Stainless rails too low

[Foster Nordic]

Hi all

I have a Nordic Tug 37 (2003) that was built and set up with the dinghy on weaver davits off the swimstep rather than atop the aft cabin with a crane.

I like this setup as I use the upper deck for a seating area and also as a piloting place - (wireless remote control to the autopilot and navionics up there.)

HOWEVER - the stainless steel railings that were installed up there are much lower than "normal" height and they don't feel safe for the way I like to use that upper deck. I don't have measurements with me but they come midway between knee and waist height.

My 2008 NT32 had much higher railings (~36 inches) up there that DID feel safe.

Any suggestions on how to address this? Can I have another row of stainless added somehow? Other options? Crowdsourcing for wisdom.

Thanks

Don

 

[Foster Nordic]

Here's a photo if that helps....

 

[BruceK]

Can`t help with the solution but the problem you identified does need fixing. At that height, with most of the body above the rail height, the rail functions as a trip mechanism.

 

[Comodave]

The solution is going to be expensive. You would need to add another round of railing at the proper height. Find a good S/S shop in your area and see what it would cost. But be prepared it will not be cheap…

 

[Arc]

With a boat of that quality I would have a new complete rail made. The only other solution is to remove it , cut off the legs and have taller ones welded in place.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I don't know if stainless pipe is fabricated such that the exterior dimension of one size (say 1 inch) is also the interior dimension of a larger pipe (say 1.25 inch pipe). If so, it might be possible to cut each stanchion post, add a sleeve of the right length to raise the upper railing, and weld in place. Sounds simple, but probably only simple compared to having the whole system removed and refabricated.

 

[Comodave]

Find a good fabricator and they can make the best suggestions as to what is possible and what is affordable.

 

[Bmarler]

I don't know if stainless pipe is fabricated such that the exterior dimension of one size (say 1 inch) is also the interior dimension of a larger pipe (say 1.25 inch pipe). If so, it might be possible to cut each stanchion post, add a sleeve of the right length to raise the upper railing, and weld in place. Sounds simple, but probably only simple compared to having the whole system removed and refabricated.

1-1/8 fits over 1 inch. Fittings for that are scarce, and it’s not really a practical approach. I’ll echo that stainless work is expensive. Very expensive. I think there an outfit called rail makers in the Seattle area. Also you can ask at nordlands yard in tacoma. My son does the stainless work there. Again, not cheap, but high quality. Fwiw, I get nothing from nordlunds for referrals.

 

[Iggy]

I have a Pacific Trawler, you could say the sister ship to Nordic. You may be able to do what they did on my boat? OR come up with something from this?

On the upper deck, to lower the inflatable they cut the three stanchions down on both side of the boat to about 4". Than used another stanchion with in insert at the bottom to fit into the 4" one. Than used life lines between them.

In your case, I would stay away from the life lines. But its one way to rase the stanchions and than bolt on the stainless.

 

[Pascall]

Perhaps an idea to place plastic blocks between the deck and the stainless steel?

 

[Foster Nordic]

Thanks all for suggestions/advice.

I did find a railmaker in the Seattle area with very good Google reviews - called NW Railmakers so I'll have them over to see what they suggest.

Also - Iggy I'd love to see a photograph of what they did on your boat if you can do that.

 

[DDW]

There is no reason to make a new one - just extend the legs on the one you have. You will not be able to see the modification if done well. Shouldn't even take that many hours.

 

[AlanT]

With a boat of that quality I would have a new complete rail made. The only other solution is to remove it , cut off the legs and have taller ones welded in place.

I concur. Depending on your local skillsets and labor costs it may well be cheapest to simply cut off the legs and have longer ones welded on.
~A

 

[jungpeter]

Thanks all for suggestions/advice.

I did find a railmaker in the Seattle area with very good Google reviews - called NW Railmakers so I'll have them over to see what they suggest.

Also - Iggy I'd love to see a photograph of what they did on your boat if you can do that.

Hi Foster Nordic. NW Railmakers is your friend. While it's possible to butch up ANY fix on a boat, doing a proper job on your railings will not be either cheap, or quick. And while the Pacific Trawler boat deck railing design is an admirable solution to facilitate use of your boat deck for dinghy storage, it's sorta overcome by events in your case, as you no longer use the boat deck for the dinghy. And, if you chose to go the Pacific Trawler route, there's WAY more to it than simply hacking off your rails, and slipping in some longer tubing.

Again, Railmakers is your friend. They've been doing this stuff for years, and their solution(s) will be first class.

Regards,

Pete

 

[Stout]

Tanner MFG

Tanner Mfg is another marine SS fabricator in WA. I believe they are the OEM for both Nordic Tug & American Tug. We have had them fab some items and have been very satisfied with their products.

https://www.tannermfg.com/contact

Tanner Manufacturing & Design, Inc.
P.O. Box 31848 Bellingham, WA 98228

 

[Comodave]

Tanner Mfg is another marine SS fabricator in WA. I believe they are the OEM for both Nordic Tug & American Tug. We have had them fab some items and have been very satisfied with their products.

https://www.tannermfg.com/contact

Tanner Manufacturing & Design, Inc.
P.O. Box 31848 Bellingham, WA 98228

I just ordered a 2” staple from Tanner. It is supposed to take about 3 weeks for it to ship. Hopefully they do quality work, time will tell.

 

[fgarriso]

In my opinion ( which isn't worth all that much ). All safety rails should be at least waist high. Any lower it is easy to go over the rail and into the water.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, the bow rails on our Formula were designed to look nice but they are not functional. My wife said no to buying the boat because she didn’t feel safe on the bow. So I put bow and stern thrusters on the boat so she doesn’t need to go on the bow.

 

[rslifkin]

In my opinion ( which isn't worth all that much ). All safety rails should be at least waist high. Any lower it is easy to go over the rail and into the water.

Agreed. My boat has 30 inch rails which is better than many, but I'd still like another 6-8 inches.

 

[Insequent]

My boat had rails about 27" high. I had the guys at Port Townsend Shipwright's CoOp cut the tube bout 2" below the rail and weld in a section of tube the same diameter. New height is 36" to juts below the teak. The height was determined by where there was a logical place to butt the teak against the flybridge coaming. They asked if I wanted the welds ground & polished but I said no. The visible welds did not bother me plus had that been done it would have been a bit weaker. Obviously that saved a fair bit of time & money as well.

Some of you with newer, flash boats probably would not accept the aesthetic but I'm fine with it. I'm overdue on clean & polish, but you can see what I'm describing in the pic. You don't have to spend a lot to get a functional solution.

The OP could cut at near the base, or even put new flanges on quite easily since the posts are vertical. Were the tube cut made just below the lower horizontal tube it would not be very noticeable at all.

 

[Foster Nordic]

Super helpful thank you. This is exactly the kind of answer I'm imagining and this seems to show it's doable. thanks all for the specific suggestions on railmakers who can do this kind of work in the NW area!

 

[Sharpseadog]

Tanner Mfg is another marine SS fabricator in WA. I believe they are the OEM for both Nordic Tug & American Tug. We have had them fab some items and have been very satisfied with their products.

https://www.tannermfg.com/contact

Tanner Manufacturing & Design, Inc.
P.O. Box 31848 Bellingham, WA 98228

I agree, Tanner is a top quality SS Fabricator and owner Mark Tanner is great to work with. Highly recommend him.

 

[MaDehn]

You can buy splicers which are sleeves that fit over the existing rails-- remove them at the bottom mount attach the splicers then graft on a piece of any length you desire to raise your rails-- you will have a row of sleeves 6 inches or so off the deck level but they will not be overly noticeable. don't use the grub screws to hold the splicers in place, instead drill thru the splicer and the tubing and put in a SS pop rivet for a tight secure flush connection- the rivets are in sheer and with two on each side of the joint they will be plenty strong enough to secure the rail-