Simpson Lawrence Horizon 1500 Pulling Hard

[Dahmnit]

I've had my Ocean Alexander Europa 40 since May, so I am very new to this bigger boat stuff.
My anchor windlass, as listed above, starts retrieval at full speed, but after about three seconds it begins to slow and amp draw goes up. If I keep retrieving it will blow the 60 A breaker, which is the size recommended in the manual. I have the manual (from 1978!) and I followed the disassembly instructions carefully. The capstan side came apart relatively easily, and I cleaned and greased all the gear cluster and main drive shaft. It definitely needed it.
When I attempted to remove the gypsy side of things, the clutch release nut removed easily and the gypsy come off. I carefully set the gypsy and carrier aside and then went to the next step: remove the bolt from the main shaft. This stainless bolt has a round head, in the center of which is a 7mm hex drive. This bolt is supposed to be loose enough to move one turn reverse thread out or in when manually cranking up the chain. It would not move, and obviously the 7mm hex wrench would bend or snap before the stainless bolt moved.
Put everything back together, since I was halfway between Port Townsend, WA, and Prince Rupert when this happened, and hoped what I had done would help. It did, but only to allow 5-8 seconds of pull before lugging down. I retrieved the anchor the two times I had to do it, once in a vicious wind, fortunately offshore, by running the windlass until it slowed, stopping, waiting 15-30 seconds, bringing up another two or more feet, waiting...you get it. It certainly beat doing it by hand crank, which I have. The longer I waited, the more chain I'd get in.
I'm thinking that if the bolt, which has a cone on the end, is over tightened, it may be the cause. Next project is getting the bolt out.

 

[l00smarble]

Tell us about the batteries. Sounds like voltage drop. What batteries are being used? How old? How long is the circuit round trip? Lets see photos of the heavy DC connections at batteries, solenoid pack, and windlass motor.

If you can put a voltmeter directly on the battery and run the windlass with load. Watch the voltage and see what it does when it "bogs down."

 

[Bmarler]

It sounds like your pulling the boat forward with the windlass. Have you tried bumping the boat forward with the engine?

 

[Jeff F]

Tell us about the batteries. Sounds like voltage drop. What batteries are being used? How old? How long is the circuit round trip? Lets see photos of the heavy DC connections at batteries, solenoid pack, and windlass motor.

That's my first thought. It's more likely an issue with the power supply than the windlass.

 

[Bmarler]

I looked at the manual for your windlass, and I see the bolt in question. I would start hitting that with penetrating oil regularly. Might be a good idea to get a 7mm Allen head that fits a 3/8 drive ratchet so you get better leverage. A small electric impact driver would be a good choice as well. Don’t forget it’s left hand threads. After you manage to break it loose the t handle key should be able to work it normally.
I don’t think that’s the source of the bogging down problem, but it should be freed up so you can disassemble and lubricate things properly.

 

[WillieC2]

“Don’t forget it’s a left hand thread”

A rather salient point…

Reminds me of my high school buddy’s mid ‘60s Pontiac. It had rumbling front wheel bearings which I knew how to replace. After busting the third lug stud off, my dad pointed out that the “L” stamped into the end of the lug stud…

 

[Comodave]

Tell us about the batteries. Sounds like voltage drop. What batteries are being used? How old? How long is the circuit round trip? Lets see photos of the heavy DC connections at batteries, solenoid pack, and windlass motor.

If you can put a voltmeter directly on the battery and run the windlass with load. Watch the voltage and see what it does when it "bogs down."

This is exactly where I would start. It is also the easiest thing to check. We need to know the voltage at the windlass when it is pulling hard. You need to measure the circuit length from the battery to the windlass and back to the battery. I would look for corrosion at every connection. Check that the connectors are crimped on well. Any of this sort of thing can cause a voltage drop. Also check the cable size, don’t assume it is large enough. The PO may have cheaped out on cable size and just lived with the problem. Maybe he didn’t anchor much. If all the electrical things check out ok then look for mechanical problems. The electrical is much easier to diagnose and probably more likely the issue.

 

[BruceK]

“Don’t forget it’s a left hand thread”

A rather salient point…

Reminds me of my high school buddy’s mid ‘60s Pontiac. It had rumbling front wheel bearings which I knew how to replace. After busting the third lug stud off, my dad pointed out that the “L” stamped into the end of the lug stud…

Older Alfa Romeos had left thread wheel nuts too. Bicycle pedals likewise. It`s so the operating force opposes self undoing. Trap for the unwary.

 

[Dahmnit]

Thank all of you for the ideas. Some I've already tried, the rest I'll pursue when I'm back to the slip to winterize in a couple weeks.
The winch worked fine, and then it didn't. It came to me connected to the house batteries, which were four 6V "golf cart". As is typical of Flooded Acid, there is no indication of the battery's capacity. One of the four had cooked out about an inch of electrolyte, so I refilled with distilled water and checked with hydrometer. That battery was not at the same level as the other three. I replaced the lead acid array with four 12v 100Ah LithiumFePO4. Plenty of power, but I believe the cable run is too long for the 2/0 cable. I plan to put two AGM 12v 100Ah in series in the battery box under the winch if all else checks out and the problem persists.
Interestingly, when hand cranking, ugh, the chain and anchor, it did a similar pattern. It would crank relatively easily for about four to five feet of chain, and then tighten up and become very hard to crank. Spraying WD-40 (hey, I was desperate) in and around the capstan and gypsy, it loosened up for about ten feet or so. I'm going to try to work the bolt loose, disassemble and lubricate, and see if that helps, or even heals, the problem. If not, I will put the AGM batteries under the winch, and then get a charging circuit to them. The existing 2/0 from the engine room to the winch should serve fine for the charge. I have an EE in the family, and he's working out the details for charging both lithium and AGM from the feed from the 150A alternator. (The main engine has two alternators.)
(I have found that Starlink is absolutely awesome when traveling, but it does require about 3-20 Amps 120VAC while in use. That could be why my batteries did not have the charge necessary for operating the winch. To provide 120VAC 3A requires the inverter to pull 30A out of the 12V house system. A solar charging system is in the works.)

 

[WillieC2]

While I understand desperation and WD-40, I am leery of applying more power to something that is mechanically stuck. At least with hand power you can quickly stop. Applying fresh juice from new batteries can really do some damage. (But you already know this. Careful.)

 

[Dahmnit]

Thanks. Fortunately I have a couple superb marine mechanics in the family who keep me on the straight and narrow with good advice. I have a plan to carefully work that hex drive reverse thread bolt loose. Their ideas were much better than mine. If it works, I’ll share.
Another problem has forced me to call in a marine electrician, so I’ll add the battery/voltage problem to hi$ li$t.

 

[Comodave]

Did you measure the voltage at the windlass when it is pulling?