Water makers

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Senior Member
Oct 6, 2007
I have decieded on the brand/output of a water maker I am going to install.* The manual says NOT to permanently connect the outflow to a water holding tank as there is a possibiulity of a catistrophic failure, contaninating the entire tank.

How has anyone dealth with this?
"T" fitting.* You should dump the first few pints of product anyway when starting the WM according to most of the instructions I have seen.* I took mine unit out, but it was plumbed tjhat way with a*manifold*that went overboard, to a sampling spigot*or to the tank.
water makers.. interesting invention.
next i guess you will start to grow vegetables on the sundeck?

let us know how (the watermaker) the installation came out when you are done..
marinetrader wrote:
The manual says NOT to permanently connect the outflow to a water holding tank as there is a possibiulity of a catistrophic failure, contaninating the entire tank.

Well, that's weird.* What they must mean is a diverter valve, which on most units is automatic based on salinity.* Without plumbing to the tanks, what is their plan?* Buckets dumped in the tank after taste testing?

What brand are we talking about here?


My diverter is manual, I run the RO until the output is below 400 on the TDS meter and then push it to one FW tank.
This just runs straight to the bilge
This way if there is still a contamination it is only one tank contaminated.

Yes, strange but thats what written in the manual; says to collect water in a day tank or jerry cans, then dump into holding tanks.

I know about the 3-way diverter valve for taste testing and start up phase
That makes about as much sense as crapping in a bucket and dumping it in the holding tank.* Delfin has the right idea, with either a dedicated salinity monitor or the human version.* We always dumped the output of our watermaker into one of two tanks so we had some redundancy.. and tast tested the last batch before filling the second tank. It isn't rocket science

Yea looking at the same* product up grade later this year, please keep us posted on your findings and install. Anyone with product recomendations of device that work in both salt and brackish water ?* Or is there a complete flush and reconfiguartion required to move between the two ?
This is how my Watermaker is connected.

-- Edited by jcwyatt on Friday 25th of March 2011 12:56:47 PM


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Look at the Spectra units with the MPC smart controller and the Z Brane system. The first couple of gallons dump into a throughhull until the sensors detect the proper quality of water only then will it divert to the freshwater holding tank. I have the unit only fill one tank the other water tank is always fed at the dock.
I have been extremely happy with the unit.
I still hope he dumps his made water for at least the first 10 mins.
Even with fresh membranes (after they are run in) it takes that long to get the produced water down below 400ppm which is an acceptable level
to put into your tanks.
As said previously I make to one tank and use from the other.

On the outflow of the product water, we have a 3 way valve mounted under the sink in the galley. One direction of the valve goes to a sample port which is connected to a Whale Swing Spout in the galley sink. The other goes to our water tanks. When the water meets our standards, which we test at the galley sink, we turn the valve to the tanks. When we shut the watermaker off, we turn the valve back to the sample port. In over 12 years we have never had a catastrophic failure or have heard of one.
Before purchasing the unit , read the instructions for storage.

It is sometimes a big deal!Be sure it is worth the hassle to you.
When shutting down an RO system for a long period of time, flush the system for at least 15/20 mins with produced water.
There is no need for any chemicals as long as the produced water does not contain any town water type chemicals/minerals etc.


-- Edited by Tidahapah on Tuesday 29th of March 2011 04:32:16 AM
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