Alternative to varnish

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Clear penetrating epoxy base

I second the post suggesting sealing the clean teak with a clear penetrating two part epoxy. Smith's is one formulation and probably the original, but there is competition now on the market. We applied three coats epoxy, then three varnish to UV protect the epoxy seal. Theory is the varnish won't suffer from natural oils in teak and therefore weather slowly, and only ever need touch ups, hoping for multi-years between those.
 
Teak treatment

My Fairways Trawler 38 had teak bulwark capping and trimming. Tried many treatments, and ended with SEMCO. Sand to bare wood, and apply the Semco teak cleaner/brightener, then the Semco treatment. Test to check re treatment by dripping water on the surface. If it soaks in - re application is required. I found re application was required every 6 months in the North Sea environment. Keep on top of it and re sanding is not necessary. Had many admirers on our marina.
 
I am using Cetol at the moment after trying everything else and am very happy with it but have thought very strongly about painting some of the harder to sand/maintain areas and think that colour you have chosen is fantastic, I was unable to find anything that close to the right colour on any of the International paint colour charts and wondered if you could share what that colour is and the manufacturer please?

So you tried Awlwood and then decided to go back to Cetol? you said you tried everything so I'm assuming you tried Awlwood. I've just never heard of an Awlwood user going back to Cetol, Varnish or oil.
 
So you tried Awlwood and then decided to go back to Cetol? you said you tried everything so I'm assuming you tried Awlwood. I've just never heard of an Awlwood user going back to Cetol, Varnish or oil.

It has only been a month since we were back in the water, but I am very happy with my choice of Awlwood too.
 
I am using Cetol at the moment after trying everything else and am very happy with it but have thought very strongly about painting some of the harder to sand/maintain areas and think that colour you have chosen is fantastic, I was unable to find anything that close to the right colour on any of the International paint colour charts and wondered if you could share what that colour is and the manufacturer please?


We brought a piece of the rail to Lowes and the paint guy mixed up the exact color using Sherwin Williams Evershield Exterior Semi Gloss as a base. A year later, and still looking good.
 
I stripped down mine and put on 4 coats of West System with 207 special hardner. You can do all the coats in one day. Then I put on perfection plus - a two part 'varnish' and it has lasted for 4 years with NO work at all! It is fading and needs to be sanded and another couple of coats put on but I've been amazed at how well it has held up.
This is in the SF Bay area so not like FL...
But if you want to paint this is also a great base so you can go back to bright later if you want.

Ditto Perfection Plus!
 
I stripped down mine and put on 4 coats of West System with 207 special hardner. You can do all the coats in one day. Then I put on perfection plus - a two part 'varnish' and it has lasted for 4 years with NO work at all! It is fading and needs to be sanded and another couple of coats put on but I've been amazed at how well it has held up.
This is in the SF Bay area so not like FL...
But if you want to paint this is also a great base so you can go back to bright later if you want.

Ditto Perfection Plus (without the epoxy base coat)!
 
DJK,

No exterior teak on my 2006 NT, but interior teak is all oiled. NT originally put on Daly's Seafin Oil, multiple coats and hand rubbed. Where there is interior exposure to rain (around doors), and wear (interior steps), a periodic light sanding (or 3M Scotch Brite pad), and a couple of hand-rubbed Seafin coats is required. NT recommends interior teak be wiped and dusted with 50/50 Seafin and lemon oil. For exterior use, I used Seafin on teak seats and trim on my Trinka dink. With 6 months exposure in New England, this requires an annual sanding and recoat. Per Daly's "Seafin is a penetrating oil that dries to a low sheen to seal and protect interior and exterior wood".
 
I was always impressed with Daly’s Seafin oil. It worked amazingly well on exterior Teak as long as you religiously cleaned and reapplied twice a year. On the interior it might be the best possible finish available.
 
I agree, and I include all their products. Which even though Seattle based Daly's closed it's doors some years ago, (my guess too many staff that always spent a lot of time with you) the product continues to be made and highly recommended. I was surprised to see it used in Rhode Island!
 
Quick note on Seafin. We can only get it out here ordering it online. Seafin oil is reportedly a mixture of teak oil and 15% varnish, therefore the "low sheen".
Seafin is a little expensive... $30+ per quart and over $10+ for shipping. When I run out of my current supply, I'm going to try a good quality marine teak oil (e.g. Star Brite or Amazon), and add 15% varnish.
 
Seafin oil definitely builds up to a light varnish-like finish if you put on enough coats. Teak oils and varnishes are a continuum of oil with little or no resin, up to heavy varnishes with a lot of resin and a little oil. Something like Starbrite at one end, Epifanes at the other, "rubbing" varnishes in the middle. Seafin seems to be a little towards the Starbrite end from rubbing varnishes.
 
Great info to my question. As with everything boating there seem to be many "best" solutions. For my application - teak handrails and cabin doors I'm going to try stripping and coating with Semco Sealer.

A question for the Semco users: Can a varnish be applied over a Semo finish without stripping?
 
I've always used Daly's Profin but have never used Seafin. I wonder what the difference is? Profin use to have a lot of solids that would settle out. Not so much anymore.
 
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