Solar power project

[Delta Riverat]

No that would be controller to battery. Panel output would be 75 volts, 8.5 amps max.

 

[Delta Riverat]

I ordered up a Blue Sea 400A class T fuse holder (with cover) and a new fuse to replace that old one up there.

That didn't worry me as much as the junction box below so I opened it up to see what was inside. Glad I did, wire nuts. The box is plastic which is good, the cover is metal but screwed into plastic so that doesn't bother me either. When I pulled out the nuts to replace, one of the wires fell out so yeah, glad I did. Now all replaced with 10g Wago's and wires have crimped ferrules.

Removed the side panel by the helm and I have a good path from the fly to the helm and then down to the engine room for the 10g solar panel cable. The fly will have the usual solar cable/connector wiring and then go to terminal strip under fly helm and then 10g Anchor down to the engine room where the controller is.

Coming together nicely -

 

[BVrolyk]

I did the deed and ordered up the stuff.

Three 200W thin film panels, a 60A MPPT controller and some hardware, tools and extension cables. Halloween sale, 20% off -

Going on the fly Bimini, won't even see them. Going to use neo magnets on the panels (8 each) and series wire the set. Will add 20 pounds to the canvas and require no holes.

Once I figured out how to get them up there, the path was clear. Going to pull them over the top with strings with washers attached -

I love it when a plan comes together -

Just a small caution. I once had trouble figuring out why the boat's compass wasn't even close to accurate. I eventually found some high powered magnets being used to hold things, as you are proposing. Once I removed those, the compass started working correctly. Be sure to check your compass.

 

[luna]

A couple of concerns:

- Why are the conductor's lugs connected to the fuse mounting studs, not the proper studs?

- If those are mechanical barrel cinches to connect bare wire, replace the fuse holder.

- There should be a cover for the fuse holder. With a few thousand Amps on hand, it might prove useful. Otherwise it should be in an enclosure.

1) I dunno, boat came that way.
2) Not going to do that, gonna crimp a lug on the 6g wire and clamp it down on the allen screw end.
3) Dunno about the fuse holder cover, don't think it had one.

I ordered up a Blue Sea 400A class T fuse holder (with cover) and a new fuse to replace that old one up there.

Coming together nicely -

How things change.

I'm happy that you did not have to feel the heat, to see the light.

Good move.

 

[Delta Riverat]

The cover really didn't bother me too much. I was concerned about the box and wiring below. If the box was grounded, that would be much too close to the high current DC. During fixing the box I found the existing fuse holder made of aluminum. OK, there's another one. The decider was the cables on the fuse studs. I envisioned trying to change the fuse in rolling seas with the cables loose and me with a big wrench in my hand banging back and forth in the ER access doorway.

Figured it would be much better to just have to worry about the fuse and not the loose cables at the same time -

 

[Delta Riverat]

Busy little chase eh?

The 10g Anchor made it through easily though, didn't even need to pull it just pushed it through a hole in the engine room into the main electrical cabinet then through the lower helm enclosure and up the chase to the flybridge when the connection will be made to the panel cables.

 

[Delta Riverat]

New fuse holder and new fuse installed.

 

[SteveK]

Nice fuse, do think you should put a cover over to prevent an errant contact.

 

[J.T kearney]

New fuse holder and new fuse installed.

looks much better!!!! Now all you need is an appropriate fuse between the MPPT controller and your battery connection. I'm not a marine sparky ,but one size up from your MPPT controller max output. I'm not sure on the ABYC requirements on attaching directly to the T fuse block? You might want to put a least a couple wraps of red tape on your hot leads. Hopefully someone on the forum with more knowledge can help
Cheers J.T.

 

[Delta Riverat]

Don't worry, I have the cover too -

 

[Delta Riverat]

The controller is wired to the battery and the panel input up on the fly bridge but no panels yet.

Used my favorite terminal fuse again -

 

[Delta Riverat]

Stealth panels installed. Three 200 watt thin film flex on the fly Bimini. The throw the washers over and push with the Admiral pulling the strings worked well. Those magnets are really strong. One can only hope strong enough -

The blue discs are the steel plates under the magnets. You can see the panel leads over the side. Gonna be a series connect so you won't see much more except the return wire from the stern.

Hopefully they don't blow off the top -

 

[BruceK]

Maybe take it out in a full gale and report back. Well, not really... I put off fitting flexible panels, the trimmers felt that although the covers were still serviceable, fitting snaps or toggles was too risky for fragile old covers. I`m interested in how it goes, where did you get the magnets?

 

[Delta Riverat]

I used these

 

[Delta Riverat]

It is wired and operational. Under the roof it was outputting a whole watt, 16 volts and 60 mA -

Pretty stealthy eh? Except for the wires along the frame and the blue disks one would never suspect 600 watts of solar.

Looking forward to taking it out of the garage to see the real story.

 

[BruceK]

My previous boat with a modest solar array was in a shed for 6 weeks . It had some glass roof panels, oddly enough it was the old Halvorsen factory, about 6 construction lines with railway launchways for each. Being redeveloped into luxury housing once they overcome the serious site pollution. Long and short, batts were surprisingly well charged.

 

[Delta Riverat]

Yesterday was the sun test, a little 2 hour run up the river and back. Max current was 34 amps to the batteries and a total charge of 52 amp-hours. I'm pleased. With the panels rated at 600 watts (with perfect sun) the max possible current would be about 40 amps so 34 real life amps is pretty good me thinks.

 

[Portage_Bay]

Congratulations! I recall you used BougeRV flexible panels? I am also so your success is encouraging. I do want to ask how you made up the connections? I used the MC4 connectors. Easy stuff to work with and it does seem they are watertight. But they're bulky and unsightly. I'm thinking of cutting them off and doing butt connectors with adhesive shrink over. Maybe two layers. Bouge says using anything other than their MC4 connectors will void the warranty. I need to decide if I really care about that.

Yesterday was the sun test, a little 2 hour run up the river and back. Max current was 34 amps to the batteries and a total charge of 52 amp-hours. I'm pleased. With the panels rated at 600 watts (with perfect sun) the max possible current would be about 40 amps so 34 real life amps is pretty good me thinks.

 

[Delta Riverat]

Yeah, just used the stock connectors. On a series hookup they're not that bad as you can see. Got the Bouge 20 ft, 10G extension kit to get it wired to a terminal block under the fly bridge. These are the 200 watt CIGS panels only six pounds each, 3 wired in series.

 

[JGORT]

GOOD EVENING FOLKS I HAVE BEEN READING THROUGH YOUR POSTS AND I AM VERY INTERESTED IN INSTALLING SOLAR SYSTEM ON OUR 41 FT. TRAWLER WE HAVE A PRETTY LARGE HARDTOP AREA OVER OUR SUNDECK WHICH IS WERE WE WOULD MOST LIKELY MOUNT OUR PANNELS. I WOULD BE VERY INTERESTED IN SOME INPUT AS TOWARDS WHAT WOULD WE NEED. THIS IS A FUTURE PROJECT THAT WE ARE INTERESTED IN DOING.
PLEASE ADVISE. SEND PICTURES, IDEAS, AND DRAWINGS IF YOU COULD FOR FURTHER REVIEW.
THANK YOU
JOE

 

[Portage_Bay]

Yeah, just used the stock connectors. On a series hookup they're not that bad as you can see. Got the Bouge 20 ft, 10G extension kit to get it wired to a terminal block under the fly bridge. These are the 200 watt CIGS panels only six pounds each, 3 wired in series.

Your system is neater and simpler than mine. I have 2 Arch 100 WATT panels and 1 Arch 200 WATT Panel. Chosen in ignorance to best utilize the area on top of the wheel house. Education by the more knowledgeable TF members led me to wire the 2 100s in parallel. Then those in series with the 200. Needed 2 Y connectors and a bunch of jumpers to string it all together. Kind of a mess. Knowing what I do now I'd have chosen a different path.

Another problem is the Arch panels have "stainless" grommets on the perimeter that are already showing rust streaks. Wish I'd paid the small premium for the Cigs panels they don't have grommets.

Ain't education wonderful?

 

[Portage_Bay]

GOOD EVENING FOLKS I HAVE BEEN READING THROUGH YOUR POSTS AND I AM VERY INTERESTED IN INSTALLING SOLAR SYSTEM ON OUR 41 FT. TRAWLER WE HAVE A PRETTY LARGE HARDTOP AREA OVER OUR SUNDECK WHICH IS WERE WE WOULD MOST LIKELY MOUNT OUR PANNELS. I WOULD BE VERY INTERESTED IN SOME INPUT AS TOWARDS WHAT WOULD WE NEED. THIS IS A FUTURE PROJECT THAT WE ARE INTERESTED IN DOING.
PLEASE ADVISE. SEND PICTURES, IDEAS, AND DRAWINGS IF YOU COULD FOR FURTHER REVIEW.
THANK YOU
JOE

Measures the area then find panels to fit. If you can go with rigid panels. They are less expensive than flexible and have a longer life span. The biggest advantages to flexible is they are lighter, can conform to not flat surfaces and can be attached without hardware. Be sure those advantages clearly outweigh the cost and life span of rigid.

After my hard lessons learned try to stay with identical panels. If you can't each size panel would be best connected to it's own controller.

If your setup is like mine one of the hardest jobs is finding the path from the panels to the house bank and pulling those wires.

When you're ready for final design and before purchasing components and wires or running wires start a new thread and request input from the more knowledgeable TF members.

I just bought the panels, attached them to the pilot house roof then figured out the rest. Another instance of allyuogottadois.

 

[Delta Riverat]

Yeah, if you have a hard top then go with standard rigid panels. Most efficient and longest life. You have a good mounting place just need to work out panel sizes for best coverage and how to get the power to the controller(s) and batteries.

 

[Bmarler]

Check out these 485 watt panels from platt. The price is great, nice features. Half cell, bi facial, high power density. I’d seriously consider these if I was looking at new panels.

https://www.platt.com/p/2194538/qcells/solar-module-485w-156-cell-6-x-26-monocrystaline-half-cell/qclqpeakduoxlg1048