Seeking Input on Seacock Failures & Titanium Upgrade Possibilities

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Hey everyone,

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time lately looking into seacock failures—particularly in bronze and composites—and, as we all know, a failed seacock is one of the quickest ways to end up in Davy Jones’ Locker. Since these components are critical to staying afloat, I think it might be time to consider some serious upgrades. I’m curious to hear your thoughts on the following:


1. Thoughts on Titanium Grade 5 Seacocks

  • I’ve been exploring the possibility of manufacturing seacocks and thru-hull assemblies out of Titanium Grade 5 (Ti64 – aerospace grade). My thinking is that bronze has remained the standard from a time when advanced metals like Ti64 weren’t practical to produce. Nowadays, with modern manufacturing, it’s actually quite feasible—yet old habits die hard.
  • Based on my research, Ti64 offers significant corrosion and galvanic resistance, potentially making it a “one-and-done” lifetime installation—especially important considering how critical these valves are for keeping a boat afloat.
  • I believe I could accomplish this at the existing (or possibly lower) price point of bronze seacocks.

2. Does anyone use Zerk grease fittings with Groco seacocks?

  • Is this a part of your regular maintenance routine, or would you prefer an improved, self-lubricating seal design?
  • Another major upgrade I’m considering is freeze resistance, so if you forget to winterize or face unexpectedly cold conditions, the seacock remains protected.
  • Any issues or complaints with current seacock designs in general?

3. What Other Critical Components Could Benefit From Titanium?

  • If you’ve experienced frustrations with bronze or stainless hardware (through-hulls, bolts, etc.) failing or corroding, I’d love to hear about them. Pictures are always welcome!
  • I have the capabilities and technology to work with Ti64 efficiently, so I’m exploring which parts might see the greatest benefit. In theory, I could produce these for a price comparable to bronze or stainless steel.

Ultimately, I’m looking to see if there’s enough interest and real-world demand for titanium seacocks (and possibly other marine hardware). I’d love to hear your feedback, experiences, or any issues you’ve encountered that might point to a better solution.

Thanks in advance for your insight—I’m looking forward to reading your thoughts!



-Josh
 

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I suppose it happens but in 60+ years boating I have never had any failures. Maybe you are looking for a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist, but it is your boat and money.
 
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The more recent plastic ones (last 30 years or so) seem pretty reliable, millions installed, lower failure rate than most things on a boat.

If you are set on Ti, why not grade 2? Less expensive, stronger than SS and as strong as bronze. The strength of grade 5 is unnecessary on a seacock.
 
Is this serious? The picture is of an ancient seacock design long since retired. Even with that, problem wasn't strength but functional design.

There's a difference between "old habits die hard" and "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Invent a seacock that doesn't need to be periodically exercised to keep it from sticking - a useful improvement that would extend the life of any seacock. But a stronger seacock? Might sell it to the military....

Peter
 
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It's a solution looking for a problem.

Years ago with planked boats, the hull failed before the seacocks because of lack of inspection, maintenance and replacement when necessary. Now with glass boats, the hull outlasts the seacocks if they are not inspected, maintained and replaced when necessary.

It is tough to beat the Groco 2 part flanged sea cock which allows replacement of the actual valve without hauling the boat or involving a diver.
 
As mentioned:
A solution looking for a problem.

Make a schedule of cycling all the seacocks once a month and you will exceed 99% of recreational boaters. This is like checking fire extinguishers before the fire starts.

Every haulout, remove the hose and lubricate the ball on each valve. Why would you not atleast inspect the seacocks at haulout? Have a problem? That's the time to fix or replace it!

Ted
 
I have never actually seen a seacock fail. I have seen them get stuck in the closed or open position due to a lack of maintenance. I’ve seen hose failure where it attaches to the seacock due to a lack of maintenance. What I haven’t seen is a closed seacock just fail and sink a boat.

Now I am sure it’s happened but it’s rare and there is probably a back story involved that is outside the norm.

I Have a 35 year old boat. I just replaced my first seacock. It was still functional, it was just too stiff for my liking and nothing I could think of would loosen it up. So, I replaced it with a new less than $100 bronze seacock.
 
With a bit over 60 years maintaining and sailing all manner of boats, I've only ever seen one sea-cock fail. It was because of a low current short from the power to the refrigeration system caused the bronze to dissolve into the water over the course of about 6 months. Fortunately, we were aboard and heard the hissing of the water entering the boat. Given that's the one failure, and I'm not convinced that Ti would have avoided it, I'd say this is not a problem that needs solving. There are plenty of other problems that are far worse.
 
How about titanium exhaust mixing elbows? Titanium keel bolts for sailboats? What would be the cost difference to make a fuel tank out of titanium?

There's definitely room for material improvements in the marine industry.
 
I don’t know what the sheer strength of titanium is. I know my father built some titanium impellers for jet drives used by the navy in salt water. He told me that while it solved his corrosion issues he ended up with worse problems.

Titanium is better than aluminum for vibration dampening. It’s slightly lighter than aluminum for strength to weight issues. Its heat properties are vastly superior to aluminum but I don’t see it being used much outside of bicycles and submarines. Aviation and race cars have pretty much replaced it with carbon fiber.
 
One problem with using grade 5 in high stress is the material is finicky about surface finish with respect to fatigue life. Get it wrong and it may fail at 1/3 the predicted strength.

For the keel bolts on my sailboat I used K500 Monel. As strong as Gr5Ti, as corrosion resistant, without the other issues. Weighs more, but who cares in a lead keel?
 
It's a solution looking for a problem.

Years ago with planked boats, the hull failed before the seacocks because of lack of inspection, maintenance and replacement when necessary. Now with glass boats, the hull outlasts the seacocks if they are not inspected, maintained and replaced when necessary.

It is tough to beat the Groco 2 part flanged sea cock which allows replacement of the actual valve without hauling the boat or involving a diver.
Maintaining the bonding system and preventing galvanic corrosion is also important for valve life.
 

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