Best electric sander for fiberglass?

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TJM

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2013
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449
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Harmony
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1982 41' President
Looking to sand flat my textured painted decks to repaint. I am looking at electric corded random orbital sanders. Wow, what a price difference. Anywhere from $49 to $600. Trawler is 41' and this is probably a one time endeavor with minimal sanding after the project is completed. Was thinking under $200 probably?
Any suggestions?
 
Every brand from cheap to moderate I have used including air sanders, the bearings wear out so price accordingly or ones that can swap bearings easily.
 
I have both a Porter Cable 6" Random Orbital (10-years old) and a Rigid 6" Random Orbital (2-months old). In my opinion, the PC does a much better job at sanding. It has a bigger 'throw' of how much it oscillates and a stronger motor. I have replaced the sanding pad a couple times - the foam pads seem to disintegrate in the humid Florida climate every 4-5 years or so. Subjectively, I find the PC a bit lighter and I prefer holding the barrel-motor grip vs the raised handle of the Rigid (I also prefer my ancient Bosch jigsaw for the same reason). I also prefer the adhesive style to Velcro because the sanding disks are so much cheapter - can really chew through a lot of disks. I buy them in 100-disk rolls for about $20-$25. 100 hook/loop disks would be 3x-4x the price.

The Rigid does have some advantages. Definitely has a decent dust collection system. The pad has a shroud around it that can be connected to a shop vac. This shroud probably limits the 'throw' of the oscillation which makes it a lack-luster sander. Also, the dust collection probably needs to have a hook/loop disc because the holes for dust collection go through the pad and sanding disk. Also, the Rigid carries a lifetime service warranty (need to register it); and is more easily available via Home Depot. I think I paid around $100 for it. Porter Cable is around $150.

Bottom line - if you need/want dust collection, the Porter Cable is not a good choice. If you don't need it, the Porter Cable removes a LOT more material using same grit sandpaper.

Hope this helps.

Peter

6-in random orbital sanders porter cable ridgid.jpg
 
I like Ridgid tools from HD. They have a lifetime service contract if you register them online within 90 days. I did the same job you are going to do. I burned up one of the two DA sanders. Took it to HD and got a new one. I also use Ridgid shop vacs to capture the dust. Same warranty. Batteries too.
 
Any chance you already have a Shurhold polisher buffer? I have used mine a lot at a sander.
 
I have both a Porter Cable 6" Random Orbital (10-years old) and a Rigid 6" Random Orbital (2-months old). In my opinion, the PC does a much better job at sanding. It has a bigger 'throw' of how much it oscillates and a stronger motor. I have replaced the sanding pad a couple times - the foam pads seem to disintegrate in the humid Florida climate every 4-5 years or so. Subjectively, I find the PC a bit lighter and I prefer holding the barrel-motor grip vs the raised handle of the Rigid (I also prefer my ancient Bosch jigsaw for the same reason). I also prefer the adhesive style to Velcro because the sanding disks are so much cheapter - can really chew through a lot of disks. I buy them in 100-disk rolls for about $20-$25. 100 hook/loop disks would be 3x-4x the price.

The Rigid does have some advantages. Definitely has a decent dust collection system. The pad has a shroud around it that can be connected to a shop vac. This shroud probably limits the 'throw' of the oscillation which makes it a lack-luster sander. Also, the dust collection probably needs to have a hook/loop disc because the holes for dust collection go through the pad and sanding disk. Also, the Rigid carries a lifetime service warranty (need to register it); and is more easily available via Home Depot. I think I paid around $100 for it. Porter Cable is around $150.

Bottom line - if you need/want dust collection, the Porter Cable is not a good choice. If you don't need it, the Porter Cable removes a LOT more material using same grit sandpaper.

Hope this helps.

Peter

View attachment 138657

I have the porter cable 6" and love it, there was a dust collection kit sold for it at one point, discontinued now and really hard to find but there are some out there. I don't have one for mine but think I can fabricate one.
 
For raw power you can't beat a flooring edger. Thats how I did all the decks on the Green boat. Fore deck, side deck, cockpit and entire fly bridge. However it is very easy to get an uneven surface which will require a lot of fairing if you have not used one before.

Next powerful might be a Porter-Cable paint remover. Not made anymore but available on Craigslist etc.

https://nh.craigslist.org/tls/d/nashua-porter-cable-paint-remover/7609164370.html

Next would be the Porter-Cable 7000 series Peter recommends. I have one I bought in 1990 and use heavily in my hardwood flooring business. I have the 5" because it gets closer in the corners.

Most important, change paper often usually before you think you need to and use a light hand. The paper and machine do the work.

Good luck, wear a respirator not a dust mask.

Rob
 
For heavy removal, I just used my 5" grinder....requires a light, careful touch though.
 
For heavy removal, I just used my 5" grinder....requires a light, careful touch though.

That's also what I normally use.
But when I redid the flybridge on my old Mainship I I bought a 7 inch Makita grinder and plenty of 24 and 36 grit discs.
Made the job go sooo much faster.
 
Another vote for the porter cable. I sanded the paint off of a door at our dirt home last weekend and since my PC was down at the boat I borrowed my neighbor buddy’s rigid. Took me three times as long as it would have taken with the PC, that thing is a workhorse. One of the three beat tools I have ever owned.
 
My Makita works well. I also have a Milwaukee which does not work as well.

Get the velcro pads and disks, far better than any adhesive.

pete
 
The 6" Bosch orbital sander also has a nice long throw. And theirs (and I think a couple of other higher end units) have a geared orbit mode that's more aggressive than the standard random orbital, but still less aggressive (and less messy) than a rotary disc sander.



The rotary sanders are very fast, but can be kinda hard to use at times (they can be grabby and beat up your wrists). And in my experience, dust collection with them is a joke. Even with good shrouding and a strong vacuum, lots of junk gets forcefully shot out the side. Dust collection works much better on an orbital sander with vacuum through the disc holes (or a mesh disc) and around the side.
 
It may depend on where you are sanding. An increasing number of yards/ marinas are requiring sanders with high end dust collection systems be used (think Fein & equivalents $$$). Most often these are mandatory for bottom sanding ( & for safety reasons probably best that they are mandatory in those applications) so these may not apply for your application. Definitely check with your yard & boat neighbors. No one is happy if a downwind boat gets covered in sanding residue even on the hard.
I wish I had sprung for the Fein yrs ago. Definitely use a quality respirator also
 
I have to ask why are you sanding it flat?

BTW, another thread suggested that power washing removes the surface finish, may be an option.
 
I am sanding it flat / smooth to prep the surface for new paint. The original textured surface was painted about 15 yrs ago and is in real bad shape. The paint on the deck is lifting and peeling in the crevices of the cross diamond pattern. In order to repaint I need to remove all of that old paint. Unless there is another way ? I am also plugging quite a few holes of removed deck hardware.
 
For heavy removal, I just used my 5" grinder....requires a light, careful touch though.

That's how I stripped the bottom on the Green boat. I did buy a dust shroud which helped a lot.

Rob
 
Fein sanders are big bucks but a tool (and dust collection) you will love all your life. Jmho.
 
I own multiple random orbitals including Dewalt, Black and Decker, and an old Craftsman. Frankly I find they all work about the same. I find it makes a big difference what sanding medium you use, more than the machine itself. I've recently been trying the sanding mesh with good results. But even with conventional sandpaper, use good quality. If plan to use the sander regularly for a long period of time then buy a top quality brand (Dewalt, Porter Cable, Makita).

I also find it very useful to have a 1/4 sheet orbital since it can be used in places where you can't really use the 5" RO.
 
Not sure how many here use their gear on 100 percent fiberglass, sanding. .but it will destroy good vs cheap just as fast or nearly so.

Unless you have the ability to clean, lubricate and replace bearings...and I have seen both electric and air tools worn out in weeks to months.... be careful what you spend your money on.
 
Not sure how many here use their gear on 100 percent fiberglass, sanding. .but it will destroy good vs cheap just as fast or nearly so.

Unless you have the ability to clean, lubricate and replace bearings...and I have seen both electric and air tools worn out in weeks to months.... be careful what you spend your money on.

That is what is nice with Ridgid lifetime warranty.
 
I am sanding it flat / smooth to prep the surface for new paint. The original textured surface was painted about 15 yrs ago and is in real bad shape. The paint on the deck is lifting and peeling in the crevices of the cross diamond pattern. In order to repaint I need to remove all of that old paint. Unless there is another way ? I am also plugging quite a few holes of removed deck hardware.

That is exactly what I did on our last boat. I used Kiwigrip to texture paint after sanding.
 
I have returned them to HD and they sent them out for refurb. Came back with a new motor.
 
I have returned them to HD and they sent them out for refurb. Came back with a new motor.

Not for me in the HDs I went to.

Nor for the batteries.

I gave up and bought my replacements online. Way less expensive (but online doesn't honor the warranty I know) but they are inexpensive enough to be throwaways and the aftemarket batteries for 1/3 the cost are way better.
 
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The HD warranty seems pretty straightforward, but you do have to register the item with sales receipt when purchased (easy as you only have to input the code on the receipt). Once the account with Ridgid is established, should be easily accessible and used for warranty claims.

I really prefer the Porter Cable because it seems bulletproof and, side by side, removes a lot more material than the Ridgid. But no denying the waranty with Ridgid is compelling.

Peter
 
I have a Dewalt. It’s got probably 15 years on it. Possibly more. It cost $65. Original brushes. I use it with a shop vac attachment. I’ve sanded 700 ft.² of soffits, the teak floors on the boat. Cap rails, deck posts, wood doors, built in closets made of oak plywood. Wood trim. That tool probably has more hours on it than any other tool I own. It’s become a sentimental favorite. Is it the best sander out there? No it’s not but it’s the sander I have. And the best sander you can have, will be the sander you actually use.

In other words, you don’t necessarily need the best sander out there. You just want one that lasts.

The most important thing about sanding is don’t be miserly with sand paper. Change it regularly. Every 5 minutes. I buy boses with 60 pieces.
 
Agree on the frequent sanding disc changes. It will save a lot of time if you change often, more frequently than you might suspect. It will cut faster and in the end will make the job go much faster.
 
Not for me in the HDs I went to.

Nor for the batteries.

I gave up and bought my replacements online. Way less expensive (but online doesn't honor the warranty I know) but they are inexpensive enough to be throwaways and the aftemarket batteries for 1/3 the cost are way better.

No way am I going to accept that they will not honor the warranty. They have replaced several items that were in the initial 3 year warranty without and kick back. Also had one DA sander that was over 3 years old. They said I could send it to the repair facility or they would. I had them do it and it took about 2.5 weeks and it came back with a new motor. Easy peasy.
 
No way am I going to accept that they will not honor the warranty. They have replaced several items that were in the initial 3 year warranty without and kick back. Also had one DA sander that was over 3 years old. They said I could send it to the repair facility or they would. I had them do it and it took about 2.5 weeks and it came back with a new motor. Easy peasy.
Comodave - I own three Porter Cable 6-inch sanders. Bought the first one over 30 years ago. I own several because I have one boat and two houses. Now, i don't recall how much work I've done with any single one, but I do know I've done at least 4 bottom jobs with two of them - full sanding removal of bottom paint (long ago when that type of work was allowed). With the exception of replacing the pad, I have never had a failure. Not even brushes which is amazing when I think about it. Especially given how abusive the inherent sanding action is to a motor and bearings.

My newest PC sander is probably 7-10 years old so maybe they're different now. But they have been amazingly durable.

My question to you: sounds like you've had a couple failures of your Ridgid sander. But you sound like you use it a lot. In your opinion, do you think the failures were inline with usage? As mentioned above, the HD warranty is compelling, and I've had nothing but good experiences with returning stuff to HD as they view it as a cost of business so I would expect nothing but courtesy if I returned my Ridgid for repair. But compared to my long term experience with my Porter Cable, sounds like the Ridgid may not be as durable? But I really don't know.

Peter
 
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