Grand Banks Boarding Step

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Hooks are bronze from a broken swimgrid support, hull attachments 4" cleats, with the horns cut off, ladder I made.

Just running the mental math in my head.....

lever 4" on one side, 24" on the other.

Apply a weight of 250 pounds on on the long lever. = 1500 pounds of force on the opposite end. Of course split between to arms so 750 each.

It would worry me.
 
Rub Rail teak pad, and Bronze tread Casting on the top of the GB bulwark

We added a teak step strip to the top of the rub rail. Good traction.

I too have a GB 36. I use the "rub rail" for a step occasionally, and it is a little "uncertain" as mentioned by "Stoutmail". I liked the added teak step on the rub rail that you show, and wondered how it was attached. Glued (5200?), screwed (or thru-bolted), and tattooed (bedded in what?)? In that vein, I see most GB 32's have a bronze casting foot plate on the entry bulwark for foot traffic, but I don't see them on other models. Any idea where on could get a hold of 3 of those for the stern, port and starboard entry gates on the classic trawlers?
 
I cut the sides from 11.5 in x 23 in pieces. The step is 15 in wide, and 9 in deep. I made a pattern by cutting a piece of cardboard with scissors, using duct tape for adjusting small size and shape. The "channel" of the hook section is 2 3/4 in to fit/slide over rail. The "notch" below the step is the same height as the "hook" to clear the rub rail. The dimension from the radius that rests on rub rail and the hook that sits on gunwale rail is about 10 in....this dimension is critical..you want the weight to be carried by both surfaces..this requires "custom fitting"...port and starboard are slightly different.

The "feet" below the rub rail are to share the torque with the hook. They too will have to be fitted by making adjustments after assembly.

This design places stress on rub rail and gunwale that boat designer probably did not consider, so I tried to minimize forces by spreading loads onto more than one surface. I also over designed for strength as I figured wood kinda weakens over time when subjected to sun and rain. All of the joints where attached with screws and epoxy. I added strength for step by routering channels in the sides.

Mahogany is probably almost twice as strong as pine so 1 1/4 should be OK..just a bit harder to "machine" to make those "fitting" adjustments. (I used a knife to carve or whittle when fitting.)

We moved to a condo and I gave away most of my sophisticated woodworking tools. My tools were a hand held jig saw, a circular saw, a sharp hand saw, a router, a sharp knife, 4 in grinder, a Dremel die grinder, and an orbital sander..my work bench was the tailgate of my pickup.



My almost finished GB boat step IMG_6640.jpg
 
Could you hinge the steps so it would fold up?
I like this. Would make nice piece of brightwork.
 
I too have a GB 36. I use the "rub rail" for a step occasionally, and it is a little "uncertain" as mentioned by "Stoutmail". I liked the added teak step on the rub rail that you show, and wondered how it was attached. Glued (5200?), screwed (or thru-bolted), and tattooed (bedded in what?)? In that vein, I see most GB 32's have a bronze casting foot plate on the entry bulwark for foot traffic, but I don't see them on other models. Any idea where on could get a hold of 3 of those for the stern, port and starboard entry gates on the classic trawlers?

Bedded with Sikiflex and fastened with screws. Every so often I see the bronze toe rail step plates on eBay.
 
Last edited:
I don’t know how it could be hinged. It hangs on the transom step when underway.
I do have a four piece step that fits together like a puzzle, made for a sailboat. It could be modified to fit a GB or similar boat.
 
This hardware is available from Buck Algonquin Hardware
 

Attachments

  • boardingstep.jpg
    boardingstep.jpg
    128.7 KB · Views: 31
Back
Top Bottom