Slowing down free fall speed on Lewmar Pro Fish 1000

[SeaMoose]

Hello and Thanks for Reading
Before going cruising I upgraded my anchoring setup to all 3/8 chain, a 20 lb Rocna, new swivel, and a Lewmar 1000 ProFish windlass. Previously I had a short piece of chain and rope rode, and used the "Armstrong" method to deploy and retrieve the anchor.

Having a windlass to retrieve the anchor sure is nice, but the setup gives me fits in deployment, especially in shallow water (10') as the anchor and chain drop too fast, and I end up with a wad of chain on top of the anchor.

I've tried deploying, and backing up to try and untangle the mess and set the anchor with limited success - and it makes it difficult to pick an exact spot in a crowded anchorage or small canal.

The current strategy is to yank out 25 feet or so by hand, drop the anchor by hand and pay out the chain a handful at a time until it hits bottom, then back the boat up and pay out more chain by hand. Once we get 2:1 or so scope out I can go back to freefall mode.

Having never had all chain, or a modern new fangled windlass with this "free fall" feature I'm curious what others do.

Alan & Darina aboard Sea Moose
1976 34' MT D/C
https://adventuresofyorksieandme.com

Currently anchored off Olmsted Lock on the Great Loop

 

[Gdavid]

Hello and Thanks for Reading
Before going cruising I upgraded my anchoring setup to all 3/8 chain, a 20 lb Rocna, new swivel, and a Lewmar 1000 ProFish windlass. Previously I had a short piece of chain and rope rode, and used the "Armstrong" method to deploy and retrieve the anchor.

Having a windlass to retrieve the anchor sure is nice, but the setup gives me fits in deployment, especially in shallow water (10') as the anchor and chain drop too fast, and I end up with a wad of chain on top of the anchor.

I've tried deploying, and backing up to try and untangle the mess and set the anchor with limited success - and it makes it difficult to pick an exact spot in a crowded anchorage or small canal.

The current strategy is to yank out 25 feet or so by hand, drop the anchor by hand and pay out the chain a handful at a time until it hits bottom, then back the boat up and pay out more chain by hand. Once we get 2:1 or so scope out I can go back to freefall mode.

Having never had all chain, or a modern new fangled windlass with this "free fall" feature I'm curious what others do.

Alan & Darina aboard Sea Moose
1976 34' MT D/C
https://adventuresofyorksieandme.com

Currently anchored off Olmsted Lock on the Great Loop

The free fall function is optional, I have the same windlass and always use it in the power up and power down mode. I don't think the instructions are very clear but read it a couple times, pages 10 and 11 you will see how it works. You want what the manual refers to as the plunger to be flush, not sticking out where it will catch on the housing and allow the clutch to release.

https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414 iss1.pdf

 

[jleonard]

I never had a problem with all chain and a 35 Danforth. It always set quickly even if the chain piled on top of it.
But I had a different windlass.

 

[Gdavid]

Prior to lowering the anchor next time, press the plunger in as far as you can, you may need a tool to push it further than your finger can get it, you should feel a click and it will stay in place. The "round piece" that is between the fish tails is spring loaded and this is what retains the plunger. The plunger will stay flush and you will stay in power up and power down mode unless you pull out on this "round piece".

I don't know what they call what I have called the "round piece" but it is part #13 on page 14 of the manual.

 

[Drako]

you may need a tool to push it further than your finger can get it

That tool comes with the windlass, it's basically a wrench/lever, but there's a metal bit sticking out which is what you use to push in the plunger.