Lou_tribal
Guru
This guy has the tools you need:
L.
L.
Ok is this a dumb question? Why not epoxy the whole thing together. Do the proper fit including key and then use epoxy on prop key and nuts. This should keep water out and decrease crevice corrosion and help keep everything together without movement until a torch is applied to remove prop. Is this thinking out of the box or is it too far out?
That's what I do.Some thoughts for the engineers:
Would a castellated nut work?
Would wiring the nut work?
Would lining up the gaps to insert the lock pin inhibit correctly tightening the nut?
Would a pin hole weaken the shaft?
Someone will be pleased your shaft and nuts are back in order.Got the prop cleaned and back on. Tightened the hell out of it with a pipe wrench. Everything seems tight.
I'm getting the hell out of here before I break something!
That's along the line that Seaboard recommends... at least re: the nut - he uses 5200 which in my mind is similar - heat req'd to be break loose.
Get a key that fits reasonably well and the most important part is to make sure the taper fits very well - lapping is the most important part of everything noted... do that and keeping a prop tight is easy.
many folks believe the key does the work holding prop / shaft aligned when in fact the taper is what does the majority of the work.
MANY Lathe & Drill press chucks have tapers and NO keys and NO nuts to hold them in place - if the taper is a good fit it doesn't move
Someone will be pleased your shaft and nuts are back in order.
...Some thoughts for the engineers:
Would a castellated nut work?
Not a good solution if you have to "back off" the nut to align w pin
Would wiring the nut work?
That's "seizing" and what Seaboard recommends - I did mine this way and it hasn't moved in 4 Yrs
Would lining up the gaps to insert the lock pin inhibit correctly tightening the nut?
Not sure what you mean but it may be what I mention above??
Would a pin hole weaken the shaft?
Technically Yes - but - the pin (or seizing) hole is beyond the threads where the load is on the shaft
Shaft failures are frequently and the front end of the keyway... when the prop slip the load shifts to the key / keyway
If you put 5200 on the threads, how would you service it, if you had to, while it was in the water?
Some thoughts for the engineers:
Would a castellated nut work?
That's along the line that Seaboard recommends... at least re: the nut - he uses 5200 which in my mind is similar - heat req'd to be break loose..............
You don't want to put Never Sieze or lubricants on the shaft since it will inhibit the prop from seating fully on the shaft. Do the lapping and then put the large nut on and tighten the prop fully. Then remove the large nut and install the small nut and then the large nut last. Using the large nut to draw the prop onto the shaft has more threads in contact with the shaft and won't strip as easily. But you do want the large nut on last since it will unload the small nut somewhat. If the small nut is on last you won't have as many threads holding the load.
What's the spin on using NeverSieze?
On the taper.
I've had trouble getting props off in the past and thought about it but now that I use a MAP gas torch (hotter) getting the prop off is'nt a problem.