Splicing chain?
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
psneeld
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HopCar
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What type and size of chain do you have? The links I know of are about as strong as proof coil or BBB chain. Link size might also be an issue with your windlass, but I do know of at least one guy who got away with using a link in G40 chain and it passed through his windlass fine. It was literally a weak link but it worked for him.
You can look up the strength of your chain and the strength of the link and make your decision. You’ll want to use a rivet style link as shown at the bottom of psneeld’s photo.
If the strength is acceptable, borrow the extra chain, join them and test it in your windlass.
You can look up the strength of your chain and the strength of the link and make your decision. You’ll want to use a rivet style link as shown at the bottom of psneeld’s photo.
If the strength is acceptable, borrow the extra chain, join them and test it in your windlass.
I should have mentioned this is all proof coil not g4.
We expect to do erie canal/1000 is/rideau/richleau/champlain/hudson loop next year. Then possibly icw to FL and back to ct.
Not really expedition cruises. Just like a solid setup.
Ill look into the rivet links.
--kevin
We expect to do erie canal/1000 is/rideau/richleau/champlain/hudson loop next year. Then possibly icw to FL and back to ct.
Not really expedition cruises. Just like a solid setup.
Ill look into the rivet links.
--kevin
psneeld
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I said many TFers worry too much.... they think in THEIR terms...not how some of the rest of us boat.
Space X is launching a Falcon 9 rocket on it's 17th mission soon. Most space agencies are afraid to use a rocket twice. Different stroke for different folks.
Space X is launching a Falcon 9 rocket on it's 17th mission soon. Most space agencies are afraid to use a rocket twice. Different stroke for different folks.
Based on my research a couple years ago, I used carbon steel C-links to attach my 3 different sizes of chain together. As they say in the info linked below, it is important to properly pin them together. I did my best, but still worried a bit (as in, "should I have had a professional do it?"). However, we soon anchored and experienced 35 kt winds overnight and it all held together...
https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-knowledgebase/connecting-links/
https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-knowledgebase/connecting-links/
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Well, aren't you a charmer. No offense intended captain, but you asked for OPINIONS and your stipulation was "sleeping soundly". That is why I included your quote, and why my statement was prefaced with 'IMHO' (In My Humble Opinion).
If you had stated that Economy was your actual driving factor, then you would have gotten a different answer.
What you're really asking is for ringing endorsements about how a connecting shackle is the best, safest and most common solution for this conundrum.
My apologies, I don't like connecting shackles.
psneeld
Guru
Worrying is a TF byword.
If one reads enough, one would never boat if they were a worrier, if they did, their health would probably suffer.
Boating is done by many of the great unwashed...people with a fraction of the wisdom and/or experience of many TF member.
The go home every night because they don't do a lot of dangerous boating things. Those that do, rarely die but are shocked into the world that boating and NEVER having an issue is not something you get the experience for overnight or on internet forums.
I have the experience and don't do dangerous things like using substandard gear when trying to anchor in severe weather... well on the East Coast...if you pay attention just a tiny bit...you really don't have to. One can go to a marina hopefully if the possibility of severe weather is forecast.
So running around with spliced chain done correctly should hardly be a worry and also if never expected to hold in a major storm. Popup thunderstorms can occur but usually last less than what is really required to test you, your boat and its equipment. Probably millions of boaters prove that every summer. Thankfully millions probably make it to a safe harbor. Again, even when failure occur, they may result in boat damage or loss, but rarely a fatality, especially if people are prepared for that.
Please TFers, boating is simple if you keep it that way and never exceed you or your boat's limitations, if you don't..... start climbing the ladder of education and experience BEFORE you start boating in more demanding situations.
If one reads enough, one would never boat if they were a worrier, if they did, their health would probably suffer.
Boating is done by many of the great unwashed...people with a fraction of the wisdom and/or experience of many TF member.
The go home every night because they don't do a lot of dangerous boating things. Those that do, rarely die but are shocked into the world that boating and NEVER having an issue is not something you get the experience for overnight or on internet forums.
I have the experience and don't do dangerous things like using substandard gear when trying to anchor in severe weather... well on the East Coast...if you pay attention just a tiny bit...you really don't have to. One can go to a marina hopefully if the possibility of severe weather is forecast.
So running around with spliced chain done correctly should hardly be a worry and also if never expected to hold in a major storm. Popup thunderstorms can occur but usually last less than what is really required to test you, your boat and its equipment. Probably millions of boaters prove that every summer. Thankfully millions probably make it to a safe harbor. Again, even when failure occur, they may result in boat damage or loss, but rarely a fatality, especially if people are prepared for that.
Please TFers, boating is simple if you keep it that way and never exceed you or your boat's limitations, if you don't..... start climbing the ladder of education and experience BEFORE you start boating in more demanding situations.
Northern Spy
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Connecting links with proof coil chain are suitable.
I'd personally buy a Crosby, and stay away from offshore links. If you don't have a windlass, you can buy connecting links stronger than the chain.
If it helps, ships use connecting links every shot of chain (90'). They will turn it around or replace shots as required.
I'd personally buy a Crosby, and stay away from offshore links. If you don't have a windlass, you can buy connecting links stronger than the chain.
If it helps, ships use connecting links every shot of chain (90'). They will turn it around or replace shots as required.
Nick F
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Since we are on the subject of connecting links, can anyone give tips on properly peening the pins on the C-link type connector?
Do you heat the connector to make it more ductile?
What kind of punch works best?
Do you heat the connector to make it more ductile?
What kind of punch works best?
psneeld
Guru
Here's some pro advice...
https://paducahrigging.com/blog/hel...ecting,8 8. Repeat the Process ... More items
https://paducahrigging.com/blog/hel...ecting,8 8. Repeat the Process ... More items
Excellent!
tiltrider1
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I like to use a lot of colored zip ties on the C linK. While it only gives marginal protection from the C link coming apart, it makes the link stanD out which means it gets inspected on a more regular basis.
psneeld
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on the second one above. do those pins need to be punched?
i haven't punch mine yet
I would peen them with a ball PEEN hammer as shown in the post #13 link above.
Capt Ray
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Northern Spy
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If you read the Crosby manual, it says to peen them.
You can tell the good quality from the poor quality the moment you go to peen them. The Crosby ones are a bugger to peen as they are forged and heat treated. I do it on a concrete float with a thick chunk of steel as an anvil.
If they peen easy, don't use it. It's probably cast.
Crosby has had many issues with counterfeiting in the past. At least with their shackles. We inspected every one of them prior to use in rigging service
You can tell the good quality from the poor quality the moment you go to peen them. The Crosby ones are a bugger to peen as they are forged and heat treated. I do it on a concrete float with a thick chunk of steel as an anvil.
If they peen easy, don't use it. It's probably cast.
Crosby has had many issues with counterfeiting in the past. At least with their shackles. We inspected every one of them prior to use in rigging service
Capt Ray
Senior Member
Actually, I wouldn't toss the old chain. Simply use it for my back up storm or stern system.
captmikem
Veteran Member
Every ship you see has many splices in it's chain. Chain is sold in 90 ft length known as a "Shot" and it is spliced with what is called a shackle, which is a link that is assembeled with a pin and a piece of lead peened into the hole the pin goes in.
When the order is given to drop the anchor, it is given in shots "Give me three shots at the water", each shot is rang out on a bell or nowadays with a handheld to the bridge.
Same when heaving, as each shackle comes up to the wildcat the number is rung out on the bell.
Ships usually carry 7 shot, some carry more, some less.
M
YukonRon
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I found this interesting article on the subject:
C-links – Cox Engineering
C-links – Cox Engineering
Southern Boater
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Nick F
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Thanks for this, but unfortunately it seems not to deal with the act of mushing over the ends of the pins, but rather describes a general surface peening of the the entire link to "improve" its metallurgical qualities.
I certainly would not try to target the "pins" directly with a hammer - my aim is not that good. For sure I will be using a punch of some sort held against the pin and hitting the punch with the hammer.
psneeld
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You are right that was a bit weak on the actual peening to "make" the link.
But everything I have read says peening with hammer, never mentioning a punch. Aim is only sorta important as long as the pins mushroom.
HopCar
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BeeJay
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The correct tool for the job is a rivet snap or rivet set and anvil. Someone like Aircraft Spruce will have them. But overkill for this because as others have said the rivets aren’t resisting longitudinal loads they’re mainly in shear. I’m sure you will do ok with a punch………….or not (wink)
