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Old 10-07-2016, 02:31 PM   #21
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Hmmm...me-thinks they either left out the "1" in front of the $79,000 or a whole bunch of information.

Cool boat though.
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:58 PM   #22
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I love this boat.
Its like a Willard 40 on steroids.
Those bronze deck fittings and radiators are so cool.
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:51 PM   #23
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I don't think they left off the "1". Right or wrong they sell for way less than other popular build materials.
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:04 PM   #24
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Looks like a fine old boat that has lasted for decades already and will last many more decades.
I would have no hesitations, it is cheap for what it has and offers to a new owner.
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:35 PM   #25
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This boat came on market some years ago at $125000 and I lusted for it then. I love gardner engines and it is such a lovely design. Still out of my price range!!
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:54 PM   #26
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Stainless steel armature ...... ss corrodes in the absence of oxygen !
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:55 PM   #27
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If a really good one ( construction and design/looks ) can be had for well less than a comparable glass boat it might be a option......
HOLLYWOOD
It would be nice to know, how this one was built? Does anyone has a source to look up a particular FC boat building history?

1973 55' Port McNiel Trawler Custom Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

I don't mind to visit the boat, since it is about half an hour drive from me, but if it is a ' falling apart ' type, it is not worth it.
Opinions?
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:02 PM   #28
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Stainless steel armature ...... ss corrodes in the absence of oxygen !
Couple questions:

a) "if" water stays out of the hull it won't corrode, right?

b) if water did, would the stainless last longer than regular rebar?
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:22 PM   #29
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I think you would need to be a very brave man.
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Old 10-07-2016, 10:44 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by MurrayM View Post
Couple questions:

a) "if" water stays out of the hull it won't corrode, right?

b) if water did, would the stainless last longer than regular rebar?

The big issue is that the re bar expands and the water continues to follow the steel.. which causes the plaster to spall.

They are interesting hulls.. and this one looks like a good example. Insurance is the biggest gamble buying a ferro boat.
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Old 10-07-2016, 10:50 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by utazo89 View Post
It would be nice to know, how this one was built? Does anyone has a source to look up a particular FC boat building history?

1973 55' Port McNiel Trawler Custom Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

I don't mind to visit the boat, since it is about half an hour drive from me, but if it is a ' falling apart ' type, it is not worth it.
Opinions?
a Gardner and a variable pitch prop!.. wow.
Looks like a lot of boat for the buck.
Look into insurance (even just liability only) and if it is available figure that into the deal. The boat is equipped pretty well.. I had much of the same stuff on Volunteer and it was a great boat that was also very sea kindly, quiet, dry and very fuel efficient. I logged 100's of hours @ 7.9 kts @ 2.3 G.P.H... there isn't a boat built today with the comfort,room and economy at any price.

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Old 10-07-2016, 10:52 PM   #32
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I had a marine repair and salvage business. I worked on all boat types except for ferro-cement. I felt the liability was too great for the reasons most of you have been discussing. In my view, a f/c boat is a hollowed out brick.
Rebar has bumps to grip the cement. It was designed for use on stationary objects. I've never even heard of stainless rebar. They do use epoxy coated rebar in bridges, but how well that would hold up on the ocean is open to question. Cement attached to smooth stainless steel will have no grip to resist cracking and other movement.
Stainless steel frame and rebar if available is probably 304, but that corrodes in the absence of air. Most builders of f/c boats are amateurs and probably have no knowledge of the need for 316L or 317 stainless steel.
An old f/c boat at a good price would probably be an ok liveaboard or bay boat.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:01 PM   #33
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It`s old enough for build issues to have well and truly exhibited themselves.
Why is it, as per the advt, to be inspected on the hard? So you can examine the hull from the get go, or because something negative happens if you put it in the water?
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:04 PM   #34
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One would need to have a extremely good sense of humor to purchase any ferro boat.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:13 PM   #35
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I had a marine repair and salvage business. I worked on all boat types except for ferro-cement. I felt the liability was too great for the reasons most of you have been discussing. In my view, a f/c boat is a hollowed out brick.
Rebar has bumps to grip the cement. It was designed for use on stationary objects. I've never even heard of stainless rebar. They do use epoxy coated rebar in bridges, but how well that would hold up on the ocean is open to question. Cement attached to smooth stainless steel will have no grip to resist cracking and other movement.
Stainless steel frame and rebar if available is probably 304, but that corrodes in the absence of air. Most builders of f/c boats are amateurs and probably have no knowledge of the need for 316L or 317 stainless steel.
An old f/c boat at a good price would probably be an ok liveaboard or bay boat.
So what your saying is you don't know squat about ferro boats or about concrete construction. Ferro boats for starters do not actually use rebar but have a armature grid that can be made of many different types of materials. There are plenty of examples still doing a decent job as boats all over the world.. most owners would take the "hollowed out brick" comment rather personally. The "perfect" ferro boat would probably use fiberglass as its armature as corrosion isn't a issue
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:07 AM   #36
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Usually ferro boats will show if they are going to fail after about 10/15 years. This unit looks pretty good but also from the photos would need a bit of fairing. The Gardner engine from the look of it is not a 6LX but a 6L3B a beast of an engine that I would absolutely love to have in a boat especially fitted with a variable pitch prop.
Yes they are hard to get insured but at that price and it would be probably less it would make a great coastal cruising live a board.
Love all the cast bronze fixtures and fittings.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:08 AM   #37
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I think the biggest negative with a ferrocement boat is the perceptions of others, particularly when it comes to resale time. Basically I think you have to consider that the boat may well have no value in the future when you want to sell. So, if the boat is sound AND you can afford to eat the cost of the boat at some future date, then by all means go ferro if you like the boat.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:14 AM   #38
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Tipperary looks like a wonderful craft. Price is right for size, condition and accommodations.

In const industry... Over 40 years I've worked with concrete/cement/polymers/reinforcements and hybrid items utilizing such. If built to highest standards a ferro boat can be A-OK. Seems this [Tipperary] is one.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:26 AM   #39
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Seems like good value, but instrumentation may require some dollars and engine looked at very carefully by an experienced Gardner guy. Know of a Gardner owner in the PNW who had to fly in help from England.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:34 AM   #40
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Gotta love the cast iron radiators on that boat
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