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Old 11-23-2013, 11:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
Guess I shouldn't have used "rubber" as a generic term. there are literally thousands of rubber "like" materials I actually don't know what it is only that over time it becomes extremely soft, almost jelly like. A condition that worsens with heat, then chokes the fuel until it cools and shrinks slightly.
Most o-rings used in fuel systems and hydraulics are made from Buna-N, or a derivative of this. Normally there is minimal swelling/shrinkage unless the temperature range is exceeded (-40 to 250F) They have poor resistance to UV damage and weathering though.

Occasionally Neoprene is used, only good to 225F, but more weathering resistance. These are often used in cooling systems and A/C systems.

A better quality Oring material for fuel systems is Viton. Good to 400F and excellent chemical resistance. You may have to go to a specialist supplier for these though.
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:37 AM   #22
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Anybody have part #'s or links to either mechanical or electric lift pumps for the Perkins 6.354? It sounds like a very good item to keep in spares!

Here's some sources for you. The 1st is just informational giving places and part #s to look under. I didn't include a link but TADiesels.com is a US parts house as well and deals with lots of marine specific items-this pump is not marine specific. They have it for about $57. There are versions of this pump available as well without the manual primer lever-so be sure you check a picture before buying.

Perkins Fuel Pump G2641720


Perkins Fuel Pump Part #: 2641720 for Sale! | TruPar America


1446 951 M91 2641720 2641729 - Discounted all Tractor Parts Catalog
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:39 AM   #23
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... the reason your fan belt stops squealing after it warms up is that the alternator load has reduced after it replaces the voltage used from the battery when starting. Less load, stops slipping.
That too ...

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Old 11-24-2013, 09:27 AM   #24
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I carry spares engine belts too-So that's ALL irrelevant to my original intent to let folks know that just because the manual lever still moves fuel doesn't mean the engine operated arm is working the diaphragm enough to pump fuel. So crack those lines between the lift pump and the engine filter or injection pump.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:41 AM   #25
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The lift pump can fail from a failed diaphragm. If that happens it is possible on some engines for fuel to get into the oil supply. It is worth checking your oil for fuel contamination.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:44 AM   #26
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The slipping alt belt , usually is far too weak to overload an alternator ball bearing.

What happens is the pulley gets really hot , the heat is passed down the shaft , the bearing LUBE leaks out and the bearing is toast.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:57 AM   #27
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The lift pump can fail from a failed diaphragm. If that happens it is possible on some engines for fuel to get into the oil supply. It is worth checking your oil for fuel contamination.
Yes, in fact boating 101 suggests we check our oil daily when cruising. While you're at it do the same with the coolant and transmission oil. For oils, not only is it for level but also smell and color.

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Old 12-17-2013, 01:02 AM   #28
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Turns out one of the one-way valves inside the pump had come out of its bore!!!! I ordered a new rebuild kit-naturally it didn't contain the parts for my pump. It did however have a valve and seal and the diaphragm that matched my pump and I peened the entire lip around the valve's bore. I wouldn't rebuild this one again since doing that but I now have a back-up again. It lasted 30 yrs, and I can't see me owning this boat for another 30. I should be fine on the lift pump (knock wood) for my ownership term. Now if I can just find a replacement injection pump for my Volvo MD5 and get my old genset back up and running!
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:55 AM   #29
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Found these and have used them before on race cars with carbs. Which one would you use on twin Volvos TMAD60 C 250 hp? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...FUgS7AodKnIATQ
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:36 AM   #30
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Those are all "gas" pumps. I've heard of numerous failures with folks using other gas designed pumps. There are numerous diesel pumps available aftermarket. Personally, if it would meet the demands of the engine I'd use one of the Carter lift pumps used on Dodge trucks after 98.5. These got a bad reputation for failing due to heat and vibration at about the 80-100K mark. Relocating them off the engine seemed to remedy this issue. There are more HD pumps available that weren't full-on HP pump/filter assemblies. This is the route I preemptively went with on my Dodge. Placing an appropriately scaled pressure gauge between these pumps and the engine give a continuous indication of the pump's health and they typically give lots of warning that they are weakening via reduced output pressure. I'm sure Volvo has recommendations as well and will be spec'd for your particular engine.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:09 AM   #31
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Those are all "gas" pumps.


Facet® Cube Fuel Pumps | Facet Purolator

Fuel Compatibility: All models of the Facet Cube Fuel Pumps are compatible with gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, blended alcohol fuels and fuel additives.



Facet®/Purolator® High Performance GOLD-FLO® Solid State Fuel Pump Kits | Facet Purolator

Fuel Compatibility: All models of the Facet High Performance Gold-Flo Solid State Fuel Pumps are compatible with gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, blended alcohol fuels and fuel additives.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:48 AM   #32
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Yup busted. I didn't read about their compatibilities. When AT said he ran them on race cars and the ad said "Racers", I made an ASSumption.

I had never heard of the Facet brand, but was up on the automotive diesel "scene" just a few years back. If you have had experience with them on your gas powered rigs and want to use one (two) on your boat by all means, go for it. Personally I try to remove as many electrical components as I can from operations that are mandatory for my boat to move under control. If I HAVE to have an electrical part in my engine's operating system I try to use items with known reliability. If I had twin engines and didn't travel in inclement weather, current, high traffic, off shore, etc I might be more inclined to experiment. My boat however is a single engine vessel that I run in all the above conditions and its a pleasure boat. A big part of it being able to live up to its pleasure designation is feeling it will reliably get back to its berth under its own power. No I'm not an ostrich with my head in the sand--I know electronics are here to stay and steadily weaseling their way into more and more systems. My boat can operate satisfactorily burning less than 2 GPH and other than fuel filters, this "unheard of" lift pump throwing a check valve is the only time it has caused a delay in an outing. I don't care to increase my engine's efficiency what is in my opinion a miniscule amount at the expense of my comfort with its reliability.
If you want to use one of the pumps you linked, find your engine's fuel flow requirements (not its GPH burn) and order a pump that will match or exceed that number. Engine's with a diesel return fuel system need more fuel than they burn.
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:56 PM   #33
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[QUOTE=twiisted71;199273 fuel filters, this "unheard of" lift pump throwing a check valve .[/QUOTE]


Not all that "unheard of". I had a diaphram lift pump fail on my Dodge/Cummins and it was only about 1 1/2 years old. I discected it and found that the checkvalves had failed. They were rubber and the fuel ate them away until they were no longer large enough to cover the fuel ports. It was a Carter pump. I know of a few others that had a similar issue (they did not the forensics).
So it does happen.
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:21 PM   #34
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I just replaced by electric lift pumps last week. Used Walbro FRB-13 7psi pumps as well.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:13 PM   #35
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JL my valves didn't fail. One of them actually came out of the bore it was pressed in. The check valves are a Stainless contraption about the size of 2 stacked nickels with the flapper captured inside.

Walbro is one of the few fuel pump mfrs. I'd consider reputable enough to give a shot on my boat if needed.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:31 PM   #36
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One quick feedback on the Walbros. They have a strainer built into the upper (intake) side of the pump body that is removable by a single bolt on the top. I needed to orient both intakes to point towards their respective tanks, but one of the strainers gave me a heck of a time re-sealing the little o-ring.

I realized I may wanna have a spare O-ring tucked away and having the experience of changing it without any pressure of haste was something I'd recommend anyone installing them look at.

Nothing particularly difficult, but more fun at the dock.
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