Time for a new tender, many questions.

[Pat T]

1st off, my current tender is too big and old. It is an Avon that I think is over 11 ft long. It leaks. It has a 15HP Yamaha that I can sell. Each are over 100 lbs. It's a pain to launch this heavy thing from my cabin top. My use will typically be for fun cruising up and down a small river or sightseeing the harbors. Typically 2 people but occasionally 4 people. I don't need to plane. I'm lucky to use this tender a couple of times a month. I'm looking at AB Lammina 9 AL. It is only about 9 ft long yet still will hold 4 people. I like the ePropulsion or Torqeedo (3HP equivalents) outboards for their ease of use. AB recommends an 8HP. I really don't think I need that much power for my use. And I read that small outboards become unreliable after a few years. You can try and sell me on gas , I will listen. I do want light weight though.
Anybody out there use a small electric in a 9 ft tender?
Then there is the issue of chocks. I want to keep my current spacing of chocks (they each sit on a SS frame) but AB recommends 55 inches between chocks. I have 47 inches now and it works with a 11 ft boat so I'm guessing I can make it work? I have straps to hold the boat secure . I have to make new chocks or rework the current ones to fit the new boat. They look like they are made of teak but I am thinking of using some type of lumber instead. This much new teak would be expensive.
I know you guys have opinions and great experience. You never let me down.
Thanks again.

 

[mvweebles]

Maybe a davit crane? Just so happens someone is selling one made for a GB42 classic. Won't solve your leaky RIB issue, but would definitely help with your weight issue

No affiliation with the seller. I have a similar Nick Jackson pipe davit and am happy with it

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64402

Also, the AB aluminum hull is pretty stout. You could re-locate the supports, but the CAD drawing they show that fits snuggly to the hull wont work if the separation between the chocks changes. You will need to figure something else out .

I recently purchased a 10'6" AB Lumina. Was difficult to source due to supply chain issues. I ended up making the chocks using thr CAD diagram from AB and GPO3 fiberglass sheets from McMaster Carr. Pictures attached.

Peter
View attachment 130431View attachment 130432View attachment 130433

 

[Alguires]

Went through the same situation about five years ago. I wanted to replace an 11 ft Avon and 25 hp Yamaha with something smaller but practical. Like you I decided on the 9ft AB. It fits best on the quarter deck and will carry 4 adults, cozy but comfortable. I bought a used 8hp 2 stroke for power for the light weight and the ability to plane with two people. Been happy with the choice. Did some minor wood crafting to adapt the cradle for the new hull shape. Works well and secure. Going to paint the added supports someday….

 

[Pat T]

Thank-you Peter and Craig.
Nice to know there is a davit system available for my boat but right now I think I'll hold off and use my existing system that I think will be Ok with a new smaller tender that I have to buy anyway. As for chocks, I have visions of bringing the new tender into my garage and fabricating new chocks to fit my current spacing. Or maybe it will be possible to rework existing chocks as was done on Alguires. Glad you two also picked the AB brand.

 

[mvweebles]

I narrowed my choice to Achilles or AB. Either would have been fine by me. Achilles was a bit less expensive, but not available so I went AB. The reason I went with those two manufacturers is, best i ciuld tell, they both build their own boats vs outsource to an offshore manufacturer; and they use a heavier hypalon fabric material than Highfield, the current fad leader due to their heavy investments in YouTube influencers.. Both have fine reputations.

Good luck.

Peter

 

[TheFatTick]

Looking at tenders and seem to be zeroing in on either an AB or a Polycraft 300, each for differing reasons. Really like the Polycraft, especially since I would be doing a lot of fishing from it. But at 230+ lbs, the weight is a negative.

Be very interested in following this discussion.

 

[ranger58sb]

It has a 15HP Yamaha that I can sell. Each are over 100 lbs.

You can try and sell me on gas , I will listen. I do want light weight though.

I wouldn't argue in favor of gas unless you can go with EFI. Especially if you seldom use the gas, and even more especially if you can't get ethanol-free gas. (We never had much luck with stabilizers, either.)

I think Suzuki, and maybe Tohatsu offer some small horsepower EFI models, though, so you could check their weights to see if they're in a range you can handle.

OTOH, you also have to consider how to charge an electric outboard, how batteries are installed, maybe a spare battery for range, etc.

-Chris

 

[FWT]

Pat:

If weight is the biggest issue, then consider one point about your plan to go electric on the motor. While gas engines are generally stored on the dink, which adds weight to deal with, often the electric engines are stored in a locker and mounted with each launch, since its so easy and it takes it out of constant weather exposure. Remove the engine weight from the dink launch burden and you have the option of maybe a bit more dink weight than you might otherwise target and still get a sizeable launch weight reduction.

Just a thought.

I just bought a Polycraft 300 and ePropulsion. Comments here were "gee that dink is heavy." And that's indeed true. But when I ran the math on it, that empty dink weighed exactly the same as a standard rib plus 15hp gas engine, which is a common package. Point being, you can go with pretty much any rib and get a big weight reduction by storing the electric in a locker. So you can pick the one you want, that fits your chocks, and be way ahead on weight.

 

[ksanders]

For my move to Mexico I decided to get ris of my RIB which was heave and prone to problems.

Instead I opted for an alumanium panga (skiff) and a 6 hp outboard.

The whole thing is less than 300 pounds.

 

[TheFatTick]

Pat:

If weight is the biggest issue, then consider one point about your plan to go electric on the motor. While gas engines are generally stored on the dink, which adds weight to deal with, often the electric engines are stored in a locker and mounted with each launch, since its so easy and it takes it out of constant weather exposure. Remove the engine weight from the dink launch burden and you have the option of maybe a bit more dink weight than you might otherwise target and still get a sizeable launch weight reduction.

Just a thought.

I just bought a Polycraft 300 and ePropulsion. Comments here were "gee that dink is heavy." And that's indeed true. But when I ran the math on it, that empty dink weighed exactly the same as a standard rib plus 15hp gas engine, which is a common package. Point being, you can go with pretty much any rib and get a big weight reduction by storing the electric in a locker. So you can pick the one you want, that fits your chocks, and be way ahead on weight.

What horsepower do you get from the ePropulsion system? Can you plane, and how long can you run before the power is exhausted?

Thanks. Really finding the Polycraft to be an interesting option.

 

[CharlieO.]

For my move to Mexico I decided to get ris of my RIB which was heave and prone to problems.

Instead I opted for an alumanium panga (skiff) and a 6 hp outboard.

The whole thing is less than 300 pounds.

Kevin,
How long of a skiff did you go with? We are still considering one, but the 10'ers didn't have enough load capacity for us and 12' is a bit to long for our storage options.

We did get a good deal on an inflatable with fiberglass hull that we are using now.

 

[ksanders]

Here is the model I went with.

https://www.marlonproducts.com/products/boats/welded-utility/

I like it because it's light and durable.

I bought the external fuel tank for the yamaha short shaft 6 hp engine, but really like the availability of the internal tank. That way I have a reserve if I run the big tank dry.

 

[CharlieO.]

That's nice, I like the welded aspect. Wonder why the weight capacity listed is different for Canada and the U.S.

 

[Pat T]

I wouldn't argue in favor of gas unless you can go with EFI. Especially if you seldom use the gas, and even more especially if you can't get ethanol-free gas. (We never had much luck with stabilizers, either.)

I think Suzuki, and maybe Tohatsu offer some small horsepower EFI models, though, so you could check their weights to see if they're in a range you can handle.

OTOH, you also have to consider how to charge an electric outboard, how batteries are installed, maybe a spare battery for range, etc.

-Chris

Thanks, Understand comment about EFI. Looks like you have to get 9.9 hp to get EFI and then you are close to 100 lbs. which is too heavy and too powerful for my needs.
I am usually plugged in to shore power so charging not an issue if I go electric. And when I'm not plugged in I do have inverter and generator.

 

[Pat T]

Pat:

If weight is the biggest issue, then consider one point about your plan to go electric on the motor. While gas engines are generally stored on the dink, which adds weight to deal with, often the electric engines are stored in a locker and mounted with each launch, since its so easy and it takes it out of constant weather exposure. Remove the engine weight from the dink launch burden and you have the option of maybe a bit more dink weight than you might otherwise target and still get a sizeable launch weight reduction.

Just a thought.

I just bought a Polycraft 300 and ePropulsion. Comments here were "gee that dink is heavy." And that's indeed true. But when I ran the math on it, that empty dink weighed exactly the same as a standard rib plus 15hp gas engine, which is a common package. Point being, you can go with pretty much any rib and get a big weight reduction by storing the electric in a locker. So you can pick the one you want, that fits your chocks, and be way ahead on weight.

Thank-you. For ease and simplicity I am hoping to leave the electric attached to the dink. I hope I can lock it like small outboards I have used? Probably just take the battery off for charging. And I will have a cover to protect most of the outboard from weaather. I appreciate the fact that you are happy with the ePropulsion and moving the heavier Polycraft through the water. I am leaning toward the ePropulsion.

 

[FWT]

What horsepower do you get from the ePropulsion system? Can you plane, and how long can you run before the power is exhausted?

Thanks. Really finding the Polycraft to be an interesting option.

3hp

No shot at a plane. Wasn't my goal.

Range is entirely dependent on the speed you run it. There is a table on their site that can give you info on that.

I just took delivery of both boat and motor. Sitting in my garage. The mothership it will go on (Helmsman 38) won't be delivered until next spring. So I can't give a true review on either from use.

 

[FWT]

Thank-you. For ease and simplicity I am hoping to leave the electric attached to the dink. I hope I can lock it like small outboards I have used? Probably just take the battery off for charging. And I will have a cover to protect most of the outboard from weaather. I appreciate the fact that you are happy with the ePropulsion and moving the heavier Polycraft through the water. I am leaning toward the ePropulsion.

Pat:

Its not clear to me yet how to lock it reliably.

From what I can see so far, not sure I'd attempt to leave it constantly in the elements. The battery connections are reasonable for some spray and rain in use, but not so much I'd expect zero water on the connections if under constant pressure from weather.

It occurs to me you have an option to test your theory of how well you might like the overall plan. What you could do is figure out the shaft length you expect to need on a new dingy of choice. Hold off on the dink but pull the trigger on the motor. Remove the gas engine, and try out the current dink with the new electric motor. If it works as you want it to, you can proceed with the new dink. If not, you have less invested and since electric motors are hard to come by I'd suspect you could resell easily with small loss. Try the plan, with downside risks covered.

 

[FWT]

FatTick:

Polycraft: It is indeed a heavy boat. Almost identical to a Whaly, but a heavy boat. Two people "can" lift it, but with back and hernia risk. LOL. Four people (2 per side) is more reasonable.

Having stepped aboard one in the water, I'd say part of the stability is from the weight / mass. But that is a two-edged sword. Stable, but more to lift. Like most things, it gets back to personal priorities.

 

[Seevee]

Good info here. I also had a 9ft AL AB dinghy which was "fair" light weight, but only had 6hp gas motor (not enough).


Ideally, I'd love to have an aluminum boat or plastic (like the Whaley, but lighter) that would have a side console, less than 400 lbs total and with enough power to plain. Can't find one.


After several RIBS, hate them.....they ALL will eventually leak. I've got a brand new one that has had a leak problem for a year and still fighting with them. But they are light weight.

 

[Pat T]

Pat:

Its not clear to me yet how to lock it reliably.

From what I can see so far, not sure I'd attempt to leave it constantly in the elements. The battery connections are reasonable for some spray and rain in use, but not so much I'd expect zero water on the connections if under constant pressure from weather.

It occurs to me you have an option to test your theory of how well you might like the overall plan. What you could do is figure out the shaft length you expect to need on a new dingy of choice. Hold off on the dink but pull the trigger on the motor. Remove the gas engine, and try out the current dink with the new electric motor. If it works as you want it to, you can proceed with the new dink. If not, you have less invested and since electric motors are hard to come by I'd suspect you could resell easily with small loss. Try the plan, with downside risks covered.

Thanks FWT. Good info on the electric motor I had not considered. Trying the electric on my current dink is a good idea. Just a lot of work and I just wonder what I will do with the heavy 15 HP Yamaha in the process. Once it's off I would like to be done with it. I've already had a few back operations and thus one of the reasons to go smaller.

 

[mvweebles]

The Aluminum RIBs are designed for planing and thus a bigger outboard. If you're only planning on a small outboard, maybe consider a non-RIB design such as a roll-up or slat floor. Would save a fair amount of money, and they are considerably lighter.

Before getting my pipe davit, I uses my boom to launch a very heavy fiberglass bottom RIB which was a PITA. From a previous boat, I had a cheap PVC 8-foot roll-up and a 3.3hp Mercury OB. I kept the dink deflated and stored under cover. Was pretty easy to inflate and launch, and the OB was something like 28 lbs. PVC was junk, but concept worked well. Easier than launching my regular RIB

Peter

 

[Pat T]

Decisions, decisions! You guys have given me a lot to consider and ponder. Well, I asked for it and you all didn't disappoint.

 

[Duffy 35]

I just went thru a similar analysis. I wanted something light and durable, and I could row. I went with a hard bottom boat. A Point Defiance 12 foot. It should last forever. Not as much stability as the RIBS; but no air chambers or fabric that degrade over time.

I also wanted a light engine. I went with the Torqeedo 1102. The fact that there are three parts to it make it very easy to get on the boat. I cruise around at 3.7 knots. Plenty fast for me. They have a BT app that shows range. That has been good too. With a full charge at 3.5+ knots I get 25 miles of range. at 4.5 knots the range is probably around 12 nM. It all depends on how you use your dinghy. The Torqeedo is silent which is super nice. Very minimal maintenance.

 

[rslifkin]

We ended up with a 12 foot aluminum skiff in our case. Haven't put an outboard on it yet, but when we do, it should plane 2 adults with a 6hp. It carries its full rated load quite well, rows fairly well (although not as well as a purpose-built rowboat), it was cheap, and at 150 lbs it's not unmanageably heavy either. It's also stable enough that stepping in and out isn't a problem (although it'll move around more than a RIB).

It's likely too big for most to carry on deck, however. And stability of hard dinghies becomes a real challenge as you go smaller, plus many of the hard dinghy options out there don't plane so you're limited to going slow.

 

[Amadeus]

As a counterpoint we just bought a Williams 325 turbojet that will stow on an extendable track and wheel system in the stern garage of an Elling E6 we pick up at the end of the month in the Netherlands.

 

[Captain DJ]

I found our off-center console Novurania (12'-8") rated up to 5 people with 40 hp Yamaha 2-stroke to be too heavy for my davit system so we took it back to Mexico to use in the Sea of Cortez. We found a used 9.5 ft AB aluminum hulled hypalon RIB and almost new 6 hp (4-stroke) Tohatsu on Craigslist for $1700. It came with nice oars, new glue on oar locks, a great lifting rig, an extra fuel tank, pump, spare impeller & sparkplug. Spent a week reconditioning it and we are SUPER happy with it for our 34 ft Cheoy Lee Pilothouse Trawler. It with fuel & motor is around 240-270 lbs. and is lifted easily without winch & davit system. Installed new chocks for when we carry the AB on the boat deck. May get around to repainting it with special Hypalon paint next season. All new bottom paint and nonskid & rubber (elastomeric) were applied to the inside and that looks almost new.

 

[Mac2]

Just bought a takacat and put the epropulsion on it. The takacat weighs about 70 lbs (wanted to be able to carry it above the tide line). The epropulsion pushes this boat to about 5 knots with me and my wife (around 350 lbs). One of the main reasons I chose the epropulsion over others, was the floating battery-I assume this means it will hold up better out in the rain as well. When you remove the battery, the only considerations you have for the lower unit sitting out in the elements, is the electric cable end/opening, which is easily covered for protection. I would highly recommend the storage bag for the battery. It is a padded backpack with a pocket. When I get to my destination, I put the battery (which is several hundred dollars) in the backpack and take it with me. You can secure/lock the motor mount bolts like any other outboard.

 

[Jairaj Chugh]

Just bought a takacat and put the epropulsion on it. The takacat weighs about 70 lbs (wanted to be able to carry it above the tide line). The epropulsion pushes this boat to about 5 knots with me and my wife (around 350 lbs). One of the main reasons I chose the epropulsion over others, was the floating battery-I assume this means it will hold up better out in the rain as well. When you remove the battery, the only considerations you have for the lower unit sitting out in the elements, is the electric cable end/opening, which is easily covered for protection. I would highly recommend the storage bag for the battery. It is a padded backpack with a pocket. When I get to my destination, I put the battery (which is several hundred dollars) in the backpack and take it with me. You can secure/lock the motor mount bolts like any other outboard.

What shaft length did you get on the ePropulsion with the Takacat?

 

[Mac2]

What shaft length did you get on the ePropulsion with the Takacat?

It is the short shaft. The extra short shaft would probably be the perfect fit, but I wanted a little more flexibility for use with other boats. As slow as the boat goes, I don't think I would get that much more speed with the shorter shaft.

 

[Nick14]

I just went thru a similar analysis. I wanted something light and durable, and I could row. I went with a hard bottom boat. A Point Defiance 12 foot. It should last forever. Not as much stability as the RIBS; but no air chambers or fabric that degrade over time.

I also wanted a light engine. I went with the Torqeedo 1102. The fact that there are three parts to it make it very easy to get on the boat. I cruise around at 3.7 knots. Plenty fast for me. They have a BT app that shows range. That has been good too. With a full charge at 3.5+ knots I get 25 miles of range. at 4.5 knots the range is probably around 12 nM. It all depends on how you use your dinghy. The Torqeedo is silent which is super nice. Very minimal maintenance.

I'm going through a similar thought process. I also would like something light, durable, and rowable. The Whaly and Polycraft meet the first two criteria, and barely the last one. It seems like they can be 'rowed', but maybe not very well or for very long distances. I too plan to go with a battery outboard.

I've known about (and admired) Gig Harbor dinghies for a long time. The big question with it for me is stability. How do you find getting in and out of it, launching from your boat?

My concern is, the first time the Admiral goes into the water when trying to get into a dinghy, will be the last time she uses a dinghy.

Also, why did you chose the Torqueedo vs. the e-Propulsion?

Thank you!