Vacuflush Pressure Switch Question

[Max Simmons]

Doing some maintenance to get ready for the season, our master SR head not flushing as it usually does. Pushing down on the pedal evacuates the bowl, but the pump is not kicking on after pedal is released. I checked the pump and after checking connections (and in the process tapping it lightly) it kicked on and built up pressure. Subsequent testing, it would consistently not kick on after a normal flush, but it would kick on after an extended flush (like double a normal flush) and also when I slightly jiggled the pressure switch. I read the manual and didn't see any maintenance suggestions for this, so wondering if anyone else has experienced this and has a solution? The switch runs around $200 so not the end of the world to replace, but would rather not if it can be avoided. Other than this, I still like the 20 year old Vacuflush system.
Thanks

 

[The Brockerts]

but the pump is not kicking on after pedal is released.
Thanks

On my systems the pump kicks in as soon as you push the pedal down and the vacuum is released as the bowl empties. The pump continues to run even after the pedal is released until enough vacuum is created.

Joe

 

[O C Diver]

If you take the cover off the vacuum switch there is a generic paddle switch. I would test to see if it was the diaphragm / piston assembly or just replacing the paddle switch would solve the problem.

Ted

 

[tiltrider1]

As OC says pull the cover and inspect the paddle switch. This is an inexpensive repair if it is the switch. While the switches rarely fail they do in fact fail on occasion after 20 years.

Now don’t get curious and start messing with the diaphragm. Most people thInk they see a spring tensioner and start cranking more or less tension. What they actually do is just spin the diaphragm causing it to become a source for future leaks.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Interesting. The cover warns not to tamper. The service manual probably says the same. Now I know why.

Now don’t get curious and start messing with the diaphragm. Most people thInk they see a spring tensioner and start cranking more or less tension. What they actually do is just spin the diaphragm causing it to become a source for future leaks.

 

[tiltrider1]

Interesting. The cover warns not to tamper. The service manual probably says the same. Now I know why.

I don’t want to miss lead you. The spring tension is adjustable wh\en the units are new. After 10 years the nut freeze to the shaft and all you end up doing is spinning the diaphragm.

 

[Max Simmons]

So an update on this. I was able to test the pressure switch and it is fine. I pulled the pump as well and bench tested the motor, which was also fine. What I did discover was that the connection at the in-line fuse was not solid and this appears to be the culprit. The pump is wired directly to a block near the battery (by previous owner) and this has always bothered me since it's not handy to shut off the pump unless you pull the fuse. This is the opportunity to install a fused switch so it is easy to shut off when not on the boat. I was thinking of installing the switch in the head which is close instead of in or near the boat's main panel because it's fairly far away unless I'm not thinking clearly, or maybe overthinking?

 

[Comodave]

If the wiring is directly to the battery you need some overcurrent protection at the battery. Either a fuse or circuit breaker. You can then add a switch near the head to turn the pump on and off. But if you move the circuit breaker to the head then the wiring from the battery all the way to the head isn’t protected for overcurrent.

 

[catalinajack]

Doing some maintenance to get ready for the season, our master SR head not flushing as it usually does. Pushing down on the pedal evacuates the bowl, but the pump is not kicking on after pedal is released. I checked the pump and after checking connections (and in the process tapping it lightly) it kicked on and built up pressure. Subsequent testing, it would consistently not kick on after a normal flush, but it would kick on after an extended flush (like double a normal flush) and also when I slightly jiggled the pressure switch. I read the manual and didn't see any maintenance suggestions for this, so wondering if anyone else has experienced this and has a solution? The switch runs around $200 so not the end of the world to replace, but would rather not if it can be avoided. Other than this, I still like the 20 year old Vacuflush system.

Thanks

Bless your heart.

 

[Bmarler]

I find it super handy to have a switch for the vacuum pump right next to the toilet. Makes it so easy to do the cleanings as well as turning the system off when leaving the boat.

 

[Max Simmons]

I find it super handy to have a switch for the vacuum pump right next to the toilet. Makes it so easy to do the cleanings as well as turning the system off when leaving the boat.

Where is your fuse located?

 

[Bmarler]

Where is your fuse located?

i have a circuit breaker for the vacuflush system on the main panel in the pilothouse. i grabbed the hot wire at the vacuum pump and ran it through a switch mounted right next to the toilet.
there's a couple of ways to do this. you can either turn the entire system on and off, or if you have a lighted switch you can grab the power coming off the pressure switch so it will let you know you have vacuum and it's ok to flush.
i did the simple thing and used a lighted switch to let me know i had power turned on. i didn't need an indicator to let me know i was ready to flush as the pump is right next to the toilet and you can hear it running.
if the pump was remotely mounted i probably would route the indicator from the pressure switch.

 

[sunchaser]

What is the purpose of the remote switch? If the VF is working properly a breaker on the the panel should be quite acceptable. If he toilet isn't working properly chase down the issue, just as Max did.

 

[Comodave]

What is the purpose of the remote switch? If the VF is working properly a breaker on the the panel should be quite acceptable. If he toilet isn't working properly chase down the issue, just as Max did.

It can be a lot of work and money tracking down a vacuum leak on A VF head. A switch is an easy fix, sort of, so you don’t have to do that work or spend money on it. Or just get a Marine Elegance head, I just turn mine on and leave it on for years and never have a vacuum leak…

 

[sunchaser]

Commo
If one's VF has a leak or other problem all the off switch does is mask the issue. We're lucky with good access as well as simple plumbing. I'd not have VF if our system were in tight quarters.

We just returned to our vessel after being away for three weeks. There was no bowl seal leakage and vacuum remained normal on the accumulator tank even though the breakers were off.

 

[Bmarler]

i have had vacuflush systems for probably 25 years now, and they are generally very reliable. i wouldn't have put the remote switch in but i needed to put a small switch panel in the head anyway so i included a shutoff for the pump. we found it super convenient for when cleaning the bowl and bowl seal.
the main panel and the head with the vacuflush couldn't really further apart on the boat so it made sense. sometimes when you're troubleshooting an issue it's handy to have a shutoff close to the system as well.
it also made sense to me that if your pump was mounted where you couldn't hear it cycle, an indicator light to let you know it had made vacuum and was ready to flush would be a good idea too.
not masking an issue, just a handy thing to have. typically my bowl and pump will hold vacuum and water in the bowl indefinitely with the power off.

 

[sunchaser]

Marler
It sounds you've got a good setup. My gripe about a remote switch only applies if one turns off the vacuum pump to ignore a problem. BTW Dometic sells a panel which sounds similar to the one you built.

 

[Bmarler]

Marler
It sounds you've got a good setup. My gripe about a remote switch only applies if one turns off the vacuum pump to ignore a problem. BTW Dometic sells a panel which sounds similar to the one you built.

i knew about the little panel dometic sells, but it wasn't right for my application. i have everything i need to make custom panels so making one to fit my space was easy.

 

[Hippocampus]

Have individual breakers for each head at the panel and switches at each head.

Was told if the boat is not in service it’s a good idea to shut the VFs off. Best done at the breakers. Is this true?

Not an issue as there’s a single breaker at the panel that shuts off all non essential DC. Things like bilge pumps are left on.

 

[Bmarler]

Have individual breakers for each head at the panel and switches at each head.

Was told if the boat is not in service it’s a good idea to shut the VFs off. Best done at the breakers. Is this true?

Not an issue as there’s a single breaker at the panel that shuts off all non essential DC. Things like bilge pumps are left on.

Doesn’t really matter where you turn them off when leaving the boat. I’d stick with tripping the main breaker as it’s easier.

 

[AlanT]

I have 3 original VF heads on my 1995 boat. Each is wired with a pull/push switch next to the head to activate the pump. Since only one head is in frequent use, it was easy to permanently leave 2 'off' and 1 'on'.

Last year returning to the boat a neighbor informed me he had heard my pump cycling. Investigating I found a ruptured membrane and a locker flooded with you-know-what.

After servicing all 3 pumps and associated fittings I now turn them all off when leaving the boat for more than a few days.
~A

 

[tiltrider1]

I turn off my toilets and FW pump if I am leaving the boat for an extended period. I have had more FW failures than VF failures while away from the boat.

 

[Comodave]

Some have said that they have vacuum leaks so they turn it off when not using the head so they don’t hear it all night. That is where a switch by the head would come in handy so you don’t have to go to the main panel to turn it on and off.