. Not pull it out of there and filling the keel up with epoxy. Then water can't get in there again. I was even thinking instead of breaking the keel bolts off a drilling them and installing new ones. Cutting the floor open that way you could epoxy the top and cut the tube and sleeve it so I didn't have to break the keel bolts to get the shaft log out. Is it just filled up down there with rocks and hollow and are the rocks going to fill in when I pull out the shaft log?


I'm glassing up the decks from the leaking teak. Been raining every day and the teak decks were leaking and adding water in the bilge. That's not happening now and it's drying up. I hope.
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:14 PM   #31
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I used a pipe camera and found the hole. 28 inches in on the bottom of the shaft log.
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:56 PM   #32
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Filling the keel full would take a lot of filler! A lot of money. And would produce a lot of heat as it exotherms/cures.

Replace the tube (with fiberglass: cheaper and easy) and forget about it. Add an access hatch (Beckson or similar) to the top of the keel so that you can check for water.

Bear in mind that epoxying the new tube in requires that the surfaces receiving the epoxy have to be clean and dry. A Dremel with a burr might do nicely for the inside surface of the bore.

You'll need enough area for the bond which is usually done with a fillet (like a weld). If your shaft log fitting won't accommodate one perhaps adding an annulus (shim) of, say, 1/2" thick fiberglass sheet would do for you. Glue it in as well, to a clean surface; bore the shaft tube hole oversize so that the epoxy has all the more surface to bond to.

Where are the nuts for the bolts holding the shaft tube? Gotta' install and glass in the bolts before the tube is installed?
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Old 09-03-2017, 04:12 PM   #33
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Filling the keel full would take a lot of filler! A lot of money. And would produce a lot of heat as it exotherms/cures.

Replace the tube (with fiberglass: cheaper and easy) and forget about it. Add an access hatch (Beckson or similar) to the top of the keel so that you can check for water.

Bear in mind that epoxying the new tube in requires that the surfaces receiving the epoxy have to be clean and dry. A Dremel with a burr might do nicely for the inside surface of the bore.

You'll need enough area for the bond which is usually done with a fillet (like a weld). If your shaft log fitting won't accommodate one perhaps adding an annulus (shim) of, say, 1/2" thick fiberglass sheet would do for you. Glue it in as well, to a clean surface; bore the shaft tube hole oversize so that the epoxy has all the more surface to bond to.

Where are the nuts for the bolts holding the shaft tube? Gotta' install and glass in the bolts before the tube is installed?


So break the keel bolts off to try to get it to unscrew from the front housing? Is it going to fill in with rocks when I pull it out?
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Old 09-03-2017, 04:15 PM   #34
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Wish someone has done this? Pretty sure the keel is full of rocks.
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:42 PM   #35
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So have you done this and know what's in the keel?
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:23 PM   #36
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I have done this. The shaft tube is metal it is threaded into the fitting where the shaft comes out, it does fit through the hole in the rudder.

The most common failure point is the aft coupling, because of either poor shaft alignment or bolt failure. The only proper way to fit it back together is to drill two holes in the keel so you can get behind it.

The keel is filed with river gravel and concrete for ballast. What's under the engine is thin, layer. Expoxying this will do you no good. If you live where it freezes you must drain the water out of the keel, drill a few holes...

If you want to talk to me about this project send me a pm.
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:26 PM   #37
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I have done this. The shaft tube is metal it is threaded into the fitting where the shaft comes out, it does fit through the hole in the rudder.

The most common failure point is the aft coupling, because of either poor shaft alignment or bolt failure. The only proper way to fit it back together is to drill two holes in the keel so you can get behind it.

The keel is filed with river gravel and concrete for ballast. What's under the engine is thin, layer. Expoxying this will do you no good. If you live where it freezes you must drain the water out of the keel, drill a few holes...

If you want to talk to me about this project send me a pm.


There's no way the tube fits though the hole in the rudder. I measured it. 2 1/8 inside diameter.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:47 AM   #38
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Mine did, but there are a lot of variations on these boats. My guy cut the aft coupling bolts and unscrewed that, then unscrewed the tube from the stuffing box assembly, fabricating a pipe cap/ring on the aft end, and then used a come along to slowly work the tube out.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:51 AM   #39
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Mine did, but there are a lot of variations on these boats. My guy cut the aft coupling bolts and unscrewed that, then unscrewed the tube from the stuffing box assembly, fabricating a pipe cap/ring on the aft end, and then used a come along to slowly work the tube out.


I'm thinking I might just patch the hole and then paint the pipe with epoxy paint. Bond it well and put it back in the water.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:08 PM   #40
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The shaft log is cheap compared to the cost of getting it all put back together without leaks and properly aligned...
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