Folks, i notice a crack in the top of this figerglass "hump" where I guess the shaft enters the shaft log--not sure the purpose of the hump, or if the crack is something to be concerned about. Also, can you explain this set up? is this a dripless setup? pics. here
stuffing box
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SteveK
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That crack would concern me as well. The shaft tube should not be affected, but I would show pictures to qualified tech for opinion. My guess is the shaft tube is moving (causing the crack) due to an out of alignment of the shaft.
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Some pictures from more of a distance showing more of the shaft and more of the stuffing box. I assume there's a bulkhead aft of the squarish box? The shaft log is likely a round pipe or tube. Depending on age it's either bronze or stainless; or fiberglass.
It's hard to tell from the pictures what the cracked piece's function in life is, at least I'm not sure.
Peter
It's hard to tell from the pictures what the cracked piece's function in life is, at least I'm not sure.
Peter
RedRascal
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It looks like a block that was fiber glassed in to accept the stuffing box. However the current configuration looks like the actual stuff box and packing gland is forward of the rubber tube based on pic "Stuff4". A better picture with the flash is needed to see what's in front of the rubber tube. Now back to the "block", I am guessing it consists of layers of wood to make it that thick and crack. Doubtful a solid block would crack like that. As a test you could try driving some screw into it and see if that will close up the crack. The screws may help identify if there is solid wood or rotten wood. It wouldn't hurt to have some underwater epoxy handy if you happen to find water. Can you thump on it to hear if it sounds hollow or not? I doubt the "bump" is hollow all the way up to the crack. It's definitely a concerning crack especially if the shaft log is comprised. Also it's hard to tell if the bump has glass on top or if it was just painted with gelcoat.
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I would try to draw the parts together by using clamps after painting down into the crack with epoxy. Then fill the crack with thickened epoxy. Clamp and try to draw it together and squeeze out some of the epoxy. Then add some screws to help hold it together. I wouldn’t trust the screws to draw it together since they may strip out under the load.
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Looks like wood under an inadequate layer of fiberglass is swelling from moisture intrusion.
There’s bolts or lags going into the wood from the bilge that could be the path of the water intrusion, or it could be coming from the underwater end.
Beyond that, a bent propeller and/or shaft, or bad alignment or worn mounts could be promoting the cracking.
I’d want to definitely identify the cause of the problem before initiating any more than temporary repairs.
There’s bolts or lags going into the wood from the bilge that could be the path of the water intrusion, or it could be coming from the underwater end.
Beyond that, a bent propeller and/or shaft, or bad alignment or worn mounts could be promoting the cracking.
I’d want to definitely identify the cause of the problem before initiating any more than temporary repairs.
Andiamo2018
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I understand being concerned. But if it is a dry clean crack I would follow the suggestions already made; epoxy and clamp it together and put in some screws with pilot holes. I would also repaint it so that if it cracks again you can see it easily.
O C Diver
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The stuffing box for the rudder of my Bruno and Stillman was constructed in that manner with layers of plywood. When the fiberglass cracked (in the boatyard over the winter), it was a relatively simple project to remove it and build a solid fiberglass elevation off the hull.
In your situation, if you can't replace it with a shaft log/ cutlass bearing, another block could be built out of laminated Coosa board.
Ted
In your situation, if you can't replace it with a shaft log/ cutlass bearing, another block could be built out of laminated Coosa board.
Ted
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So no water intrusion that I can see. The crack appears to be shallow, and basically just across the top--I was able to sand off one edge with just some light scuffing. The hump/bock does appear to be glass, not paint over wood--as I say, no wood visible, but I do see some fiber shreds. It feels/sounds rock-solid. I did notice that when I shift between reverse and forward while docked at idle, it seems a bit noiser one way--can't recall which, and not sure about that, but will check again. If that is the case, could it suggest a shaft out of allignment? I will try to shift gears and watch that block in reverse and forward and see if it appears to impact the block. I'm thinking bolt- and- nut reinforcement w/ some nice size SS washers either end might be a good idea, so long as I can be sure I'm drilling through wood, and not somehow compromising a water seal... Also wondering if crack correlates with depth of screws holding that shaft plat on? if so, it could be water wicking up? It does appear dry though...
Also, it appears that that the shaft is cooled by a seprate water line, and does not rely on water seeping through the shaft log? Which would means the shaft is sealed in the log to the outside? Interesting...
Also, it appears that that the shaft is cooled by a seprate water line, and does not rely on water seeping through the shaft log? Which would means the shaft is sealed in the log to the outside? Interesting...
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SteveK
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That separate water line cools the shaft and also allows a no drip system.
Start by running at dock in idle and watch shifting forward to reverse for movement.
Start by running at dock in idle and watch shifting forward to reverse for movement.
so you think normal vibration, or would that suggest something out of whack?
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I had something similar aft of my dripless stb shaft log. I began to notice a bit of corrosion around the bolts where the shaft exits the boat but not enough to concern me. When I took it to the yard to have my six cutlass bearings replaced, the yard indicated that the area needed to be rebuilt. That engine was rebuilt before my time so I wondered if that somehow cracked the area supporting the cutlass bearing.
SteveK
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Something out of whack.
Read THIS THREAD-Engine Alignment See the videos especially #1 & #15
Read THIS THREAD-Engine Alignment See the videos especially #1 & #15
