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Old 07-12-2015, 04:47 PM   #21
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John Deere 6-404 engine

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after all the testing we replaced the cap with a propper size 6# cap and after extensive boating the cap seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks one and all for all your idea's. Speced
We have water in the oil. We want to take the engine oil cooler off and check it. I need to locate new gaskets before I start. andy Idea's
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:11 PM   #22
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Don't forget when using "ultra violent" light you should evacuate the marina and contact the Coast Guard, first. Have plenty of fire extinguishers and at least a 6-pack handy. Just sayin'.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:33 PM   #23
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Coolant in the oil (you said you were losing coolant?) is usually a leaky head gasket. Salt water in the oil would be a heat exchanger, unless you did my mod and cool your oil with coolant, then coolant in the oil could be a cooler.

You can tell for sure by pressurizing the system. I don't know if you can rent one, but a small pump attaches to where the radiator cap goes and you pump it to the appropriate pressure and listen for the leaks.

Will you do the repair yourself? The head will be heavy so you will need some muscle to help you, but I don't think a head gasket is that hard. I've done a few on smaller, gasoline engines.

You will need a head gasket, an exhaust gasket, an intake gasket and maybe a valve cover gasket. Buy them somewhere that you can take em back if you don't use them. You will need a manual for torque settings and valve clearances, get a bag of shop towels, a new oil filter, 5 gallon pail of oil and some new coolant. Scrapers to remove old gaskets, buckets to put bolts in (lest the bilge ferrets get you).
Paint for the block (why not? It will be easy when apart) and any new hose clamps and hoses, belts etc that you will find substandard. Feeler gauges for the valves.

Ever had the injectors serviced? Good time for that. You will need new copper washers for those.

Personally, except for the aggravation and the bad timing (summer) it is an exciting and interesting repair that will let you learn way more about your engine. Shouldn't even cost very much (except for the injector service). Make sure you have good knee pads and a good support system with a good source of coffee (or your favourite beverage).

Not knowing anything about John Deeres, you might have to buy new head bolts if they are "stretch" bolts.

Have fun and don't panic, you caught it before too much damage could occur.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #24
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We are going to remove the oil cooler and test it, But need to get gaskets and maybe another engine cooler before taking it apart. Where can I get these parts? thanks Ed
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:23 AM   #25
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Deere dealer?? Tried one of those?

Usually oil cooler leaks oil into coolant as the oil is at higher pressure, but not always.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:05 PM   #26
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Coolant or salt water/raw water?
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:11 PM   #27
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"Coolant or salt water/raw water?"

I expect it is different dependent on what type of engine you have. On my Detroit 6V92s the oil cooler has coolant running through it to cool the oil. Not sure on other types of engines... Ski, is this correct?
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
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"Coolant or salt water/raw water?"

I expect it is different dependent on what type of engine you have. On my Detroit 6V92s the oil cooler has coolant running through it to cool the oil. Not sure on other types of engines... Ski, is this correct?
Good point. It does make a difference. I think Deeres use coolant for oil cooling like DD, Cat and Cummins. But it could be like Yanmar, Volvo and Lehman and use sea water. But still the OP is higher press than the water side, just that it goes out the tailpipe then.

I have seen coolers that leaked on shutdown, but not when oil pressure came up. Apparently it was a tube crack that closed up when shell side pressurized. P-tested both ways: On oil side it passed, pressurized water side and it flunked.

Others passed both ways, but still replaced as passing a ptest is no guarantee that leak does not exist under some conditions.
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Old 06-11-2016, 01:56 PM   #29
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Hello. I'm a newbie to Grand Banks and this website. Anyone tell me where to order a new pressure cap? I have '69 with Ford 120 Lehman, cap is 4lb, looks original, it has a 180 degree thermostat. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2016, 05:27 PM   #30
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any auto parts store will have 4 lbs cap.
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Old 06-12-2016, 02:19 PM   #31
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Another Coolant Leak

Hello all. I just purchased a '69 32 footer with a Ford 120 Lehman. I've got a coolant leak somewhere on the top starboard side. I thought it was the hose going to the coolant tank. I replaced it but still leaking from somewhere up there. Also, looks like the cap is original. 4lbs, no where I can get one?

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Old 06-12-2016, 02:21 PM   #32
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Sorry didn't see the answer posted. Really an auto parts store, Looks a lot bigger than my car one.
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Old 06-12-2016, 02:31 PM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. K. American Diesel American Diesel Corp can supply most, if not all, parts for your 120 Lehman. Really helpful with advice and information as well. Another source is Bomac Marine. Ford Lehman Engines | Parts | Service | Bomac Marine
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:35 PM   #34
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There is a tube inside the FL120 expansion tank which leads to the overflow tube. It can get blocked, preventing overflow and causing pressurizing. It has to be kept clear, if blocked the 4lb cap is the most likely vent alternative.
Also, there is an ADC kit which modifies the filler neck and adds a coolant overflow containment and return bottle. It uses a higher pressure cap, 8lbs I think. There is a Mercruiser kit which does something similar, at less cost.
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