Windlass question that is really general electric motor question

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bill209

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Aug 17, 2023
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The windlass (fwiw, Lewmmar Pro Series 1000) stopped working.

If the motor is good working order, should I be able to manually turn it? Mine will not turn based on the following condition.

In the attached photo, if gear three is removed, I can easily turn gears 1 and 2 with a half inch socket wrench. However, if I attach gear three, which engages the motor gear (gear 4), the gears are locked and will not budge in either direction.

I just wanted to confirm or refute this was assigned that the motor is locked up and dead. : (

Thank you!

[edit: when attempting to engage the windlass via its controls, you can hear a clicking sound when pushing either the up or down button, but there is no movement of the chain. I have not yet troubleshooted - troubleshot? - the electrical connections yet, but will do so tomorrow.]

IMG_9503 copy.jpeg
 
If you take out gear #3, does the motor turn? Does the motor run without gear 3?

Ted
 
Yes, I would pull that gear and see if the motor will run up or down when you activate the switch.
 
The windlass (fwiw, Lewmmar Pro Series 1000) stopped working.

If the motor is good working order, should I be able to manually turn it? Mine will not turn based on the following condition.

In the attached photo, if gear three is removed, I can easily turn gears 1 and 2 with a half inch socket wrench. However, if I attach gear three, which engages the motor gear (gear 4), the gears are locked and will not budge in either direction.

I just wanted to confirm or refute this was assigned that the motor is locked up and dead. : (

Thank you!

[edit: when attempting to engage the windlass via its controls, you can hear a clicking sound when pushing either the up or down button, but there is no movement of the chain. I have not yet troubleshooted - troubleshot? - the electrical connections yet, but will do so tomorrow.]

View attachment 159736
 
I had a windlass very similar to yours. The motor has an electric brake on its shaft, to stop the sunglass paying out under load. The brake is released magnetically when power is applied, making a clicking noise. The control circuit applies power to the brake at the same time as the motor gets power.

You will not be able to turn the motor by hand without applying power to the brake. The clicking you heard is presumably, the brake releasing.

Remove gear 3, and try to rotate the motor by hand, with and without pressing the UP button.
 
Ah yes, the old windlass motor problem........
If it is the motor, and you find a reasonable priced replacement, pls share where.
 
Hi guys, sorry for the slow response, you know, other problems…

I did try the things you suggested, and it definitely pointed me to the problem.

The motor still would not run when pulling the third gear.

After a bit of resistance (with the third gear removed) I could turn the motor manually but there was a nasty grinding noise. It really sounded like there were broken bits being shoved around inside the motor. Once moving I could then turn the motor fairly easily in that direction, but as soon as I would go the opposite direction it would lock back up. This similar process would work in either direction. My assumption is that there are broken bits inside that would eventually find a place to rest when the motor was moving in one direction, but would then be disturbed once the motor went the other direction.

The conclusion is this motor is dead.

Given that this is the 26 year-old windlass, I am leaning towards replacing it with the same make/model (Lewmmar Pro Series 1000). I’m certainly open to your thoughts on this matter.

Thanks to all of you for your very helpful responses!
bill
 
Motors for this can be had for less than 200. If gears are not damaged/worn i wouldnt pop for new.
 
Did you release the brake as I suggested in Post #5?
 
The description given made me think about brushes. Having once experiencing brushes disappearing and the brush holder and spring getting caught up. I know I would take it apart and find the source of the grinding, then decide next step.
 
I agree. Those gears look pretty good and they are straight spur which are very efficient as compared to worm type. Take that motor to a rebuild shop. Series wound DC motors are pretty simple and very rugged. Yeah I suspect the brushes / holders are all chewed up. If the commutator can be turned you'll probably get out pretty cheap.
 
Did you release the brake as I suggested in Post #5?
Hi Nick, I think I did ... If you are talking about loosening the clutch nut on the gypsy. Let me know if you are thinking of something else. Thanks!
 
Hi Nick, I think I did ... If you are talking about loosening the clutch nut on the gypsy. Let me know if you are thinking of something else. Thanks!
No, not that clutch!

I attach a picture of the motor on my old winch which is probably very similar because it also had the same (spur gear) type gear arrangement. The light grey (unpainted aluminum) piece on the left hand side of the motor is the clutch that you need to think about. Instead of energising it to release it you could simply remove it from the motor shaft. Without energising or removing the clutch it will be difficult to rotate the motor shaft.
 

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No, not that clutch!

I attach a picture of the motor on my old winch which is probably very similar because it also had the same (spur gear) type gear arrangement. The light grey (unpainted aluminum) piece on the left hand side of the motor is the clutch that you need to think about. Instead of energising it to release it you could simply remove it from the motor shaft. Without energising or removing the clutch it will be difficult to rotate the motor shaft.
ah, got it Nick, thanks!
 
While I like to rebuild things, there's a lot to be said for new. If you're contemplating replacing the motor, I would go through everything before buying the motor.

Areas of concern would include:

The paws on the gypsy (chain pulley)
Bearings, shafts, and gears
Electric solenoids
Clutch(es)
Remote control

I tended to anchor out a lot (as many as 80 times per year). For me, the windlass has to be reliable, period. So I rebuilt mine when I bought the boat. The previous owners traveled from dock to dock, so there wasn't any wear. Depending on your perceived use and possible knowledge of previous owners, I would be cautious about just replacing the motor.

Ted
 
Ted, you bring up a concern that is at the forefront of my worries - I am fairly sure that for the past few years the Windlass was not maintained, though it may not have been used very much either. When opening the gearbox the grease seems more gelatinous than greasy. The windlass has been an issue since I've purchased the boat (only a couple of months ago) and I do plan on anchoring out a LOT. I do need it to be reliable. Manually lowering/raising the anchor is not only tedious (especially for my old bones) but is also not as safe given how long it takes me to lower/raise it versus having the motor do it. plus I cannot be at the helm while doing it,.

I certainly do not want to spend money needlessly, so I will be taking the motor out and giving the rest of the windlass a good going over, though I realize I do not have the expertise to make a confident judgment on its condition.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Lewmar 1st/2nd Generation Replacement 12V Motor for 700/1000 Pro-Series/Fish Models with Serial Numbers Starting in 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 570, 571-​


but if i on your place , buy new winch. this is tiny windlass 700w possible find under 1000$ also possible find used motor around 100-150$
 

Lewmar 1st/2nd Generation Replacement 12V Motor for 700/1000 Pro-Series/Fish Models with Serial Numbers Starting in 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 570, 571-​


but if i on your place , buy new winch. this is tiny windlass 700w possible find under 1000$ also possible find used motor around 100-150$
@more - I bought the windlass you linked to ($141), installed it today and am now the happy papa of a working windlass! Thank you!!!
 
i glad can help peopel. my job,hobby in my family is searching for good price for repair my boat in charter fleet.
my record price is

DOMETICColdMachine CU-84 got 50€ with shipping to my door (shipping is 25$​

vevor inverter 5000w 5 pieces for 17€ per pieces with shipping to my door over 150 kg.
 

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