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Old 04-21-2022, 05:29 AM   #41
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An observation.
Mainship 390 out of the water in a cradle (next to my boat) today.
Lots of underwater angles and curves. Reverse hard chine. Bustle with a pronounced curve downwards and inbuilt trim tabs in the underside. Bulbous belly. Small thruster tunnel.
Notable down angle on the prop shaft. Unprotected prop and rudder gear.
My overall impression was a design relying on tricks to achieve performance. Call me old fashion, but I like clean smooth underwater lines.
My 15m 23 ton motorsailer 220hp designed by a notable local (Australian) yacht designer about 20 years ago, no tricky bits, clean and neat 8.5 knots at 8 litres per hour, minimal wake.
I'm probably not comparing "apples with apples" however, a boat has to look right imho....
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Old 04-21-2022, 08:04 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by jclays View Post
what do you think of drilling the hole oversized. With a bent nail in a drill to hog out the core around the hole. Fill with thickened epoxy and install a threaded screw-in type insert.
when fully cured bolt in my cleats. just thinking of ways to blind mount the cleats.
Cut in a Hatch then you will have proper access
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Old 04-21-2022, 01:14 PM   #43
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I like to butter the backing plate with thickened epoxy. That way the entire plate is in intimate contact with the deck. If there are any humps on the bottom of the deck the backing plate will bridge the humps and they will become stress points.
Canít use backing plate. No access.
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Old 04-22-2022, 12:29 PM   #44
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Further info re M390. Observations of the boat being serviced next to mine in our local shipyard.
The boat yard staff changing the seacocks and skin fittings are very critical about the access to the fittings. Changing some has required cutting into furniture to access them. A potential purchaser may do well to look specifically at items like these that do need to be changed and see just how difficult this job is. Is it indicative of access to other tasks? for example maintaining the genset?
The bustle/pod to hull join is "very average". Pod has been bonded to the transom with something like a urethane sealant, and then a very thin layer of grp over the join. The fibreglass has cracked allowing water into the space between the pod and the transom.
Note my boat is not perfect, rot in the ply under the fibreglass on the roof, starting around fastenings.....boats!!!!
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Old 04-22-2022, 12:33 PM   #45
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Hatches look terrible. I’ll use the action I described in post 378.
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Old 04-23-2022, 02:30 PM   #46
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Hatches look terrible. I’ll use the action I described in post 378.
I guess to each his own. I personally like the look and love the extra storage and less weight with all the water that you are carrying around, enjoy
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Old 04-28-2022, 04:48 AM   #47
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I'm not sure if the OP has stayed interested in a Mainship 390? To finish the story about "the boat next door"
The boat is a 2004 model 390.
The boat in the bay next to mine has several very significant and problematic issues.
The glass work around the rudder bearing area externally is full of voids.
The bustle join to the hull is by urethane sealant with a thin layer of grp over the join, (but only on the bottom sections). The join has been leaking for a long time. The sides are sealed by urethane only. (No glass over the join)
The fairing of the hull to bustle join is inadequate, particularly along the sides, with deep depressions evident at the join.
The bottom of the bustle has now been removed where it is adjacent to the rudder bearing. The balsa core is soft/wet, the glass is very thin and full of voids.
The engine has dropped/sagged on the mounts, wearing out the cutless bearing in the P bracket (a maintenance issue, probably not a construction issue)
OP: I suggest you check very very carefully: Access to skin fittings and valves. Access to all service items eg; generator maintenance, engine service items. Poke prod and tap the glass around the rudder bearing and the join bustle to hull. Look along the hull sides and bottom make sure you are happy with the hull form. Check the engine alignment, make sure where the shaft emerges from the aft face of the keel, that the shaft is in the centre of the bronze casting that forms part of the shaft/seal structure (for the PPS seal).
Caveat Emptor!
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Old 04-28-2022, 10:14 AM   #48
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Get a phenolic hammer and tap out all the glass. It is easy to do and learn what sounds good and bad. A sharp tone is good a dull thud is bad. It doesn’t damage the gelcoat either since it is plastic and weighs a couple of ounces. It may save you the cost of a survey if the boat is really bad. I always carry mine when looking at boats.
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