Type of Dingy, Inflatable or NOT?

[Lou_tribal]

If it's molded plastic, OK. I don't care how ugly it is.

I found one that meet this criteria, molded plastic, economical, and made with recycled materials, but ugly:

Made with an old fridge!

 

[JDCAVE]

If your goal is to maximize the usable space of your dinghy, any type of inflatable,is not the best option. For the same footprint your dinghy takes up on the boat deck, you loose interior space within your dinghy to the pontoons. Second, I don't believe inflatables tow as well as a FRP or aluminum dinghy.

 

[koliver]

Ahhhh Dave,
Stability. That, is the one I missed. And could be the most important one of all. Tippy? Ewew. Fear of tipping over. So if ya put your food in the wrong place in a canoe while stepping aboard ya tip over. Of course .. boating requires thinking. Course if ya put water wings on a real boat you even get more stability. So why haven't water wings caught on? Oh yea ... it would look like you're riding a bicycle w training wheels ... an incompetent.

Peter,
Mostly correct but only a very few are light. I have a 10' FG dinghy and it weighs less than 100lbs.
But your "dosn't take much power to drive them" must be from another planet. The only thing you can do w them in the water that is worth doing is reading a book. Like a swiming pool activity. All of them are total dogs in motion. That is .. compared to an aluminum skiff or a Trinka or similar.

Eric

There is, amongst those who have never rowed a soft bottom inflatable, a perception that you have well expressed.

My experience is from the same planet as Peter.

Many years ago, when the kids were small, but we had already moved up through too small dinghies to an Achilles 11' soft bottom with a hard, 5 piece floor. Our first cruise with our newly joined YC took us to several group activities, among which was a series of dinghy races. Not having any history as a good rowing racer, I was as surprised as any to see the soft hypalon bottomed 11' inflatable take the field in every race, against all manner of other dinghies. In those days most were still in FG boats that looked like they should row well. They did, but only within the limits of their hull design.

 

[dhays]

Eric



There is, amongst those who have never rowed a soft bottom inflatable, a perception that you have well expressed.



My experience is from the same planet as Peter.



Many years ago, when the kids were small, but we had already moved up through too small dinghies to an Achilles 11' soft bottom with a hard, 5 piece floor. Our first cruise with our newly joined YC took us to several group activities, among which was a series of dinghy races. Not having any history as a good rowing racer, I was as surprised as any to see the soft hypalon bottomed 11' inflatable take the field in every race, against all manner of other dinghies. In those days most were still in FG boats that looked like they should row well. They did, but only within the limits of their hull design.

A rowing dinghy will have a certain hull speed and it would be very hard to row faster than that. A RIB will have a planing hull. Short term, the RIB could be faster but I wouldn't want to row far with them.

 

[Larry M]

A rowing dinghy will have a certain hull speed and it would be very hard to row faster than that. A RIB will have a planing hull. Short term, the RIB could be faster but I wouldn't want to row far with them.

Yup. We had a 9.5' Gig Harbor. It rowed wonderfully and was fun to sail around the anchorage. With the OB, hull speed only. We sold it after 2 seasons. Every dinghy is a compromise.

 

[AlaskaProf]

...molded plastic... don't care how ugly it is.

My marina neighbors have a Portland Pudgy. First one ive seen. Uuuugly, but light and highly functional. If I didnt already have too many boats (is that possible?), I'd consider it.

 

[Bruce B]

My marina neighbors have a Portland Pudgy. First one ive seen. Uuuugly, but light and highly functional. If I didnt already have too many boats (is that possible?), I'd consider it.

I'll second the ugly part!
Bruce

 

[CPseudonym]

Once you get away from the Trinka and other high end row/sail boats almost every dinghy is ugly. Proportions are out of skew, especially with inflatables.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Wxx3,
Look up the Lund boats ans see if they still make a lightweight 11' basic aluminum skiff .... red/orange sides like was posted before. Saw one in Alaska and tried to buy it but the owner would have nore of my buy talk.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Eric

There is, amongst those who have never rowed a soft bottom inflatable, a perception that you have well expressed.

My experience is from the same planet as Peter.

Many years ago, when the kids were small, but we had already moved up through too small dinghies to an Achilles 11' soft bottom with a hard, 5 piece floor. Our first cruise with our newly joined YC took us to several group activities, among which was a series of dinghy races. Not having any history as a good rowing racer, I was as surprised as any to see the soft hypalon bottomed 11' inflatable take the field in every race, against all manner of other dinghies. In those days most were still in FG boats that looked like they should row well. They did, but only within the limits of their hull design.

Interesting,
But I'll bet the hard dinghies in that race were Livingstons and other hulls not designed for rowing. I notice mine goes a lot faster w/o Chris sitting in the stern. With a light enough person and good oars a round stern duckie may indeed get along quite well. No wavemaking resistance to speak of ... just wetted surface. But 99% of them ........

 

[Bruce B]

Once you get away from the Trinka and other high end row/sail boats almost every dinghy is ugly. Proportions are out of skew, especially with inflatables.

While I agree that the Trinka is pretty and expensive, there are less expensive hard dinghies that are attractive too.
Here is one I think is a bargain!
Bruce

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/dinghy-rowing-10-6--rigid-v-rail-vinyl-gunwal-33923.html

 

[tadhana]

Rowing dinghies are designed to operate at displacement speeds. Inflatables are designed to plane. A displacement hull dinghy will be a much greater load on the painter when towing at speed above the dinghy's hull speed. For those who question which tows better, an inflatable does tow much better than a rowing dinghy. It can get up on plane. Rough conditions will impact the towing of any dinghy. in rough conditions you want to take the oars etc out and the outboard off.

The issue of stability has already been discussed. One aspect of stability that is important, is what's known as "Free Surface Effect". After a rain, as you step into a dinghy, the water flows to that side of he boat. This reduces the righting moment. A rowing dinghy full of water is very tender. An inflatable dinghy does not lose stability nearly to the extent of a rowing dinghy. You can still stand on the tube of a rain filled inflatable an not flip it over.

One other unusual benefit of a rib or an inflatable is that you can leave the cockpit drain open if you are expecting heayv rain. the dinghy will continue to float just about normally and the rain water will flow out through the drain. After the rain ends, get into the dinghy, close the drain and pump out the little residual water.

 

[smitty477]

"One other unusual benefit of a rib or an inflatable is that you can leave the cockpit drain open if you are expecting heayv rain. the dinghy will continue to float just about normally and the rain water will flow out through the drain. After the rain ends, get into the dinghy, close the drain and pump out the little residual water."


A good point for those of us who have the dinghy with us all the time. I would add that the RIBS we have owned are self bailing and if there is a residual amount of water left after they drain it will escape once the RIB is put up on plane without any action by the user.
We have towed a number of various RIBS at 7-18 knots for 1,000's of miles with great results over the years.

 

[BandB]

Rowing dinghies are designed to operate at displacement speeds. Inflatables are designed to plane. A displacement hull dinghy will be a much greater load on the painter when towing at speed above the dinghy's hull speed. For those who question which tows better, an inflatable does tow much better than a rowing dinghy. It can get up on plane. Rough conditions will impact the towing of any dinghy. in rough conditions you want to take the oars etc out and the outboard off.

The issue of stability has already been discussed. One aspect of stability that is important, is what's known as "Free Surface Effect". After a rain, as you step into a dinghy, the water flows to that side of he boat. This reduces the righting moment. A rowing dinghy full of water is very tender. An inflatable dinghy does not lose stability nearly to the extent of a rowing dinghy. You can still stand on the tube of a rain filled inflatable an not flip it over.

One other unusual benefit of a rib or an inflatable is that you can leave the cockpit drain open if you are expecting heayv rain. the dinghy will continue to float just about normally and the rain water will flow out through the drain. After the rain ends, get into the dinghy, close the drain and pump out the little residual water.

I read your post and other comments about rain in a dinghy and I find myself a bit confused over the lack of the use of covers. It just seems like the simplest and most obvious way to prevent rain water filling one. We use them, when not using the RIB, and I'm curious why others don't.

 

[tadhana]

BandB do you have a cover for your dinghy for when it is in the water? We have a fitted cover for our dinghy but would find it almost impossible to set it up if the dinghy were in the water. We cover the dinghy when we are in a marina for a week or more. Have chaps on it for extra protection from summer and tropical sun.

 

[smitty477]

"We use them, when not using the RIB, and I'm curious why others don't."


We use covers but not all the time....
- not while under tow
- not when we are on a RIB 'trip' and are stopped
- not on long explorations when it may (haha) rain on us and the RIB


Having traveled through some real heavy rains over hours while in der tow with RIBS that drain and one that did not is eye opening.

 

[BandB]

BandB do you have a cover for your dinghy for when it is in the water? We have a fitted cover for our dinghy but would find it almost impossible to set it up if the dinghy were in the water. We cover the dinghy when we are in a marina for a week or more. Have chaps on it for extra protection from summer and tropical sun.

We can cover it in the water although not what we normally do. We don't leave it in the water. Either up top or on the swim platform and we keep it covered either way.

 

[CaptTom]

Thinking a simple slat floor will work fine as there are 2 flats on either side of the vee aft of the seat.

I was thinking along the same lines, for all the same reasons. Haven't really settled on a good, lightweight, removable and stowable solution yet.

But I do like the idea of a slat or checkerboard floor better than a piece of plywood, which was my best idea so far.

 

[ranger58sb]

I read your post and other comments about rain in a dinghy and I find myself a bit confused over the lack of the use of covers. It just seems like the simplest and most obvious way to prevent rain water filling one. We use them, when not using the RIB, and I'm curious why others don't.

In our case, we can't easily get around all sides of the dinghy -- when it's mounted on the transom -- to get a cover on. Tried it, lots o' work. Bagged it for on-boat use. And then a heavy snow load during winter storage ripped the cover. Bagged it altogether.

-Chris

 

[BandB]

In our case, we can't easily get around all sides of the dinghy -- when it's mounted on the transom -- to get a cover on. Tried it, lots o' work. Bagged it for on-boat use. And then a heavy snow load during winter storage ripped the cover. Bagged it altogether.

-Chris

We haven't been subject to a heavy snow. As to the far side of it when on the transom, we actually position that prior to lifting it, from inside the dinghy.

 

[psneeld]

I was thinking along the same lines, for all the same reasons. Haven't really settled on a good, lightweight, removable and stowable solution yet.

But I do like the idea of a slat or checkerboard floor better than a piece of plywood, which was my best idea so far.

In my case I don't have to remove it....

May just see what cedar lath used for verticals in fencing ....stapled together might do....

 

[kthoennes]

We got a nice heavy cover for our inflatable last season. It came with nylon webbing straps and plastic buckles. Nope, threw them out, nearly impossible to put them on in the water with straps and clips. Now we use bungies and it slips on like a shower cap. Keeps the rain out, reduces marine growth around the water line (at least a little), and it reduces U/V damage. It's definitely worth the trouble. Now if I can just find a stinking good way to affix the registration numbers and stickers without spending $9 billion or having number plates flopping around.

 

[smitty477]

"Now if I can just find a stinking good way to affix the registration numbers and stickers without spending $9 billion or having number plates flopping around."


I have had good results with taking a sheet of the RIBS tube repair material and cutting a rectangle (about 5 X 5 inches) that will hold a few inches of the ends on those typical number boards that hold the numbers/letters. Utilizing two of these rectangles per number board you take the rectangle and slit one side about 1 inch in and adhere it to the tubes such that all sides are adhered with the slit towards the number board left open the balance of the rectangle.
Plan to adhere the rectangles so that the number board needs to be 'flexed' completely to fit into the two slits at each end before flattening it out when completely inserted in each side.
This has worked on RIB's in heavier use and at higher speeds than most will realize.

 

[CPseudonym]

Use a Sharpie Marker. If you are a bad artist find a family member or friend who can sketch and let them do it. About as cheap and permanent as it gets.

 

[kthoennes]

Use a Sharpie Marker. If you are a bad artist find a family member or friend who can sketch and let them do it. About as cheap and permanent as it gets.

Thought of that and I read that solution on some forums, but then I still have to deal with the reg sticker somehow. And then even more annoying, this year the state switched to new plates and registration numbers. They switch every five years.

 

[JimTid]

Portland Pudgy with weaver lifting davits and a 2hp Honda works well.

 

[ranger58sb]

We haven't been subject to a heavy snow. As to the far side of it when on the transom, we actually position that prior to lifting it, from inside the dinghy.

What? No snow down there? We had it once when we lived near FLL...

OK, maybe we didn't.



We tried all manner of antics to get the cover on, including starting while in the water, sitting in the dink after bringing it onto the davits, etc. It wasn't impossible, just turned out to be more time and trouble than it was worth. And we also had to futz around with the same support risers that were supposed to have dealt with snow load -- to eliminate puddling during heavy rains -- and they were irritating, too.

It just became much easier to just load the thing, remove the drain plug, let it fend for itself. It doesn't hold enough rainwater to strain our load-bearing capacity, and it's easy enough to drain when we launch. Or after an especially heavy rain, should that happen when we're paying attention to it.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

Now if I can just find a stinking good way to affix the registration numbers and stickers without spending $9 billion or having number plates flopping around.

FWIW, I think MD has recently changed the law making number plates illegal.

When we got our current dink, the dealer used some sort of magic to glue the numbers on. I dunno what they did, but whatever they used seems to have worked well. Maybe the solution for hypalon (ours) is different from whatever works for PVC...

I do have to worry a bit about the bi-annual MD registration sticker... although I discovered never deflating the tubes helps (now that we have a trailer for off-season storage)... and instructing the cleaning crew to not scrape the thing off every time they wash helps a bit.

-Chris

 

[psneeld]

I like the method Flywright has brought up.

Put cheap vinyl numbers on. Tape a box around it and mask off rest of dingy.

Spray hypalon or pvc compatible paint of contrasting color of the dink.

Peel numbers and masking off.

 

[HiDHo]

Check out the Nut Shell Pram at woodenboat.com
You can buy the plans and do the 7'7" model for about $5-600. I built one years ago and my 2 hp outboard worked fine. There is also a larger model, both can be built and rigged as sailing dinghys.