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Old 04-12-2013, 07:56 AM   #1
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Dirty water accumulator???

Has anyone had to replace an accumulator due to dirty water? I think my accumulator is releasing dirty water into my system. It may be rusty inside. I have done several flushes doing a full drain with the pump off to clear the water. After it sits idle for 6 hours the first gallon is dirty again. It's a Groco PST1.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:05 AM   #2
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Most 'modern day' accumulators have a bladder inside to prevent rust in the system. It it's ruptured then the accumulator will have to be replaced.
If yours does not have a bladder and rusty, the rust won't go away and needs to be replaced.
My vote is to replace.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:08 AM   #3
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Dave: We have never had the problem but an easy way to see if the accumulator is the issue is to disconnect it from the system and see if you still get the "dirty" water. It could also come the hot-water heater or are there any galvanized or metal fittings anywhere in the system?
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:23 AM   #4
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The domestic water system does not really need an accumulated, The Accumulator is to soften the shock/pressure of the water being turned off. In dirt house the end ot the water pipe is about 1 ft above the faucet creating a air cushion. It also reduced the number of times the water pump comes on because of the bladder, if the water pump come on when the water is not turned on to pressure up then you have a small water leak. You can buy small accumulator for about 75 bucks. Being the accumulate takes the sudden shock/pressure it easier on the boat water system.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:28 PM   #5
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try running some vinegar through the system - leave it in the accumulator for some time. It can remove rust and it will clean out scales and mineral deposits and it will kill 99.9% of all germs in your system.

Its a cheap trick - but might do the job for you.

Do the same with the loo once in a while....
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:20 PM   #6
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BoatUS - BoatTech - Boat Plumbing by Don Casey

Accumulator

Some water systems include an accumulator. Large accumulators have pressurized bladders in them, but most small ones are just empty tanks teed into the line downstream of the pump. When the pump runs, it tries to fill the tank from the bottom, compressing the air trapped inside the tank. The pressure from the tank allows small amounts of water to be drawn without the necessity of the pump running, thus reducing pump cycling.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:47 PM   #7
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The Jabsco 30573-0000 tank I installed a few months ago has an internal bladder. It's small and inexpensive and made a great addition to my potable water system. It saves the pump from chattering on and off if just a small flow of water is desired.

A tank without a bladder will have to be repressurized from time to time as the air charge dissolves into the water.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:48 PM   #8
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I have the same accumulator. It's ~25 years old now and the only trouble was the need to recharge the bladder after all that time.
But no rust, so far.

I too would check carefully to ensure the dirt/rust isn't from another source. The accumulator could catch debris from another source and then feed it although it sounds like you have done a good job trying to rinse it. Just be sure it truly is at fault.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:16 AM   #9
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"The domestic water system does not really need an accumulated, The Accumulator is to soften the shock/pressure of the water being turned off."

Many pumps will have a very short life with no accumulator as water is incompressable.

The older belted Jabscoe being the worst.

The momentum of the running pump is enough to cause internal damage on shutoff .

While an older accum might add rust , the HW heater if not all aluminum or SS might be a better place to start.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:28 AM   #10
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Dave remove the accumulator and install cap or plug in tee as required and try flushing again. If clear and stays clear you've found your problem. Replace it the accumulator with new.

If dirty water returns reinstall your accumulator and continue trouble shooting. Most of the bases have been covered above.

Is it hot only, cold only, or are both sides affected equally?
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:48 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the great input. Based on the systems response I am pretty sure its the accumulator. It only happens with cold, but that just mean the accumulator is pushed into the hot water tank when hot is on and it is diluted and I dont see it. I will post a picture when I cut open the old one after the new one gets here and I install it.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:20 AM   #12
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BE sure the replacement is as large as you can easily fir and itt MUST have a bladder.

The cheapos with no bladder require the FW system to be bled down often so air (which is absorbed by water) can refill the accumulator .
PIA.

I have seen SS in the tiny 1 gallon size at Home Cheapo ,no need for the "marine" $$$$$ versions.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
BE sure the replacement is as large as you can easily fir and itt MUST have a bladder.

The cheapos with no bladder require the FW system to be bled down often so air (which is absorbed by water) can refill the accumulator .
PIA...............
The one I installed was under $70.00 and it has a bladder. I don't think they make one cheaper than that. Plastic works great in this application because the pressure is low and it's cold water.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:36 AM   #14
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And the answer is....

The accumulator had rust in it. The entrance fitting was very rusty due to no protective coatings. The water side of the vessel is plastic coated and was intact as you can see I wiped out the rust in the 2nd picture. The rust in the 2nd picture is a stain. My entire system is plastic with aluminum tanks. I may have set this up but shocking the system with Clorox twice in the last four seasons. Problem solve, new accumulator is in.
Dave
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:58 AM   #15
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