Reverso Connection Question

[JohnO]

I have a stupid question ... do you keep your reverso lines connected to the engine and generator all the time keeping the valves on the Reverso closed? I did some quick research but couldn't find an answer.

My generator has a valve to close the drain, so I keep that one hooked up, but my Ford Lehman SP135 only has an oil pan adapter with no way to close the drain. It was capped before I connected the reverso. Don't know if I connect only to pump out oil or keep it connected all the time and just close the valves on the Reverso. Assuming full time connection, but don't want to do anything stupid here ... make enough mistakes as it is

Thanks!

 

[RCook]

My Reverso manifold stays connected to the main, transmission, and generator. The Reverso's valves control. Has worked flawlessly for the 8 years and 5,400 nm I have owned the boat.

 

[JohnO]

My Reverso manifold stays connected to the main, transmission, and generator. The Reverso's valves control. Has worked flawlessly for the 8 years and 5,400 nm I have owned the boat.

Thanks so much!

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. JO. Ahem....There are NO stupid questions!!! Only un-asked ones. From MY and I'm sure the majority of TF members perspectives, ask away.


Our outlet hoses from the Lehmans were connected full time but capped. Uncapping and connecting to the pump was a PIA and a bit of a mess. I wish I had thought of valves.

 

[Mac G]

Our system has valves just under the oil pans that connect to the hoses which stay permanently attached.
The valves are a pain to access - have to crawl way down and reach way under.
When we bought the boat (used) this whole system was new to me.
When first invetigating found all the valves to be left open.
The prior owner was apparantely relying on the integrity of the hoses.
Now that I am in charge I close them when not in use.

If you don't have shut off valve on engine perhaps you could add one the next time you drain all oil out anyway for a routine oil change.
Get another smaller temp pan to catch the drips while the hose is absent.
Take the hose out and make note of the thread size and get fittings and a valve to go in between the two.

The system is great.
Makes changing oil a breeze compared to the old-fashioned suck-out-of-the- dipstick method used to perform on sailboat.

All our hoses stay permanently attached to the reverso pump contraption and then the master exit/drain hose has a removable cap and that just rests proped up against something in the bilge.
Always make sure that is on tight to prevent any drips from coming out.

 

[JohnO]

Greetings,
Mr. JO. Ahem....There are NO stupid questions!!! Only un-asked ones. From MY and I'm sure the majority of TF members perspectives, ask away.


Our outlet hoses from the Lehmans were connected full time but capped. Uncapping and connecting to the pump was a PIA and a bit of a mess. I wish I had thought of valves.

Thanks RT - have always appreciated the community and great advice on TF!

 

[JohnO]

Our system has valves just under the oil pans that connect to the hoses which stay permanently attached.
The valves are a pain to access - have to crawl way down and reach way under.
When we bought the boat (used) this whole system was new to me.
When first invetigating found all the valves to be left open.
The prior owner was apparantely relying on the integrity of the hoses.
Now that I am in charge I close them when not in use.

If you don't have shut off valve on engine perhaps you could add one the next time you drain all oil out anyway for a routine oil change.
Get another smaller temp pan to catch the drips while the hose is absent.
Take the hose out and make note of the thread size and get fittings and a valve to go in between the two.

The system is great.
Makes changing oil a breeze compared to the old-fashioned suck-out-of-the- dipstick method used to perform on sailboat.

All our hoses stay permanently attached to the reverso pump contraption and then the master exit/drain hose has a removable cap and that just rests proped up against something in the bilge.
Always make sure that is on tight to prevent any drips from coming out.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. MG. My memory is non existent but I vaguely recall reading/hearing somewhere that attaching unsupported fittings to a diesel engine could cause cracking in said fitting due to vibrations. I suspect, if this is the case, a valve connected directly to the oil pan may cause problems whereas a rubber hose wouldn't with a valve at a remote (other than directly on the engine) location. As I said. Memory is non existent or I may have dreamed it....

 

[Comodave]

If it is connected to the engine it should be steel and not brass due to the vibration.

 

[Mac G]

Okay. That is good advice that was unaware of.
Thanks. Since mine were existing when we bought boat am hopeful they were done right, but will rig up a mirror and lights to investigate further.
Thank you.

 

[SeaDogAK]

I have a manifold on the ER aft bulkhead that all the lines feed into, just like the fuel manifold. There is a valve for each engine and one line that feeds out to the pump. The lines are permanently attached to the engines.

 

[mdstrum]

We have our connect all the time, on the engines we already had braided stainless hose connect at oil pain, we added an on/off value to that and then ran house to reverse so it is double on/off on each connect just to play it safe.

 

[Tom Daly]

My reverso is connected via a loop up about 10", so the only harm that can be done is with the pump on and it's valve open. Except of course for a leak in that 10" of hose.