Starlink Question

[Jklotz]

I bought a new Gen 3 Starlink dish for the boat. Old owner had a Gen 2 system that he took with him. He left the cable, which is installed very well and caulked in. The cable is different between the two. Old one has what looks to be a USB connector, whereas the new one has what appears to be an RJ45. It's going to be a real pain to tear that old cable out and install a new one, not to mention the plug for the new gen 3 is bigger, so it would involve some widening/drilling of the existing holes. It would be so much easier if I could find an adapter and just use the existing cable. Does anybody know if this is possible?

 

[socalrider]

Hmm... maybe there's a starlink forum that would have the answer to this? Or maybe you could return your gen3 and buy a used gen2?

 

[TodOneD]

Here is what Google's AI had to say. No idea if this is accurate, but it might be useful and you could attempt to verify the claims.

Unfortunately, there is no direct adapter officially provided by Starlink to use a Generation 2 cable with a Generation 3 system. The connectors are different.

Here's why and what your options are:

• Different Connectors: Starlink Generation 2 uses a proprietary connector that carries both power and data. Generation 3 uses standard RJ45 Ethernet connectors for data and a separate power cable. These are not compatible.
• Pinout Differences: Even if you were to try and wire something yourself, the internal wiring (pinout) for power and data transmission is different between the generations, making a simple physical adapter ineffective and potentially damaging to your equipment.

Your Options:

1. Use the Generation 3 Cable: The most straightforward and recommended solution is to use the cable that comes with your Starlink Generation 3 system.
2. Purchase a Compatible Cable: If the Generation 3 cable isn't the right length, you'll need to purchase a Generation 3 compatible cable of the desired length. These are available directly from Starlink and some third-party retailers. Look for cables specifically listed as compatible with "Starlink Generation 3".
3. DIY with Caution (Advanced Users): As mentioned in some online forums, technically skilled users might attempt to cut and re-crimp the Gen 2 cable with RJ45 connectors on the router end and potentially a waterproof RJ45 connection on the dish end, along with a separate power solution for the Gen 3 dish. However, this is highly discouraged as it's complex, voids any warranty, and carries a significant risk of damaging your equipment if not done correctly. It would also require sourcing a separate power supply for the Gen 3 dish, as the Gen 2 cable doesn't carry power in the same way.

 

[tiltrider1]

You can always cut the plug off and splice a new plug on. It is just a Cat 6 wire.

My recommendation is to splice new plugs on both Ends of the cable. This way you know you have correctly matched up all the individual wires.

You can order a Cat6 splicing kit from amazon.

 

[Sababa]

You can always cut the plug off and splice a new plug on. It is just a Cat 6 wire.

My recommendation is to splice new plugs on both Ends of the cable. This way you know you have correctly matched up all the individual wires.

You can order a Cat6 splicing kit from amazon.

What he said.

 

[tiltrider1]

In case I wasn’t clear. Take the cable that came with your new starlink. Cut both plugs off of it and splice them on to the existing old style cable.

 

[tpbrady]

There are several options. The Gen 3 interface 1 Gbps and any compromise in the integrity of the cable could result in that interface dropping back to 100 Mbps or 1/10 the maximum. Since Starlink generally provides downloads greater than 100 Mbps, cutting the cable and putting on new connectors (I recommend using shielded Cat 6 connectors). The Gen 2 cable uses larger conductors by then your typical Ethernet cable, so installing a good quality connector on that cable is a pain. The other problem is the outside connector won’t have the weather proof seal of the factory connector so you will to consider how to resolve that. One possible solution is to use 2 Ethernet shielded splice blocks on either end of the cable. The outside one would have to be in an area protected from the elements. The AI comments about pinouts is not correct to my knowledge. Using splice blocks you just match the colors. This looks like a suitable one on Amazon. You also will need a 110 punch down tool also available on Amazon. Amazon.com

 

[SteveK]

I would run the GEN3 supplied wire. Perhaps you could find a different location for the router.

 

[Jklotz]

I would run the GEN3 supplied wire. Perhaps you could find a different location for the router.

After 3 or 4 hours of research, I'm coming to the conclusion you are correct. I was hoping it wouldn't be major surgery. Not so sure that is going to be a possibility at this point.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Unless you need the gen 3 performance purchase gen 2 hardware used and you're good to go. Gen 2 is easy to find used.

 

[boomerang]

I would do it right and run a new cable. How hard can it be? When I was in the business ,the hardest part of a new installation was deciding where/how to run wires and cables. You've already got that figured out for you plus you could maybe use the Gen2 cable as a pull for the new one.

 

[Datenight]

After 3 or 4 hours of research, I'm coming to the conclusion you are correct. I was hoping it wouldn't be major surgery. Not so sure that is going to be a possibility at this point.

Jim,

I ran the cable on our NP 45 last fall. Going to the boat today. Will post some photos of where I located the router and how I ran the cable.

Rob

 

[ranger58sb]

Are there not maybe any adapters on the market?

I've seen USB-to-RJ45, older video to HDMI, SD cards to USB, etc... maybe there's a gen2 to gen3 adapter you could use at each end of the existing cable?

-Chris

 

[Jklotz]

Jim,

I ran the cable on our NP 45 last fall. Going to the boat today. Will post some photos of where I located the router and how I ran the cable.

Rob

Awesome! Thanks Rob!

 

[Jklotz]

Are there not maybe any adapters on the market?

I've seen USB-to-RJ45, older video to HDMI, SD cards to USB, etc... maybe there's a gen2 to gen3 adapter you could use at each end of the existing cable?

-Chris

That's what I was hunting for. If such a thing exists, it's not labeled or marketed as such. What scares me is if the pin outs are not how they are supposed to be, I could end up sending power to the wrong place and damaging the equipment, so I've been told.

 

[SteveK]

Starlink Gen 2 cable cat 6 adapter was not available when I installed as Starlink made their cable ends different than anything on the market. I understand Gen 3 is a similar to others now.

 

[tiltrider1]

In my case there was no way to get the large starlink plugs to pass through the cable chase. Cutting the cable at the 2/3’s mark made it easy to case the cable and then I just respliced it.

 

[Datenight]

Starlink on Datenight, NP 4514.

Photo 4526 shows the router on the shelf behind the settee port side. You a see the wires go down into the cabinet under the shelf. Power wire plugs into the same receptacle as the TV. The data wire comes up in the window valance that guides the wood blinds, img 4527, 4528.

It then goes into the overhead. I had to pull the port panel down. They are held in place with Velcro. Photo 4531 shows the data wire coming up in the port fly bridge locker/ seat. I used a fish tape to get from the 6” screw out port in the aft overhead of the hardtop into the locker.

From the 6” port on the hardtop I used the fish tape again to get to the exit point on the hardtop img 4530. A cable clam makes it watertight. The antenna is flat mounted instead of the angle Starlink recommends. We have not had any issues with the flat mount.

Rob

 

[Jklotz]

Starlink on Datenight, NP 4514.

Photo 4526 shows the router on the shelf behind the settee port side. You a see the wires go down into the cabinet under the shelf. Power wire plugs into the same receptacle as the TV. The data wire comes up in the window valance that guides the wood blinds, img 4527, 4528.

It then goes into the overhead. I had to pull the port panel down. They are held in place with Velcro. Photo 4531 shows the data wire coming up in the port fly bridge locker/ seat. I used a fish tape to get from the 6” screw out port in the aft overhead of the hardtop into the locker.

From the 6” port on the hardtop I used the fish tape again to get to the exit point on the hardtop img 4530. A cable clam makes it watertight. The antenna is flat mounted instead of the angle Starlink recommends. We have not had any issues with the flat mount.

Rob

Awesome! Thanks for the ideas!