fridge "dripping tray" frozen

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paulga

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May 28, 2018
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United States
Vessel Name
DD
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Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
I spotted water puddle at the bottom inside of the fridge, leaking through door seal onto the floor. Then I followed this video to take the dripping assembly out. instead of gunk plugging the drain hole, I found the water inside the "dripping tray" is frozen, it is the ice that was blocking the drain hole.

Has this ever happened to your fridge? How to prevent the tray from freeze?

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You need to periodically defrost the refer to melt the ice. Boat refers typically don’t do self defrost.
 
You need to periodically defrost the refer to melt the ice. Boat refers typically don’t do self defrost.
This fridge is a residential one that uses ac 110v power, not a boat fridge
 
You may want to check the condenser coil for dirt / debris blockage. Poor airflow may cause the ice issue.
 
You may want to check the condenser coil for dirt / debris blockage. Poor airflow may cause the ice issue.
The fridge is inside a compartment with little clearance. Any easy way to slide it out and back?
 
You may want to evaluate if you have enough airflow around your fridge once you pull it out for cleaning.
If the clearance is very little, is there any remediation except for changing to a smaller fridge?
 
How cold is the inside of the fridge? I turned down the temperature on our household fridge and had a similar issue.
 
Any refer will want airflow around it. Cut some new vent holes both high and low to promote air circulation. I have even added a small 12 volt low current fan to help the air flow.
 
OP, you said this was not a boat/RV fridge but residential 110V. If that is the case how is it fastened? It should pull right out and not be tight against side walls unless the PO made securing modifications. I know my fridge(s) in original installed locations all had a vent grill at the back for ventilation.

As others have said, most likely needs a good cleaning on the backside, pull it out and get er done.
 
How cold is the inside of the fridge? I turned down the temperature on our household fridge and had a similar issue.
I set both the freezer and the fresh compartment to somewhere between middle and max. Do you mean lowering the freezer temp would relieve the issue?
 
I set both the freezer and the fresh compartment to somewhere between middle and max. Do you mean lowering the freezer temp would relieve the issue?
I meant raising the temperature. The area by the condensate is too cold either because the freezer/refrigerator is turned very low or as others have mentioned, lack of ventilation/air circulation. What had changed just before you found the water?
 
Check the door seals and that the unitis defrosing. Typically refrigerators have low humidity inside as the moisture coalesces on the evaporator coil. Then when it goes through the defrost cycle, the frost melts and drains through the tube. If the door isn't sealing, there is air exchange with more humid air entering the refrigerator. Also, the unit will run longer and not completely defrost.

Second, there is a time clock in the refrigerator to trigger the defrost cycle. On my Summit refrigerator, after the compressor had run 8 hours (I think), it would defrost for 20 minutes. If the time clock motor fails, it may not be going into the defrost cycle. Time clock failures occur often enough that you can buy a replacement clock relatively easily. You will need to find the clock and get the part number off of it. Been there, done that.

Ted
 
I meant raising the temperature. The area by the condensate is too cold either because the freezer/refrigerator is turned very low or as others have mentioned, lack of ventilation/air circulation. What had changed just before you found the water?
I just lowered the freezer settings (toward higher temp). now the dial points to the middle. will keep monitoring
 
Check the door seals and that the unitis defrosing. Typically refrigerators have low humidity inside as the moisture coalesces on the evaporator coil. Then when it goes through the defrost cycle, the frost melts and drains through the tube. If the door isn't sealing, there is air exchange with more humid air entering the refrigerator. Also, the unit will run longer and not completely defrost.

Second, there is a time clock in the refrigerator to trigger the defrost cycle. On my Summit refrigerator, after the compressor had run 8 hours (I think), it would defrost for 20 minutes. If the time clock motor fails, it may not be going into the defrost cycle. Time clock failures occur often enough that you can buy a replacement clock relatively easily. You will need to find the clock and get the part number off of it. Been there, done that.

Ted
I sat close to the fridge for a couple of house. it was being humming for some period then enter a quiet phase. i guess the humming was when the compressor was running, then the fridge becomes quiet when it enters the defrosting phase, the defrost phase is much longer than 20 minutes. i think the time clock is still working.
 
I sat close to the fridge for a couple of house. it was being humming for some period then enter a quiet phase. i guess the humming was when the compressor was running, then the fridge becomes quiet when it enters the defrosting phase, the defrost phase is much longer than 20 minutes. i think the time clock is still working.
When mine enters the defrost phase, you can hear a very slight clicking. My guess is that that noise is the time clock running the defrost cycle. When it switches out of the defrost phase, the compressor starts and the compressor noise is louder than the time clock. On my refrigerator, the time clock only runs when the thermostat is engaged and is either running the compressor or the defrost cycle. An absence of the compressor running doesn't indicate the defrost cycle is running. On my refrigerator, the defrost cycle only runs every 3 to 5 days as its based on compressor run time.

Ted
 
When mine enters the defrost phase, you can hear a very slight clicking. My guess is that that noise is the time clock running the defrost cycle. When it switches out of the defrost phase, the compressor starts and the compressor noise is louder than the time clock. On my refrigerator, the time clock only runs when the thermostat is engaged and is either running the compressor or the defrost cycle. An absence of the compressor running doesn't indicate the defrost cycle is running. On my refrigerator, the defrost cycle only runs every 3 to 5 days as its based on compressor run time.

Ted
after a long quiet phase, there would be a ticking sound followed by a noisy humming phrase, I always think this is the compressor running. The fridge was just humming for 15 minutes, and has became quiet again.

the time clock on this whirlpool model is behind a panel at the back.
 
OP, you said this was not a boat/RV fridge but residential 110V. If that is the case how is it fastened? It should pull right out and not be tight against side walls unless the PO made securing modifications. I know my fridge(s) in original installed locations all had a vent grill at the back for ventilation.

As others have said, most likely needs a good cleaning on the backside, pull it out and get er done.
just noted it's secured by two screws at the front

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There you go, unscrew and roll it out. It looks to still be on its wheels.
I wish it has wheels instead of rubber foots. but i don't remember having seen a fridge that has caster wheels.
 
I wish it has wheels instead of rubber foots. but i don't remember having seen a fridge that has caster wheels.
You tell me it is a residential fridge without wheels, hmmm I guess they made a mistake on all the residential fridges I have owned.
You sure do drag out a simple process. Undo the screws and pull out the fridge.
 
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