Doing the Baja Bash

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ksanders

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
USA
Vessel Name
DOS PECES
Vessel Make
BAYLINER 4788
We are doing the fabled Baja Bash!

But... I have done a ton of research, and read everything I could on the subject.

Our technique is to not be in a hurry. Wait for good weather and make a move.
This is exploration.

Yesterday we left San Jose Del Cabo on the tail of a tropical depression. The swell last night was from the south and the wind was basically calm.

We enter Magdalena Bay in an hour where we will rest, relax, do some clamming, and hopefully buy some lobsters.

https://maps.findmespot.com/s/218P#history/assets
 

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Thanks for the update Kevin - continued fair winds.

Peter
 
Ppp

Nicely done! Hope your diligent planning continues to pay off :thumb: .
 
Yesterday we stopped in Mag Bay at the little town in Man O War Cove. The thought was to spend a couple of days clamming and then continue on.

We found the town nearly abandoned. There were a few guys in what is normally the resturant and they told the story.

There was a huge excess of baby crustations similar to a crawfish, that many call langosta.

These robbed the waters of nutrients and maybe oxygen killing millions of fish, along with the local clams. Almost everybody left, and those few remaining are living off of dried manta ray.

We helped out a bit and moved on. There were dead sardines everywhere, along with a bit of an aroma.

So... we are anchor'd in Santa Maria and will leave tonight after the daily wind dies down.
 

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Going for Bay of Ascension?

Safe travels!

Yep, thats the plan for today. We started out at 0200 to avoid the strongest wind hours.

There are what looks like a few days of windier weather coming up.

Asencion is a "wind hole" but I will prefer turtle bay
 
Yesterday we stopped in Mag Bay at the little town in Man O War Cove. The thought was to spend a couple of days clamming and then continue on.

We found the town nearly abandoned. There were a few guys in what is normally the resturant and they told the story.

There was a huge excess of baby crustations similar to a crawfish, that many call langosta.

These robbed the waters of nutrients and maybe oxygen killing millions of fish, along with the local clams. Almost everybody left, and those few remaining are living off of dried manta ray.

Uhhh, no. Langosta by any name is a California Spiny Lobster. These are harvested (both sport and commercial) under rigid control north of the California border by the Department of Fish and Game. Unfortunately, they are harvested indiscriminately in Mexico, particularly along the Pacific coast. And the harvesters pay absolutely NO attention to sex, breeding season, or size. After raping and pillaging an area, often for years, and selling to restaurants up and down the peninsula, the fishermen simply move on when the catch inevitably craters and it becomes unsustainable. Whether or not mother nature catches up with a sustainable supply is anybody's guess.

"...robbed the water of nutrients..." Sorry have to throw the BS flag here. Those itsy-bitsy "langosta" have NOT spawned themselves to death. Good old man-made greed is leading that parade.

Regards,

Pete
 
....
After raping and pillaging an area, often for years, and selling to restaurants up and down the peninsula, the fishermen simply move on when the catch inevitably craters

What restaurants? And where do these fishermen move on to? Pretty desolate out there. Curious where I should be looking. Frankly, I've just never seen them on the menu. Okay, maybe occasionally at ridiculously high prices - similar prices to abalone

Pray tell....where should I be going?

Peter
 
Uhhh, no. Langosta by any name is a California Spiny Lobster. These are harvested (both sport and commercial) under rigid control north of the California border by the Department of Fish and Game. Unfortunately, they are harvested indiscriminately in Mexico, particularly along the Pacific coast. And the harvesters pay absolutely NO attention to sex, breeding season, or size. After raping and pillaging an area, often for years, and selling to restaurants up and down the peninsula, the fishermen simply move on when the catch inevitably craters and it becomes unsustainable. Whether or not mother nature catches up with a sustainable supply is anybody's guess.

"...robbed the water of nutrients..." Sorry have to throw the BS flag here. Those itsy-bitsy "langosta" have NOT spawned themselves to death. Good old man-made greed is leading that parade.

Regards,

Pete

OK, Remember I live here in Mexico.

I do not get the names correct but the bloom was what people in english call "squat lobsters" Here they are not big enough to eat.

2nd These fishermen do not move on. They have been living in these little villages forever. Many generations. Yes the technology has changed. Yes Mexico has learned to manage it's fisheries just like the rest of the world. I do not need to point out the ruin of fisheries around the world do i?

The actual lobsters are a seasonal catch. We found out the season starts in September. In other times of the year these same fishermen go out every day and try to catch a few fish to feed their families, and sell the remainder to the local cooperative.

My opinion, these fishermen are fantastic people. They work hard, care for their families, and just try to survive in a very difficult enviroment.
 
What restaurants? And where do these fishermen move on to? Pretty desolate out there. Curious where I should be looking. Frankly, I've just never seen them on the menu. Okay, maybe occasionally at ridiculously high prices - similar prices to abalone

Pray tell....where should I be going?

Peter

Never seen lobster on a Mexican menu? How 'bout in Puerto Nuevo? Ensenada? El Rosario? Guerrero Negro? La Paz? Cabo? Anywhere else on the peninsula served by truck? Not sure what you're saying here. Yes, prices can be high. Particularly for a mature, conscientiously and ethically harvested Spiny Lobster. "Shorts" can be had for far less money, at the expense of the lobster population itself.

The point I'm trying to make to ksanders is there's more to the story of the decline in the lobster population (and the viability of life in Mag Bay) than a simple tale of an excess of "baby crustaceans". And most of that tale revolves around the very people that attempt to exist on that resource. Overfishing of lobster (and many other species as well) is a real issue throughout the Peninsula, as is industrial and agricultural runoff, and many of the other ills of modern man.

As far as "moving on"-surely you've seen the many, many seasonal fish camps up and down the Baja peninsula? Yup, pretty desolate, particularly by gringo standards. But a lifestyle for many. Again, not sure of your point here.

Regards,

Pete
 
OK, Remember I live here in Mexico.

I do not get the names correct but the bloom was what people in english call "squat lobsters" Here they are not big enough to eat.

2nd These fishermen do not move on. They have been living in these little villages forever. Many generations. Yes the technology has changed. Yes Mexico has learned to manage it's fisheries just like the rest of the world. I do not need to point out the ruin of fisheries around the world do i?

The actual lobsters are a seasonal catch. We found out the season starts in September. In other times of the year these same fishermen go out every day and try to catch a few fish to feed their families, and sell the remainder to the local cooperative.

My opinion, these fishermen are fantastic people. They work hard, care for their families, and just try to survive in a very difficult enviroment.

Not sure of the relevance of where you live. My family and I have traded with the inhabitants of the Baja California peninsula, starting with lumber deliveries to Loretto and Santa Rosalia in 1906. While I don't live in Mexico, I have personally poked my boat, my truck, and my feet into many, many, many of the bays and villages up and down the peninsula, both in, on, and under the water for decades, and my family for generations.

I also share your opinion of many of the fishermen, as they are absolutely fantastic people. HOWEVER, and it's a big HOWEVER, this is not a tale of poor fishermen trying to sustain themselves by "catching a few fish to feed their families". Those self-same fishing cooperatives vacuum up anything that will sell, sustainability be damned. And, given the paucity of alternatives to earning a living on the Peninsula, feeding the co-ops by local fishermen goes well beyond "just a few" excess lobsters.

If you're interested, look into the illegal harvest of Totoaba. Then tell me how well Mexico has managed it's fisheries.

Regards,

Pete
 
Baja bash

Kevin,

Back to your trip progress.

How is weather in Santa Maria Bay ?

How is the trip going so far today ?

Did you make it to Turtle Bay, or did you go to Bay of Ascension ?

How is weather there ? Accommodations ?

How are seas & what kind of speed did you average.

Thanks,

Alfa Mike
 
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Not sure of the relevance of where you live. My family and I have traded with the inhabitants of the Baja California peninsula, starting with lumber deliveries to Loretto and Santa Rosalia in 1906. While I don't live in Mexico, I have personally poked my boat, my truck, and my feet into many, many, many of the bays and villages up and down the peninsula, both in, on, and under the water for decades, and my family for generations.



I also share your opinion of many of the fishermen, as they are absolutely fantastic people. HOWEVER, and it's a big HOWEVER, this is not a tale of poor fishermen trying to sustain themselves by "catching a few fish to feed their families". Those self-same fishing cooperatives vacuum up anything that will sell, sustainability be damned. And, given the paucity of alternatives to earning a living on the Peninsula, feeding the co-ops by local fishermen goes well beyond "just a few" excess lobsters.



If you're interested, look into the illegal harvest of Totoaba. Then tell me how well Mexico has managed it's fisheries.



Regards,



Pete
I know of one restaurant in Ensenada, a city of 500k and known throughout Mexico for its seafood, that might have lobster on the menu. A walk through the large fish market where all restaurants buy from the fish mongers will show zero lobsters. It's been a while since I've been to Guerrero Negro, but given it's location in the center of the peninsula, guessing it remains an agricultural and commercial center. I wouldn't be surprised if Cabo has lobster, but my hunch is they are from Maine or Vietnam.

I think you've confused the various fisheries. There are more or less three tiers in Mexico. Subsistence fishermen in pangas. Larger vessels or groups of vessels. And large corporate fleets - the tuna business, driven by Asian demand, is extremely active with tuna "farmed" in fish pens to await spikes in market price and demand. Lobster are only viable from smaller boats.

I've been traveling to Baja for almost 35 years. I like Mexico. I am writing this from Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan Penninsula where just yesterday, I ventured into a large town in the jungle known for smoked meats and handmade furniture. I like to explore and see how people live and much of that is what they eat. While not my personal favorite, a popular bar snack in Yucatan is fried grasshoppers.

In my opinion, there remains urban legend about driving to some point and flashing your lights to an anchored fishing boat who will bring you enormous shrimp for pennies a pound. While I have horse traded for shrimp and fish in a similar manner, the price was close to market, no great bargain. I think these stories get told and retold but few have the guts to say "I tried, but never found the cheap shrimp." An adult version of a "snipe hunt" for those who were boy scouts and needled the new kid.

The best way I can describe Mexico is its two generations behind the US. If you long for the days before Big Box Stores took hold, you'll love Mexico. But the changes are coming. Large grocery stores began to emerge 30+ years ago and are now ubiquitous. Home Depot is expanding and will someday displace the tienda del tornillos (screw store).

But what Mexico is not is lawless or backwater. Over the last 20 years, they have developed a surprisingly strong sense of environmentalism and sustainability, albeit subject to graft and corruption.

Jungpeter, this is a very long and winding way to say that I just cannot 'square' your characterization of Mexico. Not saying there isn't some basis for it, but in the main, it's just not anywhere close to what my experience has been. Since 2014 when I bought property in Mexico, I'd guess close to half my time has been somewhere in Mexico.

In general (not specifically to Jungpeter), I find there Americans are broadly divided into two groups of opinion on Mexico. Those who have visited outside of the all-inclusive resorts and like Mexico a great deal due to its favorable economic exchange, great food, varied culture, and hospitable people. The second group fear traveling to Mexico for a variety of reasons though they might make an exception and visit an all-inclusive resort. Despite having never really visited Mexico, this latter group includes a very vocal subgroup who speak loudly about their fears of crime, drugs, food poisoning, police shakedown, being ripped off, etc. Fortunately, these ill-informed people are content to complain from afar and do not visit. But their hyperbole is legendary. It's too bad - Mexico has its problems, but there is so much going for it. It's an incredibly interesting country on many different levels. It is a deeply proud country that cares about their people and their resources. Politics and corruption is a constant battle, but they still manage to get a lot right.

Peter
 
Kevin,

Back to your trip progress.

How is weather in Santa Maria Bay ?

How is the trip going so far today ?

Did you make it to Turtle Bay, or did you go to Bay of Ascension ?

How is weather there ? Accommodations ?

How are seas & what kind of speed did you average.

Thanks,

Alfa Mike

Thanks Mike!!! back on track

We left Santa Maria for San Juanico. This was the most difficult day we have had. The reason is the seas were mostly abeam all day. Uncomfortable.

A better choice would have been to do an overnighter to Asuncion. That's how I'll be doing it on the return south in October.

San Juanico and Asuncion were pretty much impossible beach landings for a skiff. The surf is breaking and is just not something I was willing to do.

We left Asuncion at 0530 this morning. This will put us in Trutle Bay by noon.

Northerly vs southerly last fall the big takeaway is to travel early in the day. Having 20 kn of tailing wind is one thing. Put that on your face and it's another entirely. Since the wind comes up early afternoon, it's essential for comfort to be anchor'd by 2:00 pm.


https://maps.findmespot.com/s/218P#history/assets
 
I know of one restaurant in Ensenada, a city of 500k and known throughout Mexico for its seafood, that might have lobster on the menu. A walk through the large fish market where all restaurants buy from the fish mongers will show zero lobsters. It's been a while since I've been to Guerrero Negro, but given it's location in the center of the peninsula, guessing it remains an agricultural and commercial center. I wouldn't be surprised if Cabo has lobster, but my hunch is they are from Maine or Vietnam.

I think you've confused the various fisheries. There are more or less three tiers in Mexico. Subsistence fishermen in pangas. Larger vessels or groups of vessels. And large corporate fleets - the tuna business, driven by Asian demand, is extremely active with tuna "farmed" in fish pens to await spikes in market price and demand. Lobster are only viable from smaller boats.

I've been traveling to Baja for almost 35 years. I like Mexico. I am writing this from Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan Penninsula where just yesterday, I ventured into a large town in the jungle known for smoked meats and handmade furniture. I like to explore and see how people live and much of that is what they eat. While not my personal favorite, a popular bar snack in Yucatan is fried grasshoppers.

In my opinion, there remains urban legend about driving to some point and flashing your lights to an anchored fishing boat who will bring you enormous shrimp for pennies a pound. While I have horse traded for shrimp and fish in a similar manner, the price was close to market, no great bargain. I think these stories get told and retold but few have the guts to say "I tried, but never found the cheap shrimp." An adult version of a "snipe hunt" for those who were boy scouts and needled the new kid.

The best way I can describe Mexico is its two generations behind the US. If you long for the days before Big Box Stores took hold, you'll love Mexico. But the changes are coming. Large grocery stores began to emerge 30+ years ago and are now ubiquitous. Home Depot is expanding and will someday displace the tienda del tornillos (screw store).

But what Mexico is not is lawless or backwater. Over the last 20 years, they have developed a surprisingly strong sense of environmentalism and sustainability, albeit subject to graft and corruption.

Jungpeter, this is a very long and winding way to say that I just cannot 'square' your characterization of Mexico. Not saying there isn't some basis for it, but in the main, it's just not anywhere close to what my experience has been. Since 2014 when I bought property in Mexico, I'd guess close to half my time has been somewhere in Mexico.

In general (not specifically to Jungpeter), I find there Americans are broadly divided into two groups of opinion on Mexico. Those who have visited outside of the all-inclusive resorts and like Mexico a great deal due to its favorable economic exchange, great food, varied culture, and hospitable people. The second group fear traveling to Mexico for a variety of reasons though they might make an exception and visit an all-inclusive resort. Despite having never really visited Mexico, this latter group includes a very vocal subgroup who speak loudly about their fears of crime, drugs, food poisoning, police shakedown, being ripped off, etc. Fortunately, these ill-informed people are content to complain from afar and do not visit. But their hyperbole is legendary. It's too bad - Mexico has its problems, but there is so much going for it. It's an incredibly interesting country on many different levels. It is a deeply proud country that cares about their people and their resources. Politics and corruption is a constant battle, but they still manage to get a lot right.

Peter

What a great post!!! This sums up my thoughts perfectly.
 
Thanks Mike!!! back on track

To ksanders, et al-

My apologies for initiating thread creep, veering into the abyss of "Mexican geopolitics" as related to fisheries practices.

Mea Culpa. I'll say no more.

Regards,

Pete
 
Hey, you're making great progress.

There's a bbq Pollo place in B Tortuga, open Saturday around noon if your still there. Es muy bueno!

Saludos, Al
 
Hey, you're making great progress.

There's a bbq Pollo place in B Tortuga, open Saturday around noon if your still there. Es muy bueno!

Saludos, Al

Yes!!! I think I have bought chicken there. Right across the street from one of the small grocery stores???
 
Yes!!! I think I have bought chicken there. Right across the street from one of the small grocery stores???

Yes, indeed.

I mean "See!"

Their casa is across the street as I recall. That's where I went for tortillas & frijoles sides.
 
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Yes, indeed.

I mean "See!"

Their casa is across the street as I recall. That's where I went for tortillas & frijoles sides.

they are open on Saturdays and Sundays and we will be going there

:)
 
Today we made Bahia Tortugas, Turtle bay.

This is an essential cruiser stop bothy north and southbound.

This is the only really reliable diesel between ensenada and cabo.
Yes I have heard that you might be able to get diesel at cedros and at Asencion but Enrikies family is there every day with a very professional fuel panga delivering diesel to cruisers. And... Yes they accept credit cards.

They also offer several small grocery stores, and a real gas station if you are willing to haul your own fuel.
 

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Bravo Zulu Kevin...My wife and I have made that trip a number of times. Always stop for rest Santa Maria, San Juanico and TB. Enrique's wingmen Jesus and Adrian bring the fuel out in their panga. We usually get one of the boys to give us a ride into the pier. We walk up the main street to a small restaurant on the left about a half mile up called "Restaurant Tortugas" which is owned by a delightful lady named Alicia. She cooks everything in her own kitchen and it was also a good place for wifi before the Starlink era. Anyway, great job of watching weather. We always have the rule of no deadlines. Last trip we sat in TB for 4 days and got a good window for the 270 nm run up to Ensenada. We will be heading back down again next season.
 
Thanks Ross!

We left Turtle Bay a little late this morning, to let the wind abate a bit more.
We will stop at Cedros just outside the harbor and then leave tonight in the middle of the night for ensenada.

Right now we have zero wind and about 1-1.5' swells at about 275
 
Great weather Kevin! That is an anomaly for the weather from north end of Cedros across the 90 miles of the Bay of Viscaino. That is usually pretty sporty until you get up to Geronimo and up to Colenette. You hit the jackpot on that stretch. Timing is everything. Safe travels.
 
Kevin I just looked at Seaweather which is a site put out by Weather Routing Inc. and it looks like you hit a home run with weather across Bay of Viscaino all the way up. In my experience that doesn't happen that often. Wish you safe travels on into the barn.
 
Yes, I feel very fortunate!

I'm about 10 nm from the anchorage at Cedros harbor. I'll hang out there untill tonight and then head out between 12 and 2.
 
Good plan Kevin. Heading back to Coral? If so, staying there until next October? If so, might see you there. Bien Viaje! Ross and Juli Macdonald MV Boppy's Star
 

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