Tool for removing rudder post

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

albinalaska

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Messages
137
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Sea Gypsy
Vessel Make
1979 Albin Trawler 36'
i’m looking for some assistance on tools or techniques for removing a couple of bronze rudder ports on our vessel.

other than just a vague sense that after 40+ years they should be serviced and rather significant oxidation id like to clean; they functioned on our 750 NM trip home fine.

i’ve already dropped the rudders and removed the base mounts for the posts from the lazarette as well as some other hardware on the steering ram for cleaning and restoration, but there remains some sort of base i’m not familiar with and some style of rudder post housing i can’t quite verify yet either.

does anyone know what style of rudder posts these are? they have zerg fittings but extensive googling hasn’t come up with a satisfying resolution for branding and subsequent service manuals.

if my assumption that they can be pulled out is correct is there any type of tool that i may need or tactics to employ for getting it out? or things to be careful about or watch for?

appreciate any info, insight, or ideas! grateful for this community of knowledgers!

kyle
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3038.jpeg
    IMG_3038.jpeg
    92.5 KB · Views: 101
  • IMG_3037.jpeg
    IMG_3037.jpeg
    89.8 KB · Views: 95
  • IMG_3120.jpeg
    IMG_3120.jpeg
    86.1 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_3143.jpeg
    IMG_3143.jpeg
    121.3 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_3147.jpeg
    IMG_3147.jpeg
    121.5 KB · Views: 91
Have you tried loosening the 4 bolts at the corners? They may be lag screws or bolts.
 
I recently had my rudders overhauled and the fitting looks quite similar to yours. I didn't do the work (way beyond my conpetency level) but did watch how they did it.

As I recall, the top fitting (that would tighten on the gland packing) just unbolted (two bolts). The rudders had been dropped which allowed this fitting to be removed over the top of the rudder post. At this point, you could see that the plate (with the 4 screws on top) was itself screwed into a threaded fitting. Basically 1 of two parts (top and bottom) that hold the bearing in. We didn't do it, but my understanding was that if we wanted to remove that fitting then (having removed the 4 screws) the whole plate could be unscrewed. The bottom piece should then fall down (allowing the bearing to be ultimately replaced). In my case, the bearing was good so we didn't replace it.

The mechanic took away the original top packing plate and modified it to now be a dripless seal. Not quite sure how he did it but he seemed to think it was pretty easy and quite a common modification. So far working very well and much better than the original dripping style. Sorry I didn't take more pictures but for me the main work being done was around the actual rudder support structure and the seals was secondary.
 

Attachments

  • 20240517_123621.jpg
    20240517_123621.jpg
    104.3 KB · Views: 74
  • 20240517_125353.jpg
    20240517_125353.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 75
  • 20240820_080834.jpg
    20240820_080834.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 73
  • 20240820_080752.jpg
    20240820_080752.jpg
    73.3 KB · Views: 71
  • 20240820_080918.jpg
    20240820_080918.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 71
  • 20240517_123631.jpg
    20240517_123631.jpg
    127.8 KB · Views: 71
Repack them just like a propeller shaft stuffing box. Use bronze fasteners when you reinstall your SS may be subject to crevice corrosion in this location.
 
I have been told, the dripless system ( of which I had installed) does not hold up as well as the old fashion flax packing system.
 
Have you tried loosening the 4 bolts at the corners? They may be lag screws or bolts.
I have not yet tried to loosen the four bolts on the sides of the bottom piece of that plate. I was hesitant as I don't know how they are affixed inside that block. I imagine I'll have to try that the next time I'm at the boat. As I've not been able to find any literature on anything that looks like this specific model online; I've had to be very cautious on how I proceed.
 
Just a wild guess but maybe those corner bolts thread into a plate on the outside of the hull. Possibly recessed in the hull. Try undoing one and see what type and length it is.
 
Pretty sure those 4 corner bolts just secure the fitting which is itself screwed into a bottom piece. Once you remove those 4 bolts the top fitting can be unscrewed.
 
I wouldn’t remove the 4 bolt base. Just remove the 2 bolt gland and pull the packing. Clean the base in situ, and re-pack with new packing of your choice. It’s an extremely simple fitting.
 
UPDATE: this repair was much easier than I anticipated. My only apprehension was the possibility of inadvertently causing damage when trying to remove old parts that haven't been serviced in many, many decades.

Nonetheless, I pried the gland followers off on each side (stbd took maybe an hour, port took 10 minutes - certainly learned after the stbd side). I used a heat gun, some penetrating oil, a cold chisel and a hammer and tapped the underside of the gland followers upward, alternating on each side directly at the two retaining bolts.

Once out, the packing was easily removed. I found that there is a cutlass bearing below about 6 layers of Teflon packing. (well, the port side had 6 layers, the stbd side only had 5 layers) I'm still not convinced that I should replace the cutlass bearings or not though it seems prudent to do so. Any input on their condition would be appreciated. I see the fairly consistent ridges of the rubber but haven't cleaned the surfaces yet, so, obviously, if there is deformation or wear it will be an easy decision.

Again, this was a simple process so anyone getting into the same situation: Definitely something that is in the DIY arena. I ordered the little removal tool for the packing but was able to claw it all out with a really small pick.

I've attached some photos for those interested. I'll get the bronze cleaned off with acid and beautify the fittings.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4187.jpg
    IMG_4187.jpg
    64.1 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_4188.jpg
    IMG_4188.jpg
    60.2 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_4190.jpg
    IMG_4190.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_4206.jpg
    IMG_4206.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_4210.jpg
    IMG_4210.jpg
    201 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_4212.jpg
    IMG_4212.jpg
    101.7 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_4214.jpg
    IMG_4214.jpg
    79.2 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_4215.jpg
    IMG_4215.jpg
    85.3 KB · Views: 42
  • IMG_4216.jpg
    IMG_4216.jpg
    76.2 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_4221.jpg
    IMG_4221.jpg
    134.1 KB · Views: 38
I realized that obvious answer as I was watching myself type that out... ha... any advice or tips for explaining yet another $360 purchase to my girlfriend? ha.. but really..
 
I realized that obvious answer as I was watching myself type that out... ha... any advice or tips for explaining yet another $360 purchase to my girlfriend? ha.. but really..
Just tell her it is so you won’t sink. I can get anything I want for the boat as long as I can tell her it will prevent us from sinking.;)
 
i already got the sound system so we don’t sink and the underwater lights so we don’t sink…
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom