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I was either going to use this http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Pl...onze_Grey_Smoked_Gray_Colored?range=49,96,108
or get some tempered glass. I've got lots of windows to replace.
or get some tempered glass. I've got lots of windows to replace.
psneeld
Guru
Might be my summer project.* May replace all the sliders with fixed and*the stern*salon windows with a couple top hinged (sliders on boats seem to be a constant battle).
May go with these as most aluminum frames are powder coated and after a few years or less if nicked get ugley fast...
http://www.marinelitewindows.com/en/pattern/pattern.html*
May go with these as most aluminum frames are powder coated and after a few years or less if nicked get ugley fast...
http://www.marinelitewindows.com/en/pattern/pattern.html*
Edelweiss
Guru
Nice pattern, I can see where that would make easy work*with smaller window openings.**I did my 9 foot long, one piece wood frames, aft cabin windows and that was a joy.* No choice but to take them out first.
I also eliminated the sliders and haven't missed them for a moment.* In the aft head, I installed a vent fan into an engine room exhaust vent to deal with the shower moisture.
I went with anodized aluminum frames*and after*6 years they still look great.* Be sure and follow the manufactures instruction for installation.* That double backed gasket supplied with the windows seemed unimpressive, but those who choose to use sealer instead, especially 5200, will regret it in a few years when their windows begin to leak.
Larry B
-- Edited by Edelweiss on Sunday 25th of December 2011 02:17:40 PM
Keep in mind that Pexiglas scratches pretty easily (Lexan is even worse in this regard although it's stronger).* If your windows are the sorts of things that people may be brushing up against as they walk down the deck or there is a likelihood of somebody scraping them with a boathook or whatever, I think you will be pretty disappointed if you use either Plex or Lexan.
motion30
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diamond sea glass great windows and great service
O C Diver
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*Really happy with my Marinelite window. 7 years of heavy use without leaking a drop (including green water on the slider).
Sortie
Senior Member
Just did my windows,this past summer. Used these folks and highly ewcommend them. http://www.wynneinc.com/*Great product,better service. Used plastic.
*
John
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John
FF
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"I think very light tint forward with darker tint on sides and aft. "
Might be great in Maine where extra heat in the cabin during the day is good.
For southern boats remember ANY tinting works by absorbing the solar energy anr turning it into heat.
This heat is IN your cabin and impossible to reject.
Far better for a Southeren boat is CLEAR glass and inside window covering (white/reflective) that can reflect the energy (heat) outside.
Want proof ? , touch any dark glass while it faces the sun.
Might be great in Maine where extra heat in the cabin during the day is good.
For southern boats remember ANY tinting works by absorbing the solar energy anr turning it into heat.
This heat is IN your cabin and impossible to reject.
Far better for a Southeren boat is CLEAR glass and inside window covering (white/reflective) that can reflect the energy (heat) outside.
Want proof ? , touch any dark glass while it faces the sun.
psneeld
Guru
*Could you please direct me to one source that agrees with you.* EVERY source I've read disagrees.* The entire Car industry disagrees with you.
I'm interested in your theory...but it just doesn't sgree with what I have read.
Besides, the tinting isn't only to reduce heat gain...it just cuts down on brightnes/glares in sunny areas.
I replaced the two forward sliders on the house last spring.* The old, 1981 vintage windows leaked whenever we ran in heavy weather and took waves across the bow.* We are very happy with the results and the customer service from AJR Windows of Port Coquitlam, BC.* Their website is www.ajr-windows.com.
The windows were fabricated using 1/4" laminated and untinted glass.* The forward portion of the window slides aft for ventilation.* Assembly included screens on the inside of both windows.* Total cost was $1,152 U.S. with no taxes and no delivery charges (we drove across the border and picked them up in British Columbia).* I did the installation myself.* Installation was straight forward once I cleaned and enlarged the openings to accomodate the new windows.* The old windows were adhered into place using 5200 or a similar caulking compound.* Major effort to remove the aluminum frames.* I destroyed one of the old windows removing it from the house.* Our installation was complicated by a significant (about 1" along a 42" window), horizontal camber or curve to the side of the house which meant the windows had to be "bent" to conform to the shape of the house.
Here are before, during and after photos of our installation.
*
The windows were fabricated using 1/4" laminated and untinted glass.* The forward portion of the window slides aft for ventilation.* Assembly included screens on the inside of both windows.* Total cost was $1,152 U.S. with no taxes and no delivery charges (we drove across the border and picked them up in British Columbia).* I did the installation myself.* Installation was straight forward once I cleaned and enlarged the openings to accomodate the new windows.* The old windows were adhered into place using 5200 or a similar caulking compound.* Major effort to remove the aluminum frames.* I destroyed one of the old windows removing it from the house.* Our installation was complicated by a significant (about 1" along a 42" window), horizontal camber or curve to the side of the house which meant the windows had to be "bent" to conform to the shape of the house.
Here are before, during and after photos of our installation.
*
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O C Diver
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I have lightly tinted sides and clear front. I run a lot at night and reduced visibility (opposite of most cruisers) so thought tinting the front wasn't a good idea.
*Second part of the question* --* are your windows clear or tinted?*
*Clear.* As they were originally.
And for the record, while we have rebuilt just about every window on the boat none of this was necessary to correct leaks.* We have yet to have any window leak on this boat.* Instead the rebuilds were to refinish frames, or in one case replace an entire fame section, replace clouded or delaminating glass, or to replace worn-out track in sliding windows.
-- Edited by Marin on Monday 26th of December 2011 11:47:43 AM
skipperdude
Guru
I have a cabin made of plywood covered in glass. The windows were installed using the black rubber with the spline to expand the rubber.
Problem: The plywood around the windows has rotted into powder after many years. in places all I have is the thin outer fiberglass shell. *I can't replace the windows (one Is cracked) using the original method. Has anyone had this issue and solved it?
SD
Problem: The plywood around the windows has rotted into powder after many years. in places all I have is the thin outer fiberglass shell. *I can't replace the windows (one Is cracked) using the original method. Has anyone had this issue and solved it?
SD
O C Diver
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*It depends on how far the rot goes. My Bruno has balsa cored hull, decks, and wash boards. Had some spots as you describe.
With the window removed, use a 1/4 rod with a pointed hook on the end to scrape, gouge, and remove any loose rotted material. A shop vac and a blow gun on an air compressor will help clear most everything out. Once what is left has dried, the void should then be filled with westsystem putty. The putty is a mixture of 66% #404 High-Density filler and 33% #407 Low-Density filler mixed into westsystem epoxy. You probably don't want to fill more than 2" or 3" laterally of the void at a time. The putty expands as it cures. If you pack too much putty in the wall at one time, as the putty expands, it may make the wall bulge. Done correctly, what you end up with is a solid wall of epoxy and fiberglass. I would guess you could do this for voids to maybe 12'' deep. I use this technique when installing through hull fittings. Cut the hole, gouge the balsa back 4", and then fill the void with westsystem putty.
-- Edited by O C Diver on Monday 26th of December 2011 05:28:12 PM
healhustler
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*Steppen: *Did you have the glass company actually radius the windows to curve around the opening?
**In the last couple of months, I've seen these two Great Lakes 33's anchored here, presumably looking for weather windows to the Islands. *The first photo is "New Moon", which has a canvas and aluminum framed fly-bridge. *The second one I can't recall the name of, but had a full fiberglass fly-bridge. *The roof line and side wings really make this boat stand out.
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If the original poster owns a Taiwanese, Hong Kong, or Singaporean type boat with wood framed windows, and just want's to replace the glass, I'd go with laminated safety glass.
When tempered glass, as used in hundreds of Marshall Boat Co./Wellcraft Californians breaks, it goes everywhere - I know because I owned a 34 and a sailboat put it's anchor thru one of the salon windows. Safe little pieces, but a open hole where the glass used to be.
Laminated safety glass stays in place - keeping most of the water out. Of course if it were weather conditions that broke the glass then the next wave is probably going to take out you laminated glass.
If the original poster is looking for manufactured windows with frames then I second the recommendation of MarineLite windows. I've had them in the little DeFever for 8 years, and they look as good as the day(s) they were installed. Pricey, but worth it.
A little polishing compound once a year to the frames - and they're brand new!
Much better than powder coated 6061.
Mike
Palm Coast FL.
If the original poster owns a Taiwanese, Hong Kong, or Singaporean type boat with wood framed windows, and just want's to replace the glass, I'd go with laminated safety glass.
When tempered glass, as used in hundreds of Marshall Boat Co./Wellcraft Californians breaks, it goes everywhere - I know because I owned a 34 and a sailboat put it's anchor thru one of the salon windows. Safe little pieces, but a open hole where the glass used to be.
Laminated safety glass stays in place - keeping most of the water out. Of course if it were weather conditions that broke the glass then the next wave is probably going to take out you laminated glass.
If the original poster is looking for manufactured windows with frames then I second the recommendation of MarineLite windows. I've had them in the little DeFever for 8 years, and they look as good as the day(s) they were installed. Pricey, but worth it.
A little polishing compound once a year to the frames - and they're brand new!
Much better than powder coated 6061.
Mike
Palm Coast FL.
FF
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"Besides, the tinting isn't only to reduce heat gain...it just cuts down on brightnes/glares in sunny areas."
The heat gain is of no concern to car builders as there is usually a huge air cond setup to remove the heat.
Yes the glare and brightness will be reduced. Touch the surface to feel the temperature.
The best covering would be the reflective mirror stuff (like Bubba Lawman sun glasses) but the Hooligan Navy is instructed to search "unusual" boats.
No one has mentioned the possibility of an up grade to sea going windows.
The heat gain is of no concern to car builders as there is usually a huge air cond setup to remove the heat.
Yes the glare and brightness will be reduced. Touch the surface to feel the temperature.
The best covering would be the reflective mirror stuff (like Bubba Lawman sun glasses) but the Hooligan Navy is instructed to search "unusual" boats.
No one has mentioned the possibility of an up grade to sea going windows.
psneeld
Guru
*Old school thinking about tinted glass...unless every manufacturer and end user is lying about light and heat transmission.* Yes it gets hot but less heat is conducted through the glass than if infra red gets through to interior surfaces.* Plus the tinting helps with reducung ultra violet and fading of interior furnishings.
What kind of sea going windows do you mean? Most of our trawlers aren't sea going enough to demand anything better than good tempered or laminated glass.
skipperdude
Guru
OK, First question - Can you see the void/rot on the interior walls? If so, scrape back to solid as previously suggested, but I would NOT use any expanding material to refill the gaps. Two products - The new West Marine "Six 10" epoxy in a tube will work without sagging, or, my preference, Evercoat "Everglass short strand Fiberglass reinforced body filler (pink can in quarts). This stuff is fantastic. It is essencially Kitty Hair, but with no string in it. It works wonderfully, sets in 15 minutes, can be sanded, formed, and painted. This allows for no window removal, but of course, there is no matching surface on the interior. If yours is painted walls, then no problem. I have just replaced all the veritcal walls in the main salon, which include two 6 foot long windows and two 5 foot windows (one of each) on each side, and a 6 foot window on the back wall, and will be posting updates with pictures, but for now, find out how extensive the rotting is. If the windows are old sliders, they will continue to leak unless a new lower track is put in, or if they are fixed, make sure you recaulk the frame exteriors COMPLETELY around the windows. For that I would use the Six 10 product. These leaks will come from anywhere. My construction is the same as yours, fiberglass over ply, so be prepared for extensive rot. Go for it. I'll post pix soon.
*I can see the rot but when I was rebuilding the interior walls I framed the windows back about 2 inches* with 2x2's. Like I said reguarding the type of windows they are non opening. Just a plate of glass with the rubber rim that holds it into place I'm sure you have seen them on aluminum boats.
If I do As you suggest* and use the kitty hair or something similar. do I bond it to the old fiberglass shell as I would any fiberglass. Sand, Acetone and apply? I will have about 2" around the window perhaps 3 after removing the rubber. I think I*understand what*you are saying. I just wory about making the edge of equal thickness for the new rubber gasket.
SD
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Phil Fill
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When we bought the Eagle it had dry rot under the four salon slider windows, so the glass had to be taken out.* I broke/cracked 3 of the 4 windows, so we decided to replace all the glass, and build back/replace exactly was original designed with a few *changes/modifications as possible. *We went with the same size safety glass did not want have to change the wood *frames/trim, and the glass to be darker.* We went with a dark bronze color which sort of went with the teak trim, mainly for privacy as our dock was open to the public, and reduce the sun.* I took the original glass to a local glass shop, Goldfinch in Everett, who made the new glass exactly the same size with rounded beveled corners that fit perfectly.
*
In the winter time I have 3/8" plex a glass over the windows that keeps the rain/cold off the windows keeping them dry and layer of warm air.* Increase the salon temp by 5+ degrees and it also reduced the draft, and no foggy/damp windows.
*
In the winter time I have 3/8" plex a glass over the windows that keeps the rain/cold off the windows keeping them dry and layer of warm air.* Increase the salon temp by 5+ degrees and it also reduced the draft, and no foggy/damp windows.
FF
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What kind of sea going windows do you mean?
Most of our trawlers aren't sea going enough to demand anything better than good tempered or laminated glass.
I was thinking o f good quality OTS (off the shelf) framed windows from most any mfg.
All the hassles with constant leaks and subsequent TT rot are caused by a cheap builder cheaping out big time by "creating" window frames from common plywood . When the sealant dries out , there goes the cabin or pilot house walls.
"Rebuilding" or creating a copy of poor construction is STILL lousey construction.
Paying the piper and installing a nice framed window requires fewer skill sets , and with good construction not only will the sealants last longer but the next R&R will take little time AND ALMOST NO BUCKS.
AS these are usually easily ordered in thermopaine style , to me that would be a seagoing up grade , even if you don't cruise often below freezing.
Most of our trawlers aren't sea going enough to demand anything better than good tempered or laminated glass.
I was thinking o f good quality OTS (off the shelf) framed windows from most any mfg.
All the hassles with constant leaks and subsequent TT rot are caused by a cheap builder cheaping out big time by "creating" window frames from common plywood . When the sealant dries out , there goes the cabin or pilot house walls.
"Rebuilding" or creating a copy of poor construction is STILL lousey construction.
Paying the piper and installing a nice framed window requires fewer skill sets , and with good construction not only will the sealants last longer but the next R&R will take little time AND ALMOST NO BUCKS.
AS these are usually easily ordered in thermopaine style , to me that would be a seagoing up grade , even if you don't cruise often below freezing.
Healhustler asked:** Steppen: Did you have the glass company actually radius the windows to curve around the opening?
OK, so this is a little hard to explain.* To order the windows you (1) take out the old windows, (2) make a template or tracing of the opening and (3) send the tracing to the manufacturer.* That all went well but I, repeat I, failed to take into account the camber on the side of the house.* So when I received the originally manufactured windows they didn't fit exactly right (actually they had about a 1" gap on the leading and trailing edges of the frames).* The manufacturer worked with me and decided he could bend the frames to fit the contour AND replace the 5/16" original laminated glass with 1/4" glass.* This allowed the single sliding pane to slide inside a slightly larger 5/16" track.*
The owner of AJR Windows was really great to work with.* He converted my mistake into a workable solution.* If we had stayed with the thicker glass then he would have been forced to reduce the size of the sliding pane or would have had to redesign it to being an awning type opening rather than a slider.
-- Edited by Steppen on Tuesday 27th of December 2011 04:17:30 PM
OK, so this is a little hard to explain.* To order the windows you (1) take out the old windows, (2) make a template or tracing of the opening and (3) send the tracing to the manufacturer.* That all went well but I, repeat I, failed to take into account the camber on the side of the house.* So when I received the originally manufactured windows they didn't fit exactly right (actually they had about a 1" gap on the leading and trailing edges of the frames).* The manufacturer worked with me and decided he could bend the frames to fit the contour AND replace the 5/16" original laminated glass with 1/4" glass.* This allowed the single sliding pane to slide inside a slightly larger 5/16" track.*
The owner of AJR Windows was really great to work with.* He converted my mistake into a workable solution.* If we had stayed with the thicker glass then he would have been forced to reduce the size of the sliding pane or would have had to redesign it to being an awning type opening rather than a slider.
-- Edited by Steppen on Tuesday 27th of December 2011 04:17:30 PM
Daddyo
Guru
I've used the Wynn windows twice and they are great! The prices are fantastic, quality is spot on and service is excellent. Anodized frames light tinted sides, laminated smoke on last boat and green on the current boat.
Fairweather
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Marin, where did you find the tracks for the sliders? We have an '86 GB 32 that is going to need to have some delaminating panes and their fuzzy tracks replaced - help?
KJ wrote:
Second part of the question -- are your windows clear or tinted?
Clear. As they were originally.
And for the record, while we have rebuilt just about every window on the boat none of this was necessary to correct leaks. We have yet to have any window leak on this boat. Instead the rebuilds were to refinish frames, or in one case replace an entire fame section, replace clouded or delaminating glass, or to replace worn-out track in sliding windows.
KJ wrote:
Second part of the question -- are your windows clear or tinted?
Clear. As they were originally.
And for the record, while we have rebuilt just about every window on the boat none of this was necessary to correct leaks. We have yet to have any window leak on this boat. Instead the rebuilds were to refinish frames, or in one case replace an entire fame section, replace clouded or delaminating glass, or to replace worn-out track in sliding windows.
