WINTERIZING: is there a best order when running RV fluid through FRESH water lines?

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The Sharkbite valves are a bit more, but it was fast and easy.
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Interesting. I really don't know what fittings they used. here's a close up of one of the fittings from a different angle. I would have had them need to rework so much more if I wanted them to square up the hot and cold connection points, as they come from the centerline of the boat to the right of the heater. and there is barely room to even get in to access the front of the heater when attaching a hose to the hot water heater to drain for winter.
 

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our original fittings appear to be shark bites, and during our first year of ownership hade one start to leak, where it was attached to the hot water heater. I called via phone a friend who has a little experience with Pex and I was able to bring outward (pulling) pressure on the fitting by using some line that acted as a spacer, which fixed the problem, but needed occasional check and adjustment. Which leaves me mistrusting all the fittings. and since it's outside my experience and tool kit, leaves me with continuing concerns. I know I'm just too old and inflexible. LOL

Near as I remember, the only things they need is the tubing cut squarely... and inserted all the way in.

Hard to say what you experienced. Too bad, though; they're generally pretty easy to sort out.

-Chris
 
Oh, I know they are unreasonable, but am pretty stuck. they do not allow ANY work on the boat in the "storage yard". and I live 6.5 hours away, and getting an outside service person requires weeks if not months in advance and would have to pay to have the boat put in the water and drive it to a nearby regular marina, pay 75 a day to stay there to get someone out, then put the boat back in storage for the haul out fee. it's a between a rock and a hard place situation. After a full electronics package, my radio which was always fine, stopped working. the same tech guy came out and quoted "no more than 3 hours" labor. got a bill of 3k including 10 hours labor. I went to the CEO and they said it just took longer than expected. any time you use their people, they charge a half hour to gather tools and drive the 600 yards to the boat, and another half hour to go back to the shop, so charge 2 hrs labor for 1 hour on the boat.
 
Near as I remember, the only things they need is the tubing cut squarely... and inserted all the way in.

Hard to say what you experienced. Too bad, though; they're generally pretty easy to sort out.

-Chris
I have had several sharkbite leaks, and every one was user error. Not a square cut, not deburred, or not fully inserted. Purchasing the orange tool to deburr and measure insertion has eliminated those problems.
 
Our water heater drains have not been at the bottom. Ditto water tank crossover hoses.

Instead, on the sides, a few inches up from bottom. At least in our cases, draining drops interior water level lower... and then additional air pressure forces some more out after that.

-Chris
On some heaters (like the Raritan I took out) the drain is no where near the bottom. I ran the drain until nothing further drained, then tilted it a bit and got a little more. The thing was quite heavy to remove and once in the parking lot could be turned on its side with the drain fitting down. A good two+ gallons came out.
 
I have had several sharkbite leaks, and every one was user error. Not a square cut, not deburred, or not fully inserted. Purchasing the orange tool to deburr and measure insertion has eliminated those problems.
cool link on your track. we only did a little over 500 miles last summer, up to Desolation Sound and Princess Louisa. My garmin track disappears after a few weeks. I'll have to look up the shark bite orange tool.
 
On some heaters (like the Raritan I took out) the drain is no where near the bottom. I ran the drain until nothing further drained, then tilted it a bit and got a little more. The thing was quite heavy to remove and once in the parking lot could be turned on its side with the drain fitting down. A good two+ gallons came out.
ours is just the seaward 20 G, but I can't imagine what would be involved to remove it to turn it on it's side, since it's connected to the engine side of circulating water. and there's no room. much easier to put a hose on it and used a shop vac to hopefully remove all the water. sure hope I got it all.
 
On some heaters (like the Raritan I took out) the drain is no where near the bottom. I ran the drain until nothing further drained, then tilted it a bit and got a little more. The thing was quite heavy to remove and once in the parking lot could be turned on its side with the drain fitting down. A good two+ gallons came out.

ours is just the seaward 20 G, but I can't imagine what would be involved to remove it to turn it on it's side, since it's connected to the engine side of circulating water. and there's no room. much easier to put a hose on it and used a shop vac to hopefully remove all the water. sure hope I got it all.

Ours back then were Atwoods, 11-gal o the previous boat, 20 (17.9) gallon on this on this 'til we replaced it... Kuuma would be closest current product, I think.

Drained them, blew out some more with air (which also cleared the hoses), called it good. Never an issue. Seems to me directions in the brochure said don't worry about freezing of any left over, wouldn't hurt the tank... and ref this thread, by then residual water level was already below the drain fitting.

-Chris
 
Oh, I know they are unreasonable, but am pretty stuck. they do not allow ANY work on the boat in the "storage yard". and I live 6.5 hours away, and getting an outside service person requires weeks if not months in advance and would have to pay to have the boat put in the water and drive it to a nearby regular marina, pay 75 a day to stay there to get someone out, then put the boat back in storage for the haul out fee. it's a between a rock and a hard place situation. After a full electronics package, my radio which was always fine, stopped working. the same tech guy came out and quoted "no more than 3 hours" labor. got a bill of 3k including 10 hours labor. I went to the CEO and they said it just took longer than expected. any time you use their people, they charge a half hour to gather tools and drive the 600 yards to the boat, and another half hour to go back to the shop, so charge 2 hrs labor for 1 hour on the boat.
How do they know / police what you do inside your boat? Or are you not even allowed aboard when in the yard?
Glad I'm not stuck with that or I'd be doing all my work before putting it in storage.
 
How do they know / police what you do inside your boat? Or are you not even allowed aboard when in the yard?
Glad I'm not stuck with that or I'd be doing all my work before putting it in storage.
So far, the signs at the gate seem to have prevented any contractors from agreeing to enter the yard. I do what I can do, and I did a lot more on the sailboats we owned over 40 years. but have not wanted to do things that were outside my comfort zone. I will say, the only positive thing about the yard is they do allow us to stay aboard in the yard. If they take that away, I'd be moving to another yard that allows some limited work, but doesn't allow people to stay on the boat outside of business hours. when we come over, we like to get on the boat and go. this summer that meant late june until the day before labor day. it would be quite expensive to stay at a local marina trying to arrange well in advance any work to be done.
 

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