skipper724
Veteran Member
My 2000 390 has a teak and holley sole. Has anyone refinished it? I know the veneer is thin. How about putting a satin poly urethane down?
Guys?
Guys?
Refinish Teak and Holley Floor in 390
- Thread starter skipper724
- Start date
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Datenight
Guru
Hi Skipper,
There are several threads on that subject. The search function should take you to them. Refinishing Salon Hardwood Floors is one.
I have done quite a few of these soles. If you would like to PM me me I would be happy to steer you in the right direction.
Rob
There are several threads on that subject. The search function should take you to them. Refinishing Salon Hardwood Floors is one.
I have done quite a few of these soles. If you would like to PM me me I would be happy to steer you in the right direction.
Rob
Lou_tribal
Guru
Just a little note, it is teak and holly, two wood species.
Here is holly:
L
Here is holly:
L
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Please feel free to keep the discussion in the forum where anyone and everyone can benefit and contribute.
Comodave
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No, we aren’t.
Comodave
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It is on my list of things to do, but has not bubbled up to the top yet.
Datenight
Guru
Re finish
Ok, I'll jump in. The best way I have found to strip and re finish a veneered teak and holly sole is to coat it with paint stripper 2-4 square feet at a time. Give the stripper a few minutes to work (get your head out of the gutter Wifey B.) and scrape it off with a sharp scraper. I use a 1" Red Devil. The smaller blade is easier to sharpen and control. Should mention I always use a box fan to keep the area ventilated.
You can also use a heat gun to remove the finish but I prefer the above method as there is no possibility of scorching the surface. You do however HAVE to keep the scraper sharp. That is the hardest part for someone new to this.
Will try to make a video of sharpening the scraper but it will be a least Tuesday before I can.
If the finish is worn off and the wood darkened in high traffic areas you may need to treat it with oxalic acid. Read the directions, wear gloves, protect your eyes and keep the fan going.
After the wood is thoroughly dry I sand with 150# paper on a 5" orbital sander. Don't push the sander. It's weight alone is enough. Change paper every five minutes unless it clogs sooner. Paper is cheap. You will be surprised how fast it goes with sharp paper. This assumes you have removed the old finish by scraping. Hand sand the corners with a piece of used paper.
No need to go finer than 150# before coating. My first coat is usually Zinsser sealer. Be sure you by the type that can be used under polyurethane. After that, 5-7 coats of the urethane of your choice. I coat until the grain is completely filled.
If you want to use a water born finish such as Street Shoe or Bona you have to use their sealer. The water born finishes in my experience are particular about start and stop lines. Keep a wet edge and be sure it does not puddle.
In almost all cases a regular urethane suitable for floors is fine. No need for a marine finish.
Rob
Ok, I'll jump in. The best way I have found to strip and re finish a veneered teak and holly sole is to coat it with paint stripper 2-4 square feet at a time. Give the stripper a few minutes to work (get your head out of the gutter Wifey B.) and scrape it off with a sharp scraper. I use a 1" Red Devil. The smaller blade is easier to sharpen and control. Should mention I always use a box fan to keep the area ventilated.
You can also use a heat gun to remove the finish but I prefer the above method as there is no possibility of scorching the surface. You do however HAVE to keep the scraper sharp. That is the hardest part for someone new to this.
Will try to make a video of sharpening the scraper but it will be a least Tuesday before I can.
If the finish is worn off and the wood darkened in high traffic areas you may need to treat it with oxalic acid. Read the directions, wear gloves, protect your eyes and keep the fan going.
After the wood is thoroughly dry I sand with 150# paper on a 5" orbital sander. Don't push the sander. It's weight alone is enough. Change paper every five minutes unless it clogs sooner. Paper is cheap. You will be surprised how fast it goes with sharp paper. This assumes you have removed the old finish by scraping. Hand sand the corners with a piece of used paper.
No need to go finer than 150# before coating. My first coat is usually Zinsser sealer. Be sure you by the type that can be used under polyurethane. After that, 5-7 coats of the urethane of your choice. I coat until the grain is completely filled.
If you want to use a water born finish such as Street Shoe or Bona you have to use their sealer. The water born finishes in my experience are particular about start and stop lines. Keep a wet edge and be sure it does not puddle.
In almost all cases a regular urethane suitable for floors is fine. No need for a marine finish.
Rob
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Xsbank
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Surely the floor of a Mainship is made with plywood, with a veneer surface? I’d be very skeptical if it could withstand that refinishing treatment. Solid hardwood, you are golden but ply...?
Just curious. Can someone post a photo?
Just curious. Can someone post a photo?
