Wiper Arm Removal

[Spike]

While changing the blades on my wiper's I managed to break one of the pantograph arms. Decided it would be best to replace all 3 wiper arms. I was able to remove the nuts after a few doses of PB Blaster but the fitting on the main arms remain firmly in place on all 3.

I was able to fit a tapered pry bar between the large nut and bottom of the arm (see picture) and tap it in with a hammer but no joy. I've considered removing the 2 Phillip's head screws to remove the whole thing but am afraid that would result in the motor separating on the inside which would require some major cabinet removal. It's not really in a good place to apply heat, pretty tight clearance. I'm considering a dremmel tool to cut through the fitting but it looks pretty thick, maybe 1/2". Thought I'd check here before going forward incase anyone has had a similar issue and found a way. Thanks in advance.

 

[ksanders]

I've had to use a dremel cut off blade to make slits in the wiper arm and then use a screwdriver to pry the wiper arm apart.

 

[Comodave]

The shaft may be splined and looks like it is firmly corroded in place. If you can’t do heat with a gun, maybe a big soldering iron laid again it??? I would PB the heck out of it first followed by some tapping on it to create vibrations to help work the PB into the fitting. Let it sit a couple of days and repeat the PB and tapping multiple times.

 

[Comodave]

I've had to use a dremel cut off blade to make slits in the wiper arm and then use a screwdriver to pry the wiper arm apart.

That is a good idea too it you can get the bit up in there. I have a flexible extension for my Dremel. Something like that may let you get up in there.

 

[Bmarler]

maybe something like this can do it? no relation to seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2307343356...faLcOZ8bM3OnTTHO0d5a-L7KZGoDH2dIaAu72EALw_wcB

 

[C lectric]

Take a very close look at the shaft where the wiper arm attaches. You may have a clip that hooks over the drive spline to hold the arm into place.
THat clip needs to be held back with a screwdriver. Then maybe the whole arm will release. It will still take some discussion as the spline engagement may have corroded.

Use some penetrating oil also.

A Dremel on the top could be used to produce a hole over the spline adapter and then a small puller to pull the arm off. If you go that route then spraying is even easier.

When you reassemble coat the spline adapter and the inside of the arm spline with a
silicone grease, auto grease, or some kind of lubricant. That will prevent the corrosion from seizing the internal and external splines.

I am in the process, one more to do, of changing my arms to Ongaro made units.

They use a small screw to secure the arm spline onto the motor spline by clamping. When loosened the arm is easily removed. I still grease it though.

 

[KnotYet]

A small gear puller may do the job once the penetrant has soaked in.

 

[DWJensen]

I just dealt with a similar issue on my HE36 - All three wiper arms were firmly corroded to the shafts. They're normally held in place with small splines and a set screw on each, but mine weren't budging even after a couple of days of PB. I have a bit better access I think and was able to use my mini butane torch to pinpoint heat on the fitting. Heated them up and gave a light tap with a hammer and they popped right off.

Here's the torch I use (works great with the hot air fitting for heat shrink tubing and connectors as well): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-ST2200T-Butane-Micro-Torch-330194/100564678

 

[tiltrider1]

First I would see if you can find wiper arms of that style. I have my doubts that such arms are available. I think you are opening a big can worms.

 

[Spike]

Thanks for all the ideas. As of now I'm in the PB/tap-tap/wiggle mode. I'll give this a few days before resorting to destruction. The wiper arm puller would be perfect if there was clearance but it's only about 1/2". The butane torch is a great idea and may work in that area if I add some protection since it's a very direct flame. This is exactly why I came here for advice! I've looked again and can't see anything else that could be securing the arm.

I've already purchased the replacement arms so there is no issue there. Marine Connection Liquidators in Ft. Pierce FL is an amazing place if you ever get the chance!

 

[KnotYet]

When those new arms go on I would use plenty of anti-seize, too.

 

[DCDC]

I recently removed our pantograph arms. Tried PB Blaster, hammer with wooden wedge and a torch, but no luck. Purchased the below tool which worked well. Short enough to just fit under overhang clearance. Pricey but professional grade. Less expensive versions available but they looked flimsy.

 

[Spike]

Thanks, that just may fit. Nothing else has worked so far. Do you recall where you got the puller?

 

[DCDC]

Thanks, that just may fit. Nothing else has worked so far. Do you recall where you got the puller?

Amazon has variety of designs and prices. Search for ‘wiper puller’. The one I used needed ~3 1/2” clearance from bottom edge of wiper, but could be reduced by an inch with a shorter bolt. Looks like 14mm/1.5mm pitch.

 

[Lollygag1]

Auto zone has the puller for $10. Take a careful look there may also be a small Allen screw located in the wiper arm. Mine was covered w crud and hard to see.

Also when putting the new arms on make sure you have the angle right or you get to pry them off and do again.

 

[sunchaser]

On some pantograph setups pull the arms up and away from the windshield which releases tension on the built in clamping device.

 

[NWSeadog]

A small gear puller may do the job once the penetrant has soaked in.

 

[bvaldyke]

Endorse what tiltrider1 said - don't go forward until you have a solution that's tried and proven. I'd fix one, and then decide if the other two can be improved by pulling them.

 

[mickand]

I cut into each side with a Dremel and cutting wheel, then tapped in a screwdriver lightly - came straight off

 

[Newtrawlerowner]

First I would see if you can find wiper arms of that style. I have my doubts that such arms are available. I think you are opening a big can worms.

I was able to purchase replacement arms for my Mainship 400 from Amazon. My research suggests most boat manufacturers uses 1 of 2 different types, AFI or MRV.
As far as removal some lubricant, a little heat and a pry bar with a wood block against the fiberglass and mine popped right off. Don't forget the set screw as mentioned as well but yours may not have it if a nut is used to secure the arm.

 

[Barking Sands]

Definitely need a "wiper arm puller". Its amazing how stuck they can become. As you said though they didnt give you much room. You might just buy a cheap one and modify it for clearance. Even if you can get a puller on it, get some decent pressure on it, then add heat maintain the pressure with the puller, then tap with hammer.

I have absolutely mangled some without a puller.

 

[Spike]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I've ordered the puller recommended and will give that a try when we go back to the boat next week. I'm not holding out much hope that the bolt will have enough clearance. If I can't find a shorter bolt I'm thinking about putting the puller in place and using shims or wedges to drive it up from underneath (make it a pusher?). Hopefully a combination of heat, pressure and a tap-tap with a hammer will break them loose.

I'll report back.

 

[Bmarler]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I've ordered the puller recommended and will give that a try when we go back to the boat next week. I'm not holding out much hope that the bolt will have enough clearance. If I can't find a shorter bolt I'm thinking about putting the puller in place and using shims or wedges to drive it up from underneath (make it a pusher?). Hopefully a combination of heat, pressure and a tap-tap with a hammer will break them loose.

I'll report back.

did you look at the puller i linked in post 5? it goes in from the side and you squeeze the handle. i don't have one, so i can't comment on how strong it is, but it doesn't need the clearance that the others do.

 

[Turtle Blues]

The pliers type will not exert enough force if the hub is frozen. I crushed one - admit it's my fault for over squeezing - the threaded puller is the way to go if you can fit it into the space.

 

[Spike]

I did look at the plier type from post #5 but didn't think it would put enough force on the arm based on what I have tried already. I imagine they would break before the fitting did? Might give it a go if the puller I ordered doesn't work. The price is cheap enough that I wouldn't cry if they break....

I'm really trying to avoid the cutoff wheel although I don't know why. The old arms are really not worth saving.

 

[Bmarler]

I did look at the plier type from post #5 but didn't think it would put enough force on the arm based on what I have tried already. I imagine they would break before the fitting did? Might give it a go if the puller I ordered doesn't work. The price is cheap enough that I wouldn't cry if they break....

I'm really trying to avoid the cutoff wheel although I don't know why. The old arms are really not worth saving.

got it. i'd avoid the cutoff wheel too. too much opportunity to send little rust bits all over. the trim clip pliers like this: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200677474_200677474
are probably similar to the one i linked earlier. i have a similar plier for automotive work and it has a fair amount of push, but not like a threaded puller would have.
maybe a pickle fork? https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-r...smXEjI5K7b6k_jFwkHuBXUUnmKn2n4ugaAhhQEALw_wcB
anyway, good luck!

 

[Comodave]

I use a shop vac anytime while cutting something like that to suck up the tiny bits of metal that can eventually rust. Also lay out rags around the area to help contain the metal pieces.

 

[ORIF]

I just dealt with a similar issue on my HE36 - All three wiper arms were firmly corroded to the shafts. They're normally held in place with small splines and a set screw on each, but mine weren't budging even after a couple of days of PB. I have a bit better access I think and was able to use my mini butane torch to pinpoint heat on the fitting. Heated them up and gave a light tap with a hammer and they popped right off.

Here's the torch I use (works great with the hot air fitting for heat shrink tubing and connectors as well): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-ST2200T-Butane-Micro-Torch-330194/100564678

That torch you referenced is one of my favorite tools.
I had one in the garage and found myself going out there so much I got another for inside the house.
Could use a 3rd

Spike, I see your clearance issue. That tool Bmarler referenced in post #5 might work but I can't see enough about it to understand how it works. If it's some type of "squeeze and splay" mechanism it might work.

focused heat from he referenced torch would work in your tight space if its not a long akward reach

 

[ScottRhodes13]

I had a similar problem on my boat. I used an appropriately sized open end wrench to fill the space between the large nut that secures the shaft and the arm, and then with another wrench, unscrewed the nut. That forced off the arm.

 

[Comodave]

I have a new pantograph wiper arm coming today so I will get to try removing the old arm. My arm looks different from those in the photos so I will see how tough it is to get it off.